Rustynuts

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About Rustynuts

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    California
  1. Interesting. Amongst these recent mods is a new tank vent. I'll check it out. What about thoughts on jetting/needle position?
  2. I've got an '04 DRZ400E. It has the 3x3 air box mod, FMF pipe and power bomb header, NoToil filter, Aftermarket radiator just installed (supposed to run cooler), and has the DJ spring installed on the slide valve and have installed the JD jet kit. Typical riding altitudes 0-4000 Just added the Power Bomb and radiator. The bike has always seemed to run pretty warm and pops a little on the low end, deceling. Lean on the low end?? Also, I picked up a 27.5 pilot jet to try out and with it installed, the fuel screw seems to like it around 2 turns. I put the 160 in to try but thought I'd check in here before my ride this weekend. (I'm thinking I'm a little to aggressive with the needle setting) Currently set up as follows but with no rides: 160 main 27.5 pilot 4th clip on blue needle fuel screw 2t (idle is smoothest/peaks) Also, since making these mods, once the bike warms up, it'll bog out with any throttle, sometimes. Idles fine but dies immediately with any throttle. It can't be from being too fat can it?? I can't find anything else wrong as I've pulled the carb twice for inspection, vacuum leaks, etc. Aside from jetting recommendations, any thoughts here? Have never had this issue. Took it out last night (about 48*) and road it down the street and back. Seems to run fine and as I approached my house, it bogged and died. would only run with the choke on and idling. Any throttle kills it. Is this a case of too fat?Valves have never been adjusted.... Thanks for any help
  3. i'm a very mechanical person and being affraid to pull my forks apart makes me feel like a tard. thanks for the explanation. i have 3 days till my trip and might give it a go.
  4. lets say i did as you say, and reassembled onto the bike. would it not be possible to lift the front wheel off the ground so the forks are fully extended, pull the air bleed screw, and measure the oil level from the top of the cap? and use that as a bench mark. i've had both my seals leak some and think i cleared the debris causing the leaks from the seals and wipers. that being said, i'm trying to avoid pulling everything apart for two reasons. one, i've never done forks before and don't have any of the tools. two, i'm leaving for the desert in 3 days and don't have the time to figure it all out. surely someones got a short cut figured out. i'm not looking for ultra high performance here. just in the ball park. i made a tool like the one you can buy (for $50) consisting of a seringe with cc markings, attatched to a 12" lone piece of 1/8" aluminum tubing with a flexible poly hose. no mess, very quick, and easy to maintain consitancy between the two forks.
  5. hello, i'm looking for anyone who has adjusted their fork oil level with the forks still on the bike. specifically, what is the stock level and where have folks adjusted the level too? what's your weight? i know 5w is stock and i'm going to give 7w a try as i'm 205 with gear and they're too soft. i've heard about adding 5cc at a time but what about if you lost half your oil and you want to top it off without pulling the forks off/apart? i've read 4.5" from the top but this seems to be with the forks off/apart. but not sure. i have not picked up a manual yet and am prepping for this weekend. i had a leaking fork seal and think i have it fixed. used a tear off to clean debris from the seal. anyway, i need to set my level and am not sure. any direction would be great. thanks in advance. rustynuts 2004 DRZ400E
  6. get a different bike! sorry i couldn't be more helpful.