wire2

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About wire2

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  1. Agreed. The "kiss" method wins again.
  2. I'd take the muffler (or pipe) to a weld shop, have them tig on 2-3" of stainless tube to bring the muffler out to match holes.
  3. I just now noticed, my schematic shows a 7805 voltage regulator. My mistake, it should be a 7812, (12 volts dc) in case anyone is going to use the circuit
  4. 45 watts from the lighting coil will be fine, assuming the light bar draws 40 watts or less.
  5. It's probably a good idea to add a capacitor to cut down led flicker at lower rpm. 2,000 µF @50vdc will do it. Connect it at the rectifier, make sure - goes to - and + to +.
  6. Here's some suggestion from an electrician; (me). As said, you need to add a lighting coil for a power source. Run the 2 leads from it to the AC connections of a 25A rectifier block, mounted on a heat sink. From there, run the + from the rectifier to the left lead (input) of a 7812 voltage regulator chip, AND to the collector of a TIP 35c transistor, also mounted on, but insulated from the heat sink. Run the - lead from the rectifier to the center pin of the 7812 (gnd ref) AND to the black wire of your led light bar. Run a wire from the 7812 right lead (output) to the base of the transistor. Now 1 more lead from the transistor emitter thru an off/on switch to the + (red) lead of light bar. That will give you a constant 11.7 volts at any rpm, (it may drop a bit lower at idle). Wire to the 7812 can be 18 ga, rectifier & transistor wire should be 14 ga. I can do a diagram if you think you need it. Hank
  7. I learned a trick many years ago while servicing CB radios. Which also use small Phillips pan head screws, that also can be VERY tight, and the customer rounds the center. Take a medium size pair of side cutters, hold vertical to the head, squeeze hard enough to cause the cutting edges to bite into the outside edges of the screw head, keep some downward pressure and turn the handles ccw. It worked every time for me. There may/may not be enough meat left on this screw to make it work but nothing to lose.
  8. I tend to agree that using hand tools on threaded fasteners is safer than impacts. And also that the "proper" fix is a new shaft & nut. But if the OP wants to ride in the next few days, there are ways. The factory nut is quite thin, relative to the shaft diameter. A threaded fastener is at its maximum strength when a nut length is equal or greater than the thread diameter. My suggestion is, clean up the shaft threads, have a machine shop make a wide nut from hex stock. That will apply force to ALL remaining threads at once, and will very likely hold the required torque. Loctite will keep it from coming loose but won't take the place of a missing thread. All it does is fill the gap on the unloaded side of the fastener threads, then expand (cure) when air is cut off.
  9. Hold the 2 cams side by side, with 1 lobe of both pointing straight up. Are both ACR's in the same orientation? If so, the new one should be pressed off and moved around to the "new spot" (as described in the planetklx.org procedure) and pressed back on. If there's ~10-15° difference, the new one is good to go.
  10. If we're talking mid '90's 250's, they're all the same, 1¼" OD, with the main bend flattened somewhat, reducing it a bit more yet. The new 250 headers are longer.
  11. Filling it with water and freezing will cause expansion, unfortunately not just at the dent. The whole thing will expand and split the case. What I've experimented with successfully is air and heat. Seal both ends, one end with a hose fitting to an adjustable air regulator. Give it ~ 25 psi, then heat the dent slowly with a torch. As the stainless softens, it will balloon back out to original. If it goes out a bit too far, is easy to tap back in with a small hammer. Let it cool, polish the oxide off with a Scotchbrite pad.
  12. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4600404792&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1
  13. If you can't get the oem heat shields at a reasonable price, perforated sheet stainless works well. I used that when I first made some 1½" ss headers for the KLX's. Now I use a jig to position 3 ss cubes drilled & tapped 6mm, welded on, to accept the stock shield. Hank
  14. After the rear tab broke off, I made a replacement from 1/8" stainless, 1" high, 1" across the top, tapered down to 5/8" at the bottom. I welded a ss 6 mm nut in the middle, then drilled & tapped through the plate. After grinding the old weld and broken tab from the frame, I tig welded the new tab on. It's been solid for the whole summer. I should mention, mine broke because I have extra weight on the rear tab. I'm running a Honda CRF450 aluminum muffler, which weighs less but shifts more of the weight to the rear tab. The inlet pipe points right at the KLX header but it needs to be extended 2½". Hank