Jump to content

Knobbydude

Members
  • Content count

    85
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Neutral

About Knobbydude

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Carolina
  1. Knobbydude

    Take the Political Quiz...

    I got a 31 on the 'conservative' test, 90 on the 'libertarian' test. About what I figured.
  2. Knobbydude

    Whoops are whupping my ass!

    All good advice about the butt at the back of the seat, speed, etcetera. On suspension setup: stiff helps, with the exception of rebound damping. Too much rebound doesn't allow the shock to extend after each hit, and this leads to something called 'packing' where after the fifth or sixth whoop the rear shock is stuck at roughly 1/2 length, leading to swapping ends, bugged out eyes, screaming and then pain.
  3. Knobbydude

    Motorcycles "Stress" Wildlife? Oh, really?!?!

    Down here, the deer hunters say we scare off the deer, then the FS closes off one loop at a time so they can hunt there on certain days. Am I the only one who sees the irony? The red cockaded woodpecker is allegedly so shy that it is easily scared from its nest. So why have they expanded their clusters to include the Swamp Fox OHV trail? Why was there a nesting pair in a shopping center a few years ago? Inquiring minds want to know.
  4. Knobbydude

    Dead engine start

    A Katoom 2 smoker buddy showed me a neat trick: get the engine warmed up to operating temperature, then get lined up. Start the bike, then put it in your usual start gear, pull in the clutch and kill the motor. Keep the clutch in! If you let the clutch out, or the engine isn't fully warmed up, the clutch plates stick together and add drag. When your line leaves, shove the kickstart down, push the bike forward with your left leg, and release the clutch all at the same time. I kept trying this with my WR400, and it works with that bike too, the only real change was to hold the bar mounted hot start open. I did the usual just past TDC no throttle etc drill, and kept practicing it. Another hint: on race day, practice your start with each line that leaves ahead of yours. That keeps you on the sharp edge. If for whatever reason it doesn't start immediately, don't freak out just get the damn thing started. Hell, half the field falls in the first mile anyway.
  5. Knobbydude

    Ruts

    Best way to handle a rut? Don't get in the freakin' thing in the first place. Like motocross: don't follow the guy in front of you, you'll make the same mistakes he does. A rut forces you to use everyone else's line, and that's not usually a good thing. Of course, once you manage to drop into one, the best thing to do is lean back and gas it. Immediately look for a way out! I have at times ridden with the bike leaning over, sort of like weighting the pegs on an off camber, with the rut just to the side.
  6. Knobbydude

    Most important protective gear...

    In order: 1) Helmet and goggles. Make sure the helmet fits right, nothing worse than too tight or my personal pet peeve, too loose. Cheap helmets suck, these days under $100-$125 don't get it. Maybe you can't afford a $425 Arai, but stretch your budget a bit to around $200 for something decent. I wear prescription glasses, for riding I leave them at home and wear contacts since glasses fog like crazy inside goggles and are easy to break. Shooting glasses work great in cold weather, they don't fog as easily as goggles. Decent ones are available at Wal Mart, I bought a set of Remingtons with interchangeable lenses for something like $25. I also like yellow lenses, they seem to show trail junk better. I would avoid sunglasses, they make it hard to see in tree canopy (lots of shadows). 2) Boots. Don't skimp here, figure around $200 and up. If all you have is work boots, that's better than nothing. Wear thick socks, you might want to grab some thick ones to take with you to the bike shop for trying on purposes. Amazing how good boots feel with thick socks! Oh, and learn to keep your toes pointed up no matter what you wear on your feet. 3) Gloves. Don't just grab any old pair and walk out with them, put one on and grab a handlebar in the bike shop, see if they 'bunch up' in the palm area. Keep checking until you find some that don't. I also don't wear the ones with elastic at the wrist (very rare nowadays) because they cut blood flow to your hands. I also will, for long rides, use those Kevlar gloves that mechanics use under a pair of oversize riding gloves; no blisters. 4) Chest protector. These are all pretty good nowadays, get one that covers front and back and has decent padding inside. I like the Acerbis; good ventilation. 5) Elbow and knee protectors. The cheap ones slide around, irritate the hell out of you, thus distract you from the task at hand and do no good. Look for adjustable straps above and below the elbow, and for enough knee/shin guard length to tuck comfortably into the top of your boots. 6) Enduro jacket. If you ride in cold weather (under 40 degrees) these things are indispensable! I have a Moose XCR that is comfortable and has the most important feature these need: adjustable ventilation.
  7. Knobbydude

    handle bars/bends

    Second jhendr3702. When picking a bend, here's something I heard a long time ago, and it works: put the bike on a stand, sit on the seat in a comfortable position, then CLOSE YOUR EYES! stick your hands out like you are riding comfortably, where your hands wind up will give you a good place to start. Probably 85% of bars out there aren't straight enough, BTW.
  8. Knobbydude

    Question about fuel sloshing around in fuel tank

    No, I didn't. The first part of my post addresses the fuel slosh issue re: weight transfer, the center 'rib' in the tank for clearing the frame tube (except perimeter frame bike fuel cells) acts as a baffle to slow down the 'slosh'. My WR and Hodaka both have two petcocks because otherwise you could not get fuel from the other side of the tank without laying the bike on its side. An earlier post noted that, since cornering G's are a lot lower for off road bikes compared to, say, F1 cars,the fuel slosh issue, well, isn't an issue. AFAIK, the two (center rib and low G forces) combine to make this a 'non issue' on a dirt bike; the fuel doesn't slosh enough to make a difference weight distribution wise. When you have to move your upper body, weighing considerably more than two gallons of fuel and much further from the CG of the bike anywhere from 6 to 12 inches to have a noticeable result, it seems to me the fuel slosh goes way down the list of things to worry about. The second part addresses whether there would be fuel starvation as a result of fuel slosh. In 43 years of off road riding, the only times I have ever experienced fuel starvation is when it was time to turn the petcock to reserve. Now, the fuel cell in my E Modified autocross car is a different animal; it can and will slosh fuel away from the pickup at the bottom of the cell in a long hard sweeper if the fuel is low, if this happens I hear the fuel pump go nuts and the next thing is popping from fuel starvation. That's why I won't let the fuel drop below 1/3, and I'll wind up with foam in the cell when I replace it with a new one. Model aircraft have fuel starvation problems when doing aerobatics, they solved that with a 'klunk'. It's a sintered bronze fuel filter element which sticks onto the end of a short hose inside the fuel tank. If the plane goes on its side, the 'klunk' falls to the bottom of the tank, keeping it immersed in fuel. I was wondering if maybe Cannondale etc used that method to keep the FI system from starving in, say, whoops.
  9. Knobbydude

    Major riding area lost in Utah

    Montana, the 'stupid shit' is exactly what I am talking about. What I am going to say covers public land for the most part, and to a lesser extent private land. Bluntly, the private landowners don't have to listen to anyone, they can do as they please. The biggest problem facing OHV on private land: the tort explosion, but that's a subject for another thread. Here's the problem: the vast majority of the population doesn't give a rip one way or another about land use by OHV and they are easily swayed one way or another by sound bites, something the greenies exploit at every turn. The ones who allegedly 'care' about the environment (I am speaking of the greenie organizations) do not understand OHV, are selfish in wanting the public forests etc managed their way to the exclusion of any who do not meet their criteria. Thus they don't want OHV. They will use any trumped up bullshit to further that agenda. To show how nuts some of them are: a local greenie activist/artist here in SC sued the FAA because he claimed jet contrails ruined his view of the sky. Yes, really. Take a nutcase like this who has some experience in the public eye and give him some pictures of a bunch of rednecks tearing up a mudhole and now he's got ammo. It does not matter whether it's right or wrong or if the science holds up, if it gets shown on the six o'clock news or printed in the newspaper we are sunk in the court of public opinion. So, on to the 'blanket party': in the military, if one guy in the platoon keeps screwing up and the rest of the guys keep getting punished for his infractions, eventually the rest of the platoon gets sick of it and takes matters into their own hands. I am not advocating throwing blankets over someone's head and giving him a bloody nose; that's why I used the word 'figurative'. My figuative blanket party: if I am riding on public land and come across someone trashing a mudhole, I'm going to try to talk sense to them. If that works, fine, hopefully this person has become a little more educated about land use issues and the effect of their actions on others. If I get the Billy Bob 'I can tear up any damn thing I want and there ain't nothin' you can do about it' attitude, I will make every effort to properly identify that person to the proper authority and have them prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law, to include showing up in court as a witness if need be. Why am I such a hardass about this? These jerks are making it hard for me to find a place to ride responsibly.
  10. Knobbydude

    Question about fuel sloshing around in fuel tank

    The way bike tanks are designed, with the big rib in the middle to clear the frame backbone, it pretty much has a baffle anyway. The earlier comment about molded/welded in baffles cracking the tank is a real problem, some GM cars were recalled for this. Multiple petcocks aren't a new idea, my '71 Hodaka Super Rat has one for each side and the Acerbis 3.3 gallon tank on my WR does too. Carbureted bikes use such a low volume of fuel that fuel slosh shouldn't be a problem.Fuel injected bikes could have a problem, since the fuel pump sucks a large volume and returns a big part of it to the tank. Does anybody know how ATK, Cannondale, GAS GAS etc solved the problem, particularly when the fuel level is very low? I'd guess fuel cell foam.
  11. Knobbydude

    Major riding area lost in Utah

    Spode's 'Bubba' comment was right on. The problem here in SC was, and continues to be, the rednecks whose main joy in life is to get drunk, stuck in a mudhole, sling slop everywhere and brag about it, analogous to the yahoos who squash cactus for the fun of it. On a tangent: I can't see the mudhole thing being truly 'environmental damage', it's not pretty but it doesn't lead to the wholesale loss of species, etc. If nothing traverses the mudhole for six months to a year, you are hard pressed to find where it happened. I know, I've rerouted enough trail around these spots. It's the human perception of it being 'damaged' that is at the root of the problem here. Spode and I have both sat at the table with DNR, Forest Service, and State Forestry Commission people here in SC, had pictures of the 'damage' shoved at us and we are expected to explain it. These same pictures are used to show what they say needs to be contained and eliminated before any additional trail mileage can be approved. I have seen the same damn pictures over and over, some of them are nearly ten years old by now. The real fun begins when trying to explain this concept to the Billy Bobs who cause the problem; these idiots think it's funny. Then, we suggested to the Forest Service down here that they set aside, say, 5 acres and let the rednecks tear it up. No response. Not a yes or no, but just no response. This is not a joke; the FS cut us off from our 'one day a year' enduro trail in the Francis Marion National Forest over this. It starts at the grassroots level: ostracize those who would do things to cut the rest of us off from riding areas, maybe (figurative) 'blanket parties' for the offenders.
  12. Knobbydude

    susp vs hp

    I say suspension first too and this includes tires. I'd get the springs and valving done to suit your weight, set the sag properly and put on some decent tires that suit the majority of your riding (soft or hard terrain) before putting any $ into the motor. Ergos help a lot, too. Getting the bar bend, clutch effort, and brake pedal height right will have a big impact on the interface between you and the bike, which affects the bike's performance much more than you might think! I like the KLX motor, it's a lot like a 125 MXer: rev the snot out of it!
  13. Knobbydude

    susp vs hp

    I say suspension first too and this includes tires. I'd get the springs and valving done to suit your weight, set the sag properly and put on some decent tires that suit the majority of your riding (soft or hard terrain) before putting any $ into the motor. Ergos help a lot, too. Getting the bar bend, clutch effort, and brake pedal height right will have a big impact on the interface between you and the bike, which affects the bike's performance much more than you might think! I like the KLX motor, it's a lot like a 125 MXer: rev the snot out of it!
  14. Knobbydude

    creek jump

    I assume you are jumping DOWNHILL on this? My suggestion: slow down a bit, since you are overjumping. As you approach the edge of the drop, get your weight back and blip the throttle (get the front wheel light) and keep your weight back so you land on the rear wheel first. If you have to turn quickly at the bottom, you might also try turning a bit in the air (harder than it sounds!) so you are partially set up for the turn before you land.
  15. Man, I wish I was going. There's a link to contribute to their trip. http://www.dualsportdiary.com
×