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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018



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About wolfgang123

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    North Carolina
  1. Check the oil drain plug!!! these are easily over torqued and crack the case. I went through 3 craigslist bikes before i found one without JB weld around the drain plug.
  2. i use them as disposables too. Change every 2 or 3 rides.. I buy them when i can get them, they sell out quick
  3. in my eyes I hard the drill going slow a a snail. But oh well, the the coating missing from under the exhaust port i guess it needed to be replated anyways.
  4. more pictures for the sake of the thread. without the flash
  5. Well I suppose i goofed this one up, oh well. You live you learn right! Any recommendation on a shop to do cylinder re-plates? Also from the 5 minutes of research i have done so far it seems like a 295 kit or something similiar would only cost be a couple more bones. Thoughts on that option?
  6. one more thing, the "grinding marks" are VERY VERY enhanced by the camera flash. Not even close to looking that severe in person
  7. dang I never expected this much heat!! I watched a video on rocky mountain ATV you tube channel for rebuilding a cylinder on a yz250.. Did exactly what they did. apparently that was wrong? I haven't had a chance to read everyone's response. But i might just put her back together and see what happens. I have a sneaky feeling she needs more than a top end anyways I am going to more research before just going with it..but we will see
  8. Attached you will a picture of my cylinder. As part of the standard top end rebuild i used one of those cylinder hones with all the small balls on the end of it. Attached it to my drill at a slow speed and only for about 20ish seconds. Cleaned out the cylinder with brake clean and noticed this weird wear mark. I cant feel anything with my fingers but looking for some input before i reassemble. the mark is fairly easy to see in the picture, right below the exhaust port.
  9. It was around april of last year
  10. can you provide any quick links to this powervalve mod?
  11. I had the exact same problem!! Ended up cutting and re-welding that mount just a hair shorter after removing some material. My Q-stealth did not go on easy.. and i hate having to remove it and re-install.
  12. I had to grind the flange down on my q-stealth to fit It was too long to mount to the subframe. I had to take about 3/4 of an inch off it to make it fit.
  13. Yeah this is my 3rd shifter in 2 years. Looks like I only get about 6 months out of a shifter if im lucky. its a hammer head brand.. do you have any good recommendations for another brand?
  14. By "grind" i meant hand filed them and only slightly. I ride the bike like an old man for the most part and the tolerances with the clutch plates still seemed fine. Its not ideal but i think it will keep me rolling for a little while longer.
  15. So it seems I goofed up!! The shifter was tight but was stripped out. So when I tightened the shifter bolt it appeared tight. After actually taking 30 seconds to investigate i found out the think was completely stripped out which is what caused the movement. Purchased a new shifter and everything seems to be in order! I removed the clutch cover and installed a new clutch with my special mystery mix of oil (1 part lucas oil stabilizer, 1 part type F ATF, and 2 parts Rotella T6 0w-40). I did have to grind out some ridges in the clutch basket, i know thats usually a no-no but they weren't that bad and i know its the first (and only) time i will do it before replacing the basket. This seemed to fix my false neutral problem although i now think the loose shifter had alot to do with that aswell. Thanks for the help guys!