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kelli

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About kelli

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    MX, Mt. Biking, Wakeboarding, snow skiing, waking up to start another day :)
  1. Please post pic's, I would love to see them!!! Once I get all the lowering stuff put on my bike, I'll post a few comparative photos. Which should give alot of the riders that are vertically challenged a good idea of how much it can lower a CRF250X!!!!
  2. Note to "TooFast".. Well the bike "stock", is ideally designed and set up for a rider between 5'8" and 6' tall 180lbs, so... when your 5' 4" the seat-to-peg distance is actually more distance than it should be for the ideal rider position. So lowering the seat and subframe should make it close to the correct distance for the vertically challenged folks did that make any sense????
  3. Hi there MXDirtDiva To answer your questions... My height is 5' 4", inseam 32", weight 140 lbs - age 45 and I'm in Pleasanton CA I don't want to use the Kouba link (or similar) because I love my suspension too much the way it is, I also do a little track riding, so for jumping it's important to me. So far, I just had the suspension adjusted to my weight, lighter spring in back and in front and re-valved, sag adjusted, etc... that lowered it about 3/4 inch, but when I sit on it now, the seat actually moves, where as before I had to jump up and down on it to make the seat go down even a tad As far as that Durelle seat, it would be strictly to lower it, as I hate the way it looks! Check out the photos below. The Durelle seat (on left and/or the black one) dips way down in the middle, you can see how much lower it is compared to the stock seat. It's also a little wider, they say most women like that, but I'm not sure I will. It will lower the seat height 1" for the X's as opposed to the R's at 1.5" The SpeedMetal designs Subframe lowering kit claims that it will lower the seat height almost 1.5 inches. I found a used subframe for $65, so I can keep my stock one the way it is. No welding is required and is supposed to be very easy to install. The kit comes with: 2 – CNC Machined Sub-frame End Links 4 – Stainless Allen Head Bolts 1 – Mud Flap Extension Bracket 3 – Stickers Tools Required: · Hacksaw or Bandsaw · Masking Tape & Marking Pen · Center Punch · 3/8” Drill Bit (Included) · 5mm Allen Key (Included) · Phillips Screwdriver · Thread locking compound · Metal Epoxy (Optional) One additional form of lowering I plan to do is get a Dunlop D739 100/100x18. It will lower the bike 1/2" (lower profile tire). My husband actually had this tire on his YZ250F and loved it, great all around tire, excellent cornering. It's a little narrower than the stock tire, but still a great tire. So if I just went for the SpeedMetal Kit and the Tire I would lose 2"+ of seat height, and add in the Durelle seat... thats a whole 3", that should do mme just fine
  4. Has anyone used one of these seats? www.durelleracing.com/seatpads.htm The one with the gel insert looks like it would be great, however the looks may take some getting used to... but if it works, who cares! I'm also trying this kit out... The SUB-FRAME LOWERING KIT by Speed Metal Designs http://www.speedmetaldesigns.com/ I'm going to get a used subframe (In good condition) for the kit so I can keep my stock one as it is, also in case I ever sell the bike (don't see that happening). Has anyone tried this method yet? Here's the bike before I had the suspension adjusted to my weight Here's my bike later that day with the suspension adjusted, it lowered it about an inch ...and here's just a cool pic of my white plastics [/img][/b]
  5. OK, i know this subject comes up alot, but i'm new to this forum and need some advise. Would like to know how many of you gals lowered your bike??? ~how many of those ride track (race or just for fun) ~how many ride track and trail ~just trail I'm 5' 4" 140 lbs, 44 yrs old, cant touch the ground except tippy toes... barely, have an 06 CRF250x, have been riding dirt for about 5 years (gave up road bikes, however, have about 17 years of experience on road). I love my suspension/height on the track, however the height is a tad intimidating when cornering… planting my foot and it's no where close to the ground, that kind of thing. On trails the height is a tad more intimidating and possibly effecting my learning curve perhaps keeping me from advancing quicker. I don’t want to lose that awesome jumping suspension by lowering the bike as well as the good handling characteristics, although it might make me a better rider. I have also found that i'm riding more trail than track lately, i think because i'm reverting to beginner level... i don't know... getting frustrated any advise greatly appreciated Kelli PS... my foots up on a little mound, otherwise wouldnt be touching the ground... but maybe thats ok... i don't know
  6. I have looked everywhere, seems that most online and local shops only go back to 86 and up HELP? Kelli
  7. Well, we don't ride in the mud much, very rarely actually, so I'll keep it intact But thanks much for the tip and all the "White Bike" compliments!
  8. Got the plastics from Acerbis, cost was about $100, bought the original shroud graphics and cut off all the red, so it's black, silver and white - looks cool! Had to paint the little bit of red plastic on the side number plates just under the tail end of the seat (used Plastic Fusion Paint). The paint is great! Especially in a area that doesnt get much activity here's the pics
  9. I think i MENTIONED THAT! - - -
  10. WOULDNT BE SWEET IF HECKLER COULD DO THAT FOR REGULAR MAINTENACE + 100 MILES MAINT. + 500 MILE MAINT. ETC. I WOULD CONSIDER PAYING FOR THAT! I made the valve adjustment directions into a Word doc with photo's, placed it in a binder IT'S GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you!
  11. With comments like that, perhaps I can get more constructive advise somewhere else that goes with the "filter and chain" comments as well is it truly necessary ? I do thank the folks that have actually helped out quite a bit
  12. BTW... the $7000 was before the Mods wow! you guys are rough! not sure how this all ended up about my chain and filter... but I do thank eveyone for their advise on the bog
  13. the chain and air filter is not the issue here but... to answer your question... probably for the same reason I have white plastics instead of red Because I can
  14. To answer the questions form "Hawaii-Rider" Here's the Mod's ~ White Bro's E2 pipe = $399.00 ~ Acerbis Plasitic (fenders, shrouds) = $108.00 ~ DID "x" Gold ring chain = $123.80 ~ Spacer for the chain = $1.99 ~ UNI Air Filter = $26.99 ~ B3 Factory FX Seat Cover = $79.99 ~ DD Grips - Grey = $15.99 ~ No slpo gast tank breathrer = $7.99 ~ Original Honda shroud graphics = $26.00 (still waiting for them, I am going to cut off all the "red" on the decal) Altitude = S.F. Bay Area - so bsically Sea level to 400ft Jetting = Delaer re-jetted for pipe and altitude (Eastbay Motorsports, Hayward, CA) How much has it been riden? = From the show room floor, rode it around our property, approximately 3 to 4 miles. I noticed a slight bog/hesitation and not much low-end power Second Ride = Yesterday took it to the local riding park (Carnegie in Livermore, CA). It bogged right off the bat, took it for about a 3 mile easy trail ride, still bogged like no other. Then tried to warm it up on the track to see if I could get rid of it... still bogged but not as bad
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