Larz

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About Larz

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    Georgia
  1. Silly, those are kill markers for other trail riders taken out (Obviously, this guy's an ACE so don't ride near him!)
  2. Read here. There is also info at www.bobistheoilguy.com. If you want to search yourself, google "motorcycle vs automobile oil John C. Woolum". My personal opinion after having looked and researched it myself is that motorcycle specific oil is a big scam. The test data does not show it as superior to auto oil except for the note not to use oil marked "energy conserving" on a wet-clutch bike. If anything the test data actually shows some auto oils as retaining their viscosity better than motorcycle oils after the wear test period. "Myriad are the arguments of the mages" ---unknown
  3. How big a deal is it to get the aluminum covers vs the plastic acerbis covers? I would think the metal would be better, but I have no experience to base this on hence the question.
  4. Have you tried www.ronayers.com? I get all my Honda OEM parts there. They have more bikes "online" for you to search the fiche for, but www.servicehonda.com has a new feature that lets you search for parts on ANY honda bike ever made even if they don't have it listed on their main site. Very useful for older bikes. Do not know if Ron Ayers has an issue with shipping overseas.
  5. You are dead-on and I am an LMF. Went to servicehonda and did their all bikes lookup (interesting experience in and of itself). The pix for the 83-84 XR400 front wheel look just like what I have. Better yet, the collar I ordered is the same partnumber as this wheel's collar Now I just have to wait another 8 days for Ron Ayers to get my part to me......
  6. I'm pretty much suspecting this is the case. I'll go match parts up with the 85 XR400 and see if the collar is the same part as the 96 XR250. Hopefully it is. It's gonna piss me off if I have to order the d*mn collar for a THIRD time. I think my bike is gonna be an XR400F for Frankenstein
  7. Thanks Much for the info! And a very good coincidence too that the XR250 and XR500 use the same fork as I ordered the XR250 collar. If it doesn't fit it looks like I'll be hacksawing a chunk of pipe to make my own.
  8. The only reason to have more than one "set" of poles is because you need two different circuits. Usually this is because someone wants one for the headlight and one for everything else. I would be inclined to wind one set of 6 poles and use the yellow/pink wire connectors that already go into your regulator. The only caveat is "what are the remaining three poles on the white/white pair doing? Can you trace the two white wires out of the stator cover and see what they are going to? They may not even be used. If not, perfect! You can't miss what you aren't using.... Of course, if you are feeling lazy, you can take the output of pole 3 and run it into the input of pole 4. Save the entire rewinding thing. I would verify one thing. Each pole MUST be wound opposite the ones on either side of it. Pole 1 looks like it is wound counter-clockwise (looking down from the top). Pole 2 looks like it is wound clockwise. Pole 3 looks like it is also wound clockwise. This is BAD. Pole 3 needs to be wound counter clockwise. Also this clockwise/counter-clockwise thing is so you can generate the AC current needed to run the bike. The regulator turns it into DC power (I think) as well as limiting the voltage. (I could be wrong on this). Where I'm going with this is that you have to have two phases for each electrical "wave" and each pole is a phase. You have to have an even number of poles in each circuit. 3 won't cut it. You can have 4 on one circuit and 2 on the other, but 3 and 3 won't work. This may very well be the source of your power problem. A rewind that goes from 2 poles to 3 poles is the same as 2 poles. I would seriously look at getting a wind of all six poles in series with each other. Mind the clockwise/counterclockwise thing. Here's a couple of really good links to the reason why on a lot of this. It was very helpful when I did my rewind. http://www.xr650r.us/stator/ http://www.chblock.com/dualsport/lighting/xr650r/ Here's the reason behind a lot of this: http://www.chblock.com/dualsport/lighting/xr650r/tech.html I did my XR400 using the above sites as guidance. The rewind took about 45 minutes to do. With the power coming out of the headlight, I run a 65W/55W with no issues and could probably run a 100W/55W if I was sure I wouldn't melt the front headlight housing.
  9. These are definitely Showas as they have the Showa sticker on both with the model. Let's see if I can do the pic thing right.... Here's the basic shock. Note left side is milled out of aluminum shock tube while right side is standard 4-bolt clamp style (left and right refer to the bike's side, not the picture side) Another.... Note single drain bolt coming out of back of the shock Pointing to Showa label Side view Went through the garage looking at XR250's and most of the left side shots show my style of fork on the left side. The axle actually threads into the milled receiver. Not too good with rebound and damping details of forks. Each fork tube has one bolt on the back at the bottom (see pic) and the very bottom of the fork tube has one adjustment bolt (looks like a hex key is used to turn it) on the very bottom end of the fork. I'll go measure the fork tubes as soon as I can figure out a make-shift caliper (I don't own one).
  10. OK, so I take the bike out to Durhamtown Plantation here in Georgia a weekend ago. Lotta fun. Riding back to the lot I manage to get a flat. No biggie. Get the flat changed after much struggle. 'Bout time! Go to put the wheel back on the bike, missing the Front Wheel Collar. Oh sh*t! This pretty much ends riding for the day. End of the day already. No Sweat. So the next day I order the replacement Front Wheel Collar from Ron Ayers and get it a 9 days later. Went to put it on the bike tonight and it's won't fit. Huh? I know i ordered the right part. Go back to RA's site and check, sure enough I did. Get to looking closer at the fiche of the front fork and I realize their fork doesn't look like mine. Hmmmm. After much investigation, my wildly clever mind leading me to look at the XR250, I have made an astounding discovery.... I have an XR400 with an XR250 front end! Say what? Yes it's true, my front fork looks like an XR250's fork looking at the RA fiche for the 250. Further more, looking at the front fork, I find the following info. The fork tubes are labeled "Showa MG3-003". Nothing googles for this so that doesn't help. Looking at the Front Wheel Collar for the XR250, I get a part number of 44311-MG3-000. Hey, there's that MG3 thing again. I think I'm on the right track! I'm gonna order it and hope it's the right part. My question to the rest of the peanut gallery is philosophical. How did I get an XR400 with an XR250 front end? The bike is for sure an XR400 as the Cylinder Head has 397 cm stamped on it. But, it has an XR250's front end. Did I get a bike where Honda was still switching things over ('96/97 was the first model year for the XR400, maybe they were still using some XR250 parts early on) and I just have a bike with an XR250 front end or did someone previous to me put on an XR250 front fork after doing something "unmentionable" to the bike (Doh)? My thoughts are leaning towards the factory doing it as the entire front end is consistant. The XR250 fork has to have the XR250 axle that fits it and my missing piece, the Front Wheel Collar has to be the XR250 piece (I hope) to fit the XR250 Axle (the XR400 piece which I have is for a larger axle). This piece does not fit into the front wheel (too large) so the Hub on the front wheel is definitely not an XR400 front hub so it must be the XR250 front wheel hub. This leads me to believe that the entire setup from the forks through the wheel is XR250. I could be wrong (No!). Can anyone shed some light on how I wound up in this situation? There's a lot of knowledge here on the board and someone might know the XR400's history in the early days much better than me.
  11. Took her out today and "blooded" her again.....
  12. Exactly! That was my problem with my '97 XR400. Kicking it was new to me and it took about a month for me to figure out reliably how to do it. The BIG SECRET is that you can't "wussy kick it". If you are sitting on the bike and using your leg, it will NEVER start. You have to sort of get that whole body all the way through motion to get it going. Once I figured that out, I can get it started probably on the 5th or 6th kick every time.
  13. I just got a PM from someone who did the install using the Trail Tech Rare Earth Magnetic bolt and he said I could go ahead and share the info so here it is.
  14. Then I think that would be this page here . You want part number 44800-MY6-771. $56 and change new. You may be able to get it cheaper off ebay.
  15. Just out of curiosity, do you have to have the original OEM part? If so, Ron Ayers lists the parts and you can buy them from their site here. The unit, however, looks like it is an odometer only. If you don't have to have the oem part, you might be better off going with the Trail Tech computer. There is a good thread on this subject as a recent post here in this forum. I'll probably be doing that myself as I need a speedometer on my bike.