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About yachtjim

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  1. It takes the exact same amount of time and effort (making label, packing box, taping it up and putting label on it) for a 20 cent part as it does for a $1000 part. Shipping in most cases actually gets cheaper with more expensive parts as the cost of shipping can be absorbed in the profit on the part. We give free shipping at my company for orders over $400. On a 20 cent screw where TT is making 6 cents they can't quite absorb the cost of shipping as easily. The cost of the box to send it to you is about 20 cents, the UPS charges are probably $6, the employee to process the order from the online system to the accounting system, order the part, receive the part, pack the part for you, make the label and ultimately give it to UPS is getting $2.50 handling for those efforts. Lets not forget the accounting that has to follow up this whole transaction. Make sense?
  2. I am in the boat biz too and have worked quite a bit with fiberglass. Like the guy above said, you can lay up 3 layers at once no problemo. Instead of using saran wrap over cardboard try using a piece of bendy formica. This already has a slick surface and will hold a curve perfectly. Go to home depot and find something slick and bendy to use for your mold instead of cardboard and saran wrap. You can put a mold release wax right on the slick surface then laminate your part. Some things you should know - First: most resins you buy are not U/V protected. This means it will break down in the sun. You specifically need to get UV protected resin when laminating a part that is not going to be painted. Second: grinding and sanding on carbon fiber will kill you if you don't wear a mask. It is very important to wear a mask and gloves and long sleeves when working with that stuff, the tiny fibers are very dangerous to your health.
  3. OK, I figured it out. The moron at B&E Motorsports in MD that rebuilt my engine (twice!) put a bad balancer shaft in my engine. The surface that the left side bearing runs on is actually grooved. In other words it has little "dips" in the exact position that every roller bearing is in. So as the shaft rotates it is able to wobble a little bit as the roller bearings fall into these dips. I wish I had not dropped off my engine to this guy last spring. $2800 later I am still having to re-do all the work he did and my bike has never been right since. Hopefully this is the last of his shoddy work I will need to repair. I just got finished replacing both balancer shaft bearings, and while inspecting the balancer shaft I noticed this. All the tips provided on this site for bearing replacement made it a breeze. I did not find an easy way to remove teh left side bearing, finally got it out using a lot of heat and found the right tool that would just barely catch the edge of the bearing race so I could bang it out from the right side. Freezing the new bearings overnight made them pop right in with little effort. Thanks for the tips! Hopefully the new balancer shaft will get rid of the noise!
  4. Great tip on the dremel idea. I'll try that today.
  5. That nut is my nemesis! Just last night I was stomping around my garage for the 15th time in 6 months all pissed off at that nut. I finally removed it by heating it up, putting needle nose pliers on it - each tip in one of those notches, then putting an adjustable wrench on the pliers as close to the nut as possible and trying to spin it. One I got it to move just a bit I could then put a flathead screwdriver on one of those notches from the front and banged it with a hammer to keep spinning it off. To hold the shaft from moving I put a socket and wrench on a little bolt near the bearing on the left side of the case, the shaft would rotate around and hit this which would prevent it from spinning. Took me three beers and ruined 3 sets of needle nose pliers. I get to re-assemble it today I have had the castle socket thing and a gear holder on order from TT for 5 months! What a crappy design for honda to do then not make the parts readily available. Anybody know a double secret source to get these parts from other than TT OEM?
  6. done da da done
  7. Thank you for the repost for those of us that are not the Post Police.
  8. Sounds like Leatt is just trying to protect their dealers, to allow them to make a little margin. What dealer doesn't like this. Leatt has no financial stake in what the dealers sell for as the dealer buys it from Leatt at wholesale. The dealer might make 5% or 50%, but Leatt still gets the same amount of money. In my industry some manufacturers do a great job of protecting their dealers, other manufacturers don't care and let the market run wild - then you end up with a bunch of fly by night retailers selling your product with shoddy customer service. Leatt, it seems to me, is really paying attention to their dealer network to make sure good dealers are representing their product. With a first class product like this I 'm glad to see they are maintaining control. I wish TT was selling them though, I would have gladly payed retail to get mine from TT, instead I got it from Leatt.
  9. Is there anything I can check in the valve area? Bearings, etc? Could a bearing on either end of the connecting rod make a noise if going bad? Maybe something is too tight near the cam?
  10. If there were 3 people on the track on a cold November weekend the owner clearly needs to reduce prices. Will he make more from 3 people paying the current price, or from 30 people paying half of the current price? Plus T-shirt sales and hotdogs an whatever else.
  11. I just tried adding 100 extra cc's of rotella to the tranny side, that didn't help anything.
  12. I have an '06 crf450r. Have not been on this site for a while because my bike has been broken all summer. I finally have it back together and there is still a noise coming from the head area, valves maybe? Some background - this spring the same noise started happening. Around the same time the water seal let go. The coolant system ran dry twice. Just very briefly each time, so the engine barely overheated, if at all. At the same time the balancer shaft let go - had a broken gear and damaged the inside of the cases. You can read my previous posts for even more background. Soooo..... Now all the bearings in the case have been replaced, I have new case halves, a new balancer gear/shaft, new water pump, and the engine starts on just a few kicks and runs great. I ran it around for just a few minutes tonight. Can you guys point me in the direction of what to start checking? It really sounds like it is coming from the top of the engine. The best way to describe the sound would be like a hundred empty soda cans being blown down a road. It is loud at idle, but either quiets down at higher rpms or is drowned out by the exhaust, can't tell. What can I check? Thanks for the help. I am getting desperate with this damn bike. Don't want to keep running with this sound if its going to cost me another $2500!
  13. heres a cool halfpipe (sorry if its already been done). Try holding the brake when coming down on the coping. -80,-a6,-bl,-a6 -7q,-7p,-80,-a6 -7f,-5m,-7q,-7p -73,-46,-7f,-5n -6k,-2m,-73,-46 -5s,-17,-6n,-2s -4m,4,-5s,-17 -45,j,-4n,4 -32,12,-45,j -1g,1i,-32,12 -27,1o,5s,24 -1c,-4d,1j,-4g -1g,1i,-5,1h -c,1h,g,1d 6,1i,1o,17 g,1d,1k,16 3s,-8,29,t 1k,16,28,s 1o,24,5e,1h 3e,5,44,-j 4g,-10,53,-20 5t,-3e,6e,-5f 4t,-1j,5t,-3e 5f,-2j,60,-3q 4n,v,61,-1k 61,-1k,4t,11 4t,11,6a,-20 6a,-20,58,13 3r,-6,4t,-1j 55,-q,46,15 46,15,5e,-v 5e,-v,4h,10 4h,10,5n,-18 7j,-hh,7j,-is 7j,-is,as,-j9 6m,-7n,6r,-ab 6r,-ab,bf,-ac 6d,-5b,6m,-7n 58,13,6j,-2a 6j,-2a,5m,q 5m,q,6r,-2f 6r,-2f,60,o 60,o,71,-2o 71,-2o,am,-2o as,-j9,ff,-k2 al,-2p,k6,-2p k6,-2p,ku,-2n k5,-2q,qs,-2q ku,-2n,lq,-2f lq,-2f,mm,-1u mm,-1u,na,-15 o7,-2q,mu,-1p o2,-1s,n9,-1t mn,-1u,nt,-2r na,-15,o2,d ne,-24,ot,-24 pn,-2p,nh,-m ob,-2r,oa,-2b oa,-2b,p6,-2a o2,-16,o2,-1s o9,-1l,o9,-1c o9,-1c,o9,-22 o2,-2n,o2,-19 o3,-17,oa,-1e oa,-1e,oa,-2p o2,d,oe,1h oe,1h,of,2k of,2k,of,41 of,41,og,4t og,4t,os,6g os,6g,p4,7e nl,-h,pu,-2o p4,7e,pa,86 pa,86,po,8v po,8v,qc,9k qc,9k,rg,ac rg,ac,si,au si,au,to,bc to,bc,v2,bo v2,bo,10l,c0 10l,c0,11u,bv 11h,c0,11l,bp 11l,bp,11q,bv 11q,bv,11u,bn 11u,bn,121,c0 121,c0,124,bn 124,bn,128,c1 128,c1,12d,bo 12d,bo,12d,c0 12d,c0,12j,bo 12j,bo,12j,c1 12j,c1,12r,bn 12r,bn,12s,c2 12s,c2,132,bq 132,bq,132,c4 132,c1,17i,bu 17i,bu,1o3,bu 1o3,bu,1pe,bc 1pe,bc,1qi,ak 1qi,ak,1qi,bv 1qg,am,1sb,9a 1qd,bm,204,bm 1sb,9a,1sb,d7 1s9,98,1u5,7j 1u5,7j,1u3,cs 204,bm,217,d4 217,d4,220,bl 220,bl,22s,d2 22s,d2,23m,bk 23m,bk,24a,d0 24a,d0,250,bi 250,bi,25i,cv 25i,cv,265,bj 265,bj,26v,cv 26v,cv,27s,bk 27s,bk,28i,cp 28i,cp,298,bh 298,bh,2at,ct 2as,cs,2en,cr 2ep,cr,2gk,be 2gk,be,2gb,be 2gb,be,2i3,cn 2i3,cn,2jg,bg 2jg,bg,2j7,bg 2j7,bg,2k5,cm 2k3,ck,2ko,d6 2ko,d6,2l5,de 2l5,de,2lr,dk 2lr,dk,2m5,dk 2nb,d2,2ou,db 2m5,dk,2mg,di 2mg,di,2ml,df 2ml,df,2mt,dc 2mt,dc,2nb,d2 2ou,db,2qe,da 2qe,da,2pk,db 2pk,db,32e,db 32d,d9,32a,f8 31v,eh,325,g8 331,e8,31q,f7 31q,f7,33o,gb 32q,fr,323,ev 323,ev,328,eb 328,eb,336,em 340,g1,32b,ea 325,g8,32r,f4 33f,dp,35o,el 33g,dr,331,eo 32b,ea,330,e7 345,g6,33l,fb 333,fh,356,g8 337,fp,33t,fc 33o,gb,33f,ge 33t,fc,364,h2 336,em,34o,fk 330,e7,351,gk 33k,fk,353,fa 353,fa,363,h0 33u,ea,346,g4 34n,f5,345,h1 33f,ge,34r,gc 342,gd,337,fp 358,ho,342,gd 35n,h7,358,ho 36m,hm,34a,hg 34a,hg,32q,fr 38c,gp,359,h7 35j,ek,352,g2 356,g8,35n,h7 36u,fs,3ak,i6 364,h2,36m,hm 35f,gf,36c,h0 36c,h0,364,h9 364,h9,35u,gk 351,gk,35s,hd 35s,hd,36a,ha 36f,gf,35l,j3 36k,hd,35n,iq 371,g2,36l,it 36s,hf,379,hi 379,hi,376,hr 367,gk,37b,hp 37k,i8,36f,gf 3af,ji,371,hf 391,n1,3ah,j7 3ah,j7,38p,ku 3ag,i7,3a7,kf 3a6,jt,3bb,lr 3ah,ju,391,n1 3ac,kf,39m,o3 39r,ko,3b6,p8 3a1,nm,3as,kk 3al,l7,39l,nk 39l,nk,3b5,n1 3be,lp,3a0,o4 3ad,na,3ah,ju 3ba,of,3ba,km 3ba,km,3ac,o5 3ai,ns,3be,lp 3bo,m9,3ba,of 3b7,ok,3bv,mb 3bv,mb,3ai,ns 3bp,n3,3b7,p3 3bc,lf,3d8,mv 3bv,l5,3b7,nf 3b7,nf,3d9,ln 3d9,ln,3ch,o3 3aq,le,3cp,ld 3cp,ld,3cc,n5 3bt,ou,3bo,m9 3c8,mv,3b7,ok 3db,pj,3ci,n4 3ci,n4,3bt,ou 3ci,pj,3c8,mv 3cf,nb,3c7,nk 3e7,q5,3d8,nr 3d8,nr,3ci,pj 3df,nk,3d2,pf 3e0,od,3db,pj 3d8,mv,3dp,o9 3ch,o3,3e2,n6 3cc,n5,3dv,mn 3dv,mn,3dt,p0 3ej,qj,3e0,od 3di,nu,3dg,pv 3do,ol,3ef,q0 3ee,oj,3ej,pk 3el,o7,3e8,pd 3e8,oh,3e7,ph 3g4,op,3i7,q4 3ie,qe,3l6,rn 3l6,rn,3n3,sd 3n3,sd,3po,sn 3pn,so,3u3,sp 3u3,sp,41b,so 3u5,sr,3v5,s5 3v2,s6,3vm,rp 400,rp,409,rp 3us,sp,3v2,s6 43t,tk,3vv,sv 409,rp,40h,s6 40o,s6,40p,ru 40p,ru,40s,rp 40s,rp,414,rm 414,rm,41b,rm 41b,rm,41i,rn 41i,rn,41n,s6 40h,s6,40h,sm 40h,sm,40n,sl 40n,sl,40o,s6 43h,rl,434,s9 427,rt,42c,rp 432,rb,437,rb 437,rb,43g,rb 43d,s1,42j,se 428,sd,424,s3 432,rb,41u,ru 41n,s6,41r,sc 41r,sc,421,sd 421,sd,42a,s8 41j,rn,45u,p7 43g,rb,43r,rd 42n,rv,43c,ri 43n,rb,43s,ra 44o,qq,45e,q5 45g,rc,43g,sj 43g,sj,43c,r5 45e,tr,44b,tn 45t,p8,46o,ok 45e,q5,45g,rc 45a,ru,45f,pv 45f,pv,45t,p8 43c,r5,44r,qq 46f,tm,45e,tr 46o,ok,47k,o2 47k,o2,48p,nk 47q,tg,476,tl 48p,nk,497,n6 497,n6,4ah,mn 49u,t1,48f,tg 4ah,mn,4bj,n3 4bg,qn,4b1,ru 4b1,ru,49u,t1 4bj,n3,4br,o2 4br,o2,4bl,pp 4bl,pp,4bg,qn 4bi,q7,4d5,r3 4d5,r3,4fn,ru 4fn,ru,4ig,s0 4ig,s0,4ki,rl 4ki,rl,4lo,r2 4lo,r2,4n0,q1 4n0,q1,4nj,p5 4o8,mi,4o9,jm 4nv,nv,4o9,mj 4nj,p5,4nv,nv #4nr,jo
  14. For the last few days I have tried just about everything i can think of to remove the balancer shaft w/o the special tool. Why, because apparently these special tools come directly from Japan so I need to wait past this weekend and next to get it. Two more weeks gone.... Of course now the special nut that requires the special tool is mangled slightly, but hopefully I'll still be able to get it out. I am trying to get the shaft out to replace the bearings. I have a set of replacement bearings to go back in but I'm not sure this will even fix my problem. the bearings that are currently in are loose in the case. There is a little gap between the race and the case. So if I theoretically had the shaft out and laid the bike on its side the bearing would obviously fall right out. Do you think if I put new bearings in they will fit, or is the case likely "stretched"? When I had it all apart last time the bearing area did not look stressed like I would think if the case stretched open. But it seems impossible that the bearing would be the part that shrank. What do you guys think? I want to get to these bearings asap so I will know if I need to buy new case halves. Then i need to head down that road....again. Does anybody in MD have this "special tool" I can use over the weekend?
  15. My bike is still broken, still haven't gotten the balancer shaft fixed that broke this spring You can check my previous posts to see the problem I had with my balancer shaft, long story short i took it apart to the point where I needed some special honda tools to go further, so not wanting to buy tools I would use one time I took it to my local Honda Dealer to get it fixed because the local shop I have supported was not answering their phone (turns out the owner was on his honeymoon but did not leave an answering machine to that affect, disconnected the machine instead). Honda a dealer tells me it will cost $2300 to fix. Since I thought that was absurd I picked up my bike ($460 bill too) and drove past my local shop, B&E Motorsports, on my way home. Had my engine completely torn down by the dealer so I showed it to the guy (just got back from honeymoon), told him about the leaky water pump and how it apparently is a known problem with these engines, and the parts list from the Honda dealer and he said it would cost $950 to fix if the re-install the engine, $800 to fix if i reinstall it. So I tell them I will reinstall it, they say pick it up in a week. 2 months go by and the engine is finally ready. I really wanted to ride that weekend so I had my wife go pick it up while I was at work. She gets the bill of about $1150 (they put in a new clutch basket that was not on the initial quote, charged me more for it than retail). I get the engine almost back in the bike but couldn't quite figure out how to fit it so I removed the valve cover. A shaft falls out!!! Turns out the black screw left in my bag of leftover parts they sent back with the engine actually did go somewhere!! I'm a little alarmed at this point, but no big deal, simple mistake. i put it back in, install the engine and install the head. Yee haa, almost time to go ride after 2 months and $1,600. I pull the bike out of the garage, fire it up, and there is water pouring out of the engine at the weap hole under the water pump. I am a lot alarmed at this point so I call the guy in a calm voice and let him know about the water pump and threw in the thing about the bolt in the head. Monday gos by....most of Tuesday goes by...I call him again Tuesday around 5PM, he answers, said he got my voicemail, guess he didn't feel the need to reply. Tells my he saw that extra bolt there but figured it went somewhere else. Told me he didn't know the water pump was bad (this is why I brought it to him to begin with, along with the broken balancer gear), all he offered to do was for me to bring it back in and he would replace the water pump too, on my dime. I forgot to mention that I discovered none of the bolts were torqued even close to correctly on the engine, so at this point there is no way I am going to let this clown go anywhere near my engine. Now i am right back where I started, except my engine is completely re-assembled. So I order my list of parts from the TT OEM store to replace the water pump. Parts came, I replaced the water pump seal, and loose bearing, and oil seal. Re-assemble and finally am ready to ride. Fire it up again to hear the loud noise in the engine I heard before it let go 3 months ago. As far as I can tell it is coming from the balancer shaft bearings that are a little loose in the case. When I brought the engine back from the Honda dealer they were both very loose. I told the guy at B&E that they were loose, and most likely the reason for al the noise but he said they were supposed to be loose. Of course he does this for a living so I go with his opinion. I asked him 2 more times just because it made no sense to me, but he re-assured me that those "are not pressed bearings" and that they are supposed to be loose. I guess if anybody has read this far can you tell me if these bearings are supposed to be loose??? I currently now have a whole second order of parts on the way from the TT OEM store, just waiting for those special tools to come in that I didn't buy 3.5 months ago. I got bearings for both side of the balancer shaft, but i have a feeling the case is worn and not the bearings, so I will probably need to buy more special tools, tear the engine all the way down and replace the cases before this is all over. Tonight I pull off the left case cover and see a little pin laying down in the oil, given this companies track record I assume it is another misplaced or forgotten part, but maybe it is just a pin that fell out of that plastic gear in there...at this point I am assuming the worst, hopefully it just fell out while I was removeing the cover. So now I have spent another $200 in parts plus all of my wasted time. Total in at this point - at least $1,800 and the engine still doesn't work. Would you guys cancel the credit card charge that I used to pay for this work? I am sooo freakin pissed about this. My brother and i were talking about this and he said "how do people like this stay in business". I have talked to a couple other local friends that ride and got the same response. If nothing else i hope this post serves as a warning to be careful with this shop. Since they opened a couple of years ago i have stopped by every chance I get, bought stuff from them, brought friends by to buy stuff, and in general supported them even though they cost more than buying online. This really is sad. I'll stop whining now...