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About sflash868

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    TT Bronze Member

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    New York
  1. I will try swapping out to a 155 main jet and see if that fixes the problem. As for the oil, I had just changed it so I doubt there is any fuel in the oil, don't even know how that would happen. If it won't idle, does that mean that the pilot is blocked? Any advice on which pilot to order?
  2. I have a 2006 S with 13K miles on it. Had it out for a dirt ride on a hot day and I noticed the bike was starting to stumble, bog, stall out unless I kept the revs up. I thought it was running hot. Following week bike wouldn't start anymore. Checked for ignition and all looks good. Fuel to the Petcock is fine. Vaccum lines are connected. It's a fuel/air problem but I can't figure it out. finally got it running but it won't start or stay running unless the choke is pulled (regardless of engine temp). Can close the choke if I open throttle up. When I hold it at steady revs it's popping/backfiring a lot. Lastly, it won't idle down. quick blip on throttle instantly stalls it Setup: Set up for sea level. 3x3, 160 main, stock pilot, K. fuel screw (tried adjusting this with no effect on above symptoms), JD needle- clip in 4th position from top, power bomb header, fmf exhaust, in/ex hot cams. Thanks for any assistance. p.s. pulled the plug and it looked normal. No indication of running lean or rich
  3. So i was thinking about this ACCT and how everyone hates it. When I did my valves i took it apart for the first time and looked at. I noticed that the piston can't slide back out until you release that catch thingy so why don't people just install the acct, use the spring and your fingers to put gentle pressure on the cam chain, take the spring back out and screw the main nut in without the spring there. Isn't that the exact same idea as the MCCT?
  4. Good to know!! I think...
  5. So I'm leaving for Baja tomorrow so naturally I'm freaked about anything that could possibly go wrong. I've landed on my timing chain. I have a 2006 Drz-S which still has the ACCT on it. I just installed hot cams on it and all the clearances were OK, timing marks lined up just fine, etc. What's the life on a timing chain in a DRZ? I have 12K miles on my motor. Bike starts very easily, runs strong, no dead spots and seems ok but I have this fear the chain is going to just randomly snap in the middle of the desert and explode my motor any second. Are there any symptoms before it breaks? I read some posts where guys go 30-40K miles without touching or adjusting a thing. Then I read another post about a guy who is reshimming his valves every 3 rides.
  6. So i've searched a ton and clearly this is a common issue. I installed my 4.0 gallon IMS tank on my DRZ S and put about 1 gallon of gas in it. I had it idling on the kickstand and leaned it over to the right and stalled the bike immediately. Now, I know you can't put a Y-bend in it because one side could suck air but why not stick an elbow bend on the reserve fuel line (inside tank) and run the line down to the bottom of the left radiator shroud? Wouldn't solve the problem of the fuel starving when leaned over but at least you could use all your gas. Has anyone done this? My questions are: 1. what size is the fuel line inside the tank? 2. can a plastic elbow bend stand up to sitting inside a fuel tank?
  7. Good to know, I was worried I had done something wrong!
  8. whoa that's a nasty groove. How long were you running the bike with hot cams before you noticed that? What do you think caused it?
  9. So I installed hotcams into my 2006 DRZ S and reshimmed everything. Both exhausts are .20 and the intakes are .178 (didn't have the shims to get them to .15 so I'd rather they be loose than tight) Anyhow, started it up and the thing runs great. No backfiring or stuttering, motor fires on like the first turn of the starter motor, pulls nice and hard but the one thing I noticed is at idle those cams are really loud. Maybe i've never paid attention to it before but I can really hear them clicking over, seems much louder than it used to be with the stock cams. It has fresh oil in the motor and I used assembly lube and plenty of oil when I installed them. This normal? The motor has about 12K on it and I used to the original timing chain. This is the first time i've opened the motor up so i'm nervous.. Thanks
  10. So after reading this post I went back and looked at the bike and my rear reservoir is bulged. While I will replace it, I don't understand how that could have caused the brakes to fill with air while sitting?? If I was riding and all the fluid spilled out that sure I get it but it had plenty of fluid in there and the bike was on a stand. I'm just concerned there is another weakness in the rear brake besides a bulged reservoir.
  11. Building my bike for Baja so it's been on a bike stand for about a month with the wheels off. Got it all back together and took it for a ride, stepped on the rear brake and nothing. Pumped it a bunch of still nothing, not even a slight drag on the rotor. Bled the brake and a lot of air came out but it won't fill the line with fluid from the reservoir. HOW does the line fill with air from just sitting?? 1. there is fluid in the reservoir 2. yes, the rotor is btw. the pads 3. There are no leaks What did work, was when I took the cap off the reservoir and pulled out that rubber grommet thing and bled the system with the cap off. Then the brake worked. Put the grommet back in and the cap on and the brake softens up. Right now it's like 70% of what it was. Something is definitely off because a brake doesn't randomly stop working. Pls help. Thanks
  12. I mean I have time I guess but it's more of a money issue. If I do valves, i got to pull the head, take it to a shop, wait for them to do it, rebuild everything and while I'm in there, I might as well do the timing chain. I was looking to get a new bike next year and make the DRZ the second bike so I don't really feel like throwing a couple hundy into the motor right now. I will re shim first and see if the tolerances move after riding. If I set them on the loose end of the spectrum, can I make it 1100 miles even if i'm in need of a valve job? It's freezing cold in NY. for "testing" the motor, can't I just stick a wedge in the throttle and let it rev at 4-5 grand for a while to simulate a ride?? Then recheck the valves?
  13. No i don't, not nearly as much as I should. I only really do it after the thing is visibly very dirty. Probably once or twice a year. If I ride somewhere dusty then I do it more but in NY there is not a lot of that. As for shimming the valves and then re checking after a couple of rides, I'm building the bikes up for Baja. The next time the bike is ridden for a any long period of time will be in the Mexican desert. It's got an 1100 mile ride ahead of it.
  14. So I'm a bit unsure here. I finally got around to opening up the top end of my 2006 DRZ S to check the valves after 13K miles. I've never checked valves before on anything so I used all the resources on TT to figure it out. I set the motor to TDC on the compression stroke (lobes at 10 and 2) and measured the gaps. They were way below min spec. They were: Exhaust: (MM) .178 and .203 Intake (MM) both under .10 (The smallest feeler gauge I had was .10 and it wouldn't get in, not even close) Then I spoke with a Honda guy about this and he said when his valves are below min spec he needs the whole head done. I thought I would just decrease the shim size and rebolt everything. Do i need to redo the head? I ordered hot cams so if the head is going I'm worried the increased power is going to speed up the problem.?? Lastly, I looked at the timing marks. The arrow on the 2 on the exhaust cam gear is straight up at TDC but the arrow for the 3 on the intake cam is a little but off center (towards the back of the bike). Is this normal or is the timing chain stretched? It's very slight but it's definitely not straight up. Can I just re-shim or is there bigger stuff going on here? Thanks
  15. yup. I spliced it on my hot ignition wire.