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icprey

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About icprey

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    TT Newbie

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    Quebec
  1. icprey

    Trail riding, coming from Canada

    Thanks for the info. Great to hear there is plenty for us to discover. We both decided to stay put this weekend and deal with some final winter tasks and bank some "free time" by hanging with the family. Headed on my last snowmobile ride right now, but should be up in a couple of weeks. Weather did look great, but hoping it can dry up some more in the coming weeks. Anybody out riding today have a great ride!!
  2. icprey

    Trail riding, coming from Canada

    I am interested here too. From southern Quebec. We are 2 planning to ride in PA this weekend. Originally headed to Lost Acres...AOAA was found late yesterday. We are riding enduro bikes, wondering opinions vs both places. AOAA looks quite a bit more rocky than Lost Acres and a little further to drive....but the acreage looks to be significantly more. Looking to ride 2 days. Is it worth hitting each for a day or enough in each to satisfy over two days? Also wanted to go to RAC but the yearly pass was a deal breaker. Funny we must have sent a few emails from Canada with the same questions!!
  3. icprey

    Bars that don't bend????

    Alright I know anything can be bent but who makes extremely resistent bars. I did a search on Pro-Taper and I'm a little lost on their model line(even their site isn't all that clear). I've had no time to ride this year but 3 bent bars in 4 rides is not good. First was stock bar that came on bike and went down in a rut moving in second. Replaced with a set of Moose reg steel bars and next ride had a week first gear hidden rock/mound affair that sent me down at crawling speed and I don't know how but the bar bent quite a bit. Replaced with MSR dominator aluminum bar(thicker, bolted croosbar).Next ride I stayed up(woohoo). Then last week I rode and in third went down in another rut(I suck in these things) but I lied it down sideways pretty soft I though(mud) in a high grass area. Sure enough I pull the bike up and another bent bar. Some guys say good quality 7/8 will do the job, while the other riders I know swear by Pro-Tapers(stories of 50 crashes and nothing). Has anyone made the switch to Pro-Tapers and resolved their bending problems or other solutions(and don't say not crashing!!!!). I need to run handguards and own/prefer the aluminum wraparounds. I'm willing to spend the bucks here but want to know it will be worth it. I'm tired(and especially my wife) of $20-45 bars bending on their first ride if a $150 kit will really work. Let me know what you use and swear by.
  4. icprey

    No pressure after changing brake fluid

    Had this happen years ago and I guy I still look up to for his mechanical abilities told me to do the following. Pinch the brake hose(vise grip worked well) just after the master cylinder and pump the brake just as you were doing to bleed at the caliper. It should get hard quick. Now hold pressure on the lever but instead of opening the bleeder screw at the caliper, crack the bolt that holds the front brake hose to the master cylinder. The lever will come in and before letting go retighten the bolt. Repeat a couple of times. Have a rag hanging around the general area as it will drip. Then move to the caliper at the bottom and bleed normally. In my case it was on a sportbike that had several junctions to the front brake lines and I would do the same thing pinching the hose just after each bolt holding the brake hoses. That day I had spent about an hour pumping till my hand couldn't take any more, and after this trick it took about 15 min to have the strongest brakes I had ever bled up until that point. Hope this works for you too.
  5. Great, thanks for the info guys. Trailryder always there to save my a** with my newbie questions!
  6. icprey

    My bike is FINALLY back together!!

    Nice job, My kickstand also tore off the frame. Did you HAVE to tear down to do this repair or simply chose to do it to do a clean job(re-paint). I just figured I would take the whole bike and stand to someone with a mig to do the job one day, not take everything apart.
  7. Read most threads that talk about this and I want to do this option for an upcoming ride. I will go the proper route of new springs in a few months. Haven't had the bike(1999 xr400) too long but I promised the wife no more expenses on it for a while(after my bar/riser purchase next week ). I have read to install the spacers and start with about an inch of pvc piping(outer/inner diameter??). I read something about pvc 40. Is this a std code for piping? However do I simply install this on top of the springs or do I need to cut the springs down an equal amount. And if I cut the springs down do I have to flatten the cut end to come down flush with the spring to make a nice seat for the spacer(like stock). I don't want the end to grind into the pvc piping and drop shards of plastic into the oil. I am 225lbs and ride eastern woods mostly with some sand so 1-3rd gear mostly. I figure when I will purchase new springs I'll go with about .44 from what I have read here. But for the moment can someone comment on the spacer that is needed and the proper installation procedure(cut stock springs how much or simply install on top of stock springs). Thanks in advance for any info you can provide(or actual experience doing this).
  8. Purchased an xr400 just before winter and haven't had much of a chance to get a good feel for it(few small rides only). I've been searching the forum and most recommend a high bar set-up or risers(with or without forward mounting). I can't really afford to try set-ups and the risers look interesting. However I read some of my DB back issues when Summers was the man and kicking a** with an xr600 in the woods. He stated that he rode with a lot of backsweep in his handlebars and really learned to ride keeping his weight far back because of the heavier front end. Now I know we are not dealing with as much weight as that(xr600 vs 400) but I definitely feel the front end does feel planted(plowing?) more on this bike than my last lighter two stroke. Here is the problem, I definitely will get some risers and my body 6'2 would like the room of the forward risers, but I'm worried it will send further weight up front(I'm 225lb). I feel the straight up risers would keep the weight back a bit but maybe too much or maybe enough to throw off a nice body position. What size risers do you recommend as 1 and 1.5 inches are avail, and does anybody use a high bend with the risers or is it only one or the other. These will come mail-order so I'm trying to make a good decision. Thanks
  9. icprey

    Did all Xr400 come with rim locks

    Just picked up Dirt Bike issue last night, yellow cover where they build an rm250 for off-road riding. Somewhere near the end there is a tech tip section on changing tires and it states that the valve stem nut should not be snug down at all for if the tire were to slip and pull the tube the valve would have some play in it. Very interesting and makes sense, but not the way I have ever done it or seen it done. Any comments on this technique, or what is other peoples techniques for the valve stem and the two nuts. Since my hole is a little larger the nut I leave underneath near the tube will always go into the hole a little but not seat flat, therefore my stem is always crooked. Also did your Xr400 rims come with little spikes on the inside of the rim so as to hold the tire to the rim so as not to spin. They are allen screws from the outside. Trailryder gave some great input, anyone have any tips?
  10. Just finished changing the tube in my tire as it ripped the valve stem and I noticed there was no rim lock that came as original equipment. It has little pointed screws that appear to mimmick some sort of locking system. There is one hole almost opposite the valve that has a plug in it that has been there since day one which I would assume is where the lock would go. However an old Dirt Bike article I have states that the hole/rim lock should be not more than 8 inches away from the valve stem to be effective. I'm going to be ordering a lock this afternoon should I drill a new hole with 8 inches of the valve? On a slightly different subject, what is the proper positioning of the two screws that come on the valve stem. I aaumed one under and one avove the rim to hold the stem straight, however since the hole is fairly large the stem always goes crooked. I installled a washer on the top/outside of the rim to try and straighten it, but it still has a little angle which I imagine is not too good. Thanks
  11. I have read a lot on setting up the bars and levers to be comfortable, but have never really seen much written about how to set-up the throttle. Is there like a 12 o'clock position or something on the bars where the throttle should start opening. If you set it too forward it would seem wide open will be at a comfortable position but initial turn would have you reaching forward or your arm angle too high. Too far back and you will be over twisting your wrist for wide open and arm angle too low. Hope you understand what I mean and can shed some light on this. Thanks
  12. I might get told otherwise and am far from an expert but any engine that is flooded will normally respond well with the throttle held open. This way the extra fuel is equalled with an oncoming greater quantity of air. This is true of cv carbs where you do not inject more fuel when opening the throttle on an unstarted engine. I am only on my XR second ride and have yet to go down but from what I asked around once you get the bike back up try it normally first; decom in go thru 4-5 kicks then a good kick after you pass kickstarter hard spot with no decom lever. If this doesn't work I would try open throttle. My little suzuki 230 quad needs open throttle after a roll over. Same with my WR200 and sleds. Hope this helps, and if I haven't offered proper advice let him and me know. Looks like I was typing my reply as Scoot answered. Looks to be on the right track.
  13. Hi everyone first post. I am adding this as I see this is a very popular topic and I received a lot of help by searching the title key words. This is best read by someone who has difficulty starting their bike or if you wish to learn by my experiences. I bought an XR400 last week. Went to see it on a very cold 8 degree celsius night where the bike was in the back of a truck. I arrived minutes after the fellow did at our meeting place to look the bike over and he showed me how to kick it over using the decrompression lever to get just past tdc and then wail on. Everything worked a-ok but bike was warm and he had a couples of minutes to warm it up before I arrived. Went the next night to pick the bike up it was in the back. Drove my truck around to the loading ramp and as I got out of my truck 1 min after him getting the bike I heard it start up and he rode it out into the back of my truck. We cinched it down and I was off to XR heaven. My first Honda after all these years and this simple reliable design was going to be awesome. Got home from work the next night, right into the garage choke on, a couple of slow kicks with the decom lever found tdc hard kick nothing. Try again and again and again, half choke , no choke eventually back to full choke, never making the mistake to twist throttle(remember this from my previous brands of 4-strokes that I always managed to kick over). NOTHING. Not even a pitiful attempt at starting. Easily 200 kicks later convinced it must be flooded. I'll come back tomorrow. Next day spend afternoon reading everything I can on the net about starting these things and realise maybe this thing wasn't what I was looking for. I don't have time to waste with starting nonsense. I come to a consencus of all the drills I read which I was going to try first(although there is a counter clockwise knob turn thing that I still don't really unserstand. Turn it clockwise to raise idle speed slightly). Here we go. Nothing. Ok try again. NOthing. Again NOTHING!!!! &%$#@!!!!! I swear to god 500 kicks later I am completely drenched I have been out there for a hour, I would rip anyone who talks to me head off (thank god its late at night and nobody is around and I hate this bike more than anything in the world. Plus I pull my aching foot out of my boot to see blood on the bottom of my foot thru my sock. This bike has gone to war with me and I haven't even had a chance to abuse it. Score:Bike=1 Owner=0 Next day. Try to read more about possible causes, valve adjustment, filter, carb you name it. No use trying to start today my leg and foot hurt way too much. But this bike started up when I went to see it and pick it up by this guy half my size and I wailed on the kickstart so freaking hard I was sure it was going to break it in half or bust the peg off. Wanted to check the plug but used bike and no plug tool where I'm at. I did read something about running the bike for a very short time and shutting down could foul the plug, so I'll put in a new one. 2 days later still not liking the bike(or the plug access for that matter as I have to grind an already small specialty tool down even further to get that plug to turn, we are talking paper thin here, and watch for crud in the recess) and the black sooty looking plug does make a nice spark when tested but seeing as I have new one I'll put it in instead. Starting drill from the net, kick, kick kick , third hard kick and she fires up and I play with the knob to get idle speed back down. I'm in heaven. The moral of this story is that your(or my) bike will not start if it is not in the proper state of tune to do so. I must have kicked I estimate about 700 times(including slow or fast decom kicks) over 2 days. I could have kicked another 700 and it would not have started. The mechanical condition is priority and paramount to the bike being able to start. Start with the easy stuff first( like the plug). I was contemplating carb work, timing issues when all it was, was the plug(although either of those other jobs may have been easier than extracting the plug HAHA Bad job here Honda). In the end the bike always starts first kick since I got it going. So for those of you who may be new or up at 2 a.m. trying to get your bike going here is my drill. 1.Gas on. 2.Choke up to fully open/on 3.2 clockwise turns of black knob. These turns are the amount my fingers will twist it and not complete turns. I am not sure how much it really turns. 4.Hold decompression lever and kill switch and kick trough 10 times. Nice and easy kicks don't burn your energy here. 5.Let go of decom lever and kick until kickstart gets really hard and you can't push through any more(not full hard kick) 6.Grab decom lever and ever so slightly kick just past that hard spot(not all the way down!) and bring the kick back up to the top. 7.Focus all that energy, think about that childhood bully or your boss that p*&&ed you off last week and kick like a mo-fo all the through(that means down ALL the way). Do not touch the throttle and as I read during my searches place your right hand on the crossbar or master cylinder. This works with my bike and may not work as well with yours, but if you are having problems like I did maybe you can learn something from my experience. Good luck. ICPREY
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