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    • Bryan Bosch

      2019 Zooks!   07/17/2018

      Suzuki Introduces 2019 Motocross, Dual Sport, Off-Road and Youth Models

team FTB

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  1. Brian I know what yer running and that the bikes won't be jetted at all the same. However the metering rods supplied may be the same. Hence my recommendation to try the 3-2M if you have that metering rod as an option. You're at roughly the same elevation as me down in Pattaya and F___k Me mountain, haha. It worked wonders for me despite the supplied Metering rod providing crisp throttle response, an even pull, and perfect plug reading. Much as you are describing with your setup My best set-up with the supplied 2-3XL was 3/4 of a turn richer (same directions as your is) after discussing with Kevin at Lectron he suggested the 3-2M as it was a bit richer in the mid range. This proved a much stronger pull in the midrange than the supplied 2-3XL. Just thinking we may have the same symptoms. Especially since your 300 will have a lot stronger signal from the carb with the bigger bore. Just a thought for you. My experience and confirmed by Kevin at Lectron is that once you are more than a full turn from where the metering rod was delivered you are out of the ideal setting and there may be better metering rod options. It proved true in my usage. Keep in mind my "main jet" circuit power of the carb did not change at all with the change in metering rod. Top speeds registered, once the Powerjet was adjusted, were identical so no changes in the top end of the power band with the different metering rods. Just a large gain in low and midrange pull. What metering rod did Lectron provide for you? Enjoy the rains as I here the conditions are perfect from friends down there.
  2. Brian not sure what metering rod you're running, for me at 500 meters in Thailand I found the the 2-3XL too lean on my KTM 200. Throttle response was nice and crisp, plug color was gorgeous, etc. It just lacked midrange that I was expecting. I thought I would need the leaner metering rod as most of my four stroke jetting that worked over here was leaner than most use in the USA. After talking with Kevin at Lectron he suggested the 3-2M that I also had. I swapped to the 3-2M after and it was worlds better. Much better midrange pull. This was after going richer and leaner multiple steps on the 2-3XL.
  3. Just an FYI but the 16 250 XCF is a completely new designed motor and frame, I believe the 16 FE did not receive the changes.
  4. Greyracer your contributions on this site are fantastic. In the past you have helped me on technical/troubleshooting issues with my bikes and now you have educated me on understanding two strokes and the component functions. Thank you very very much!!!!!!
  5. Wonderful;!!! These were the explanations that I was hoping to get, thank you. A quick couple nieve questions: So is it understood that the two stroke engine design needs that much stroke designed into it in order to properly execute the needed amount of intake and exhaust gas needs? In other words we could not make a shorter stroke two stroke with a larger bore? I assume the long skirted pistons used in two strokes are due to the port delivery of the gasses through the cylinder and the skirts cannot be done away with since they are needed to cover the ports. Is this correct? If so, we will always be limited by piston weight (relative to 4s) on the two stroke due to the needed skirts, correct? So as I understand it the expansion chamber is a prime operating area RPM that it is designed for, once outside that RPM area it is inefficient and actually causes the power to plummet. So without auto changeable/tunable dimensioned exhaust chambers we will be limited by their design. And therefore limited to an RPM level. Is this correct? For me the reason I think the 4s work so efficiently compared to the 2s is that they have a much broader RPM level in which to operate and therefore have much more area under the curve on a dyno chart compared to 2s. Would having a larger bore (bigger than 300cc) that has enough torque out of the powerband, combined with a high RPM pipe not give us a lot more area under the curve to work with than standard configurations we currently have? Can a two stroke function reliably spinning to say 10,000 RPM, if a pipe was designed to operate there? I love the 2s simplicity, reliability, and easy maintenance as well as top end replacement. However I am now riding 4s because of their wider operating rpm powerbands. There are obviously design reasons on why the two stroke cannot keep pace in regards to efficient power delivery and I wanted to understand them. Thanks to the info discussed in this thread the light is everso slowly turning on for me, thank you.
  6. I did a Google search but found no technical explanation. Can someone educate me on why a production two stroke has a lot lower RPM ceiling than comparative 4 strokes? Is it something to do with induction through the ports that slows things down that much, the longer skirts on he piston, etc. Can someone explain why the 2 strokes are limited in the RPM levels compared to 4 strokes.I would like to understand the technical reasons why. Thank you.
  7. I saw Pete at Nost's 380 YZ a few times. When I saw it about a year ago in his shop (he's had it finished for years now) the aluminum frame had cracked from the excessive vibes of the 380 motor he said. So was waiting on getting it welded back up. We all think the SSS suspension is the bee knees, however Pete at Nost, a suspension genius, always pushing the envelope of suspension improvements had converted the rear suspension over to WP PDS. I kid you not. He said the PDS design was more consistent in the stroke without the leverage ratio of a linkage suspension that is not a consistent ratio through it's stroke. Thoughts to ponder. Thinking outside of the box can alienate you from some people at times but I love and appreciate the ability to look at things with a critical eye and try new things. Pete has that ability/
  8. I'm using a 2013 500 EXC for my DS bike. Previously I had a KTM 525 that I got 500 hours out of traveling through three countries primarily off road. The 500 now has 200 hours of DS riding in Asia. The bike works a charm..........IF............. you value off road technical riding and performance. If all you're doing is fireroads at a casual pace AND LOADS OF PAVEMENT GET A klr 650 or DR 650. If you like technical off-roading then the 500 delivers in spades.- All that it really needs is a tank big enough to get your required distances between fuel stops, balanced wheels, and better lighting if you tend to get caught out after dark. I have other mods but at the end of the day that's all you really need. I start my trips with Synthetic Motul 15/50, then change it after 1000 kms. If I only have regular oil to replace it with I do an oil change every few days whenever it is convenient. The only consideration you have to take into account when riding a race bike in this environment is changing the oil more than you would on a milder tuned bike. 500 enjoying Northern Thailand Traveling about Laos Stuck in the mud in Cambodia Bottom line the bike has worked a charm. So far never needed valve adjustment, never broke down..... until I drowned it multiple times in rivers but that's not the bikes fault. Don't expect 90 mph freeway cruising speeds or Golding like comfort on the pavement and instead relish in it's ability to soak up rough terrain, power slide through corners and wheeling through the jungle.
  9. Is it me or did the xcf not receive the motor changes that the sxf received? they talk about weight savings of the motor casting but not addressing the low end and mid range power development like they did on the sxf FE edition. Weight savings also seems limited to the motor and not the rest ofq the bike like they did on the FEmodel.
  10. The 6th gear on my 2011 250 xcfw is 22/26. I checked on a couple Yamaha OEM parts fische but could not get the actual internal gear ratio's for 6th. Anyone know?
  11. I've been riding a Six Days 2011 250 XCFW for years now. Love everything about it except the front suspension and front end feel. I only feel the inadequacy when riding my friends '09 WR250. It takes more effort to turn but the front end feel is fantastic and front suspension communicates better for me Everything else about the older WR250 I don't like. However the new 15 models have me taking a real hard look. Got a couple questions. First off the seat height. I'm 5'6" and hate the tall saddle of my 2013 KTM 500 with the new frame but love the handling. I've seen a couple posts claiming how tall the Wr/FX saddles are. At my height every fraction of an inch counts (GF also tell me that ) and I'm looking for some some seat height measurements from those with stock springs. Also if you could give me your weight so I can then judge if I'll be running more or less sag, I'm curious if it will be taller than my KTM's? I hope not as the KTM's are too bloody tall for me with the new frames in tight technical enduro terrain,. Can you also give me an idea of what you can cruise comfortably on pavement with the stock gearing in top gear? I've got some pavement to drone on a lot of times and would like a higher 6th than my KTM 250 XCFW ideally.
  12. Thanks for the review. When comparing it to your 350, does it "feel" lighter or heavier when riding? Which bike steers quicker? Does the motor pale in comparison to the 350? The new chassis on the KTM's I enjoy due to their precise steering, though they give up a bit on stability. Curious if the YZF chassis steers as quick? The motor sounds great in the Vid,
  13. Turborex696 - What were your previous bikes and where/what was the Yamaha better and worse and why than your previous rides? What video camera did you use? The sound sounded great, did you increase the volume on the video?
  14. Bump Curious if Sbest (steve) has some more input to the above questions.
  15. Interesting discussion. I've had a KTM 300 thermostat fail and a KTM 250 XCFw thermostat fail. The 300 one kept closed and overheated and boiled out my fluids in single track riding where the engine was not under a lot of load. I check my fluids before every ride and my rad caps are installed correctly and changed annually. I'm not a mechanic or even knowledgeable, just sharing my experience. No way I should of boiled in those conditions. When removing the thermostat on the trail is was stuck in the closed position, even post boiling. I had to gut the thermostat to get the water flow back on the trail to get me out of the jungle. Reliability is a first priority as my bikes are ridden faar away from anything resembling normal civilization and even out of country. I understand why they are needed in cooler temps or climates. I'm in SouthEast Asia where its usually 70F at the coolest during the winter months and 105F during the summer. If I never need the choke to start the motor and warm up the bike sufficiently (an assumption I understand) why would I risk suffering from a seizure as you depicted in my environment? Would the thermostat ever close during enduro riding in 80F? Just curious how cool the motor has to get in order to induce the thermostat closing? I can only imagine a downhill long enough to cool the engine sufficiently to induce a seizure upon reapplication of heavy loads on the motor would have to be Colorado mountains long and not the usual few hundred meters around here. Food for thought. I installed a high flow water pump impeller and noticed my fan (controlled with a thermoswitch) kicked on less often on the same trails. This indicates to me the higher flow of water decreased the temps (unless I'm mistaken). But this contradicts what you say about high water flow rates in the rads doing nothing. Why is that? I'm looking to learn here not argue, I just want to understand. However since I've had two failures myself and one other riding partner on his 300 had one also fail I;m seeing enough data points to not trust thermostats at this point. Thanks in advance.