CA_trail_rider

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About CA_trail_rider

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    California
  1. Dirt Rider has some initial info http://www.dirtrider.com/features/first-look-2016-ktm-xcw-exc-and-freeride-off-road-models/
  2. So are you still running it or did you find a better alternative?
  3. Sir Thumpalot, I have 2012 500 EXC and notice how the fender seems to block the low beam significantly. Is it worst with this light or does the more abundant light make up for what the fender blocks? It seems the only real solution would be for light to mount higher, do any other lights do that?
  4. I feel a lot better knowing there are other high hour motors still running strong. I haven't checked the odometer setting yet but the prior owner did run 17" motard wheels for street so if its not set correctly i figure that's about 3,000 less miles.
  5. Haven't seen a used 500 EXC. Seen relatively good prices for XCW but don't want to deal with trying to license in CA. Pulled the trigger and bought it. Bike was clean, ran tight and had honorable owner. Price left room for rebuild and adding lots of extras before reaching lowest advertised price for new one. I'm not likely to put much time on it each season so may be awhile before I need to do anything. What would be warning signs when motor approaching need for rebuild?
  6. I'm looking at a 2012 500 EXC with 15,000 miles and 300 hours. The wear is mostly from street riding. I'm coming from an XR400 that is low maintenance and lasts forever. What potential problems should I inspect for on the 500 EXC and what service should I perform to know it will be reliable and stay that way?
  7. I have a 1996 and the only problem I've had is the transmission countershaft broke requiring a complete teardown. I got excellent advisement on this site to replace it with the 1999 countershaft that's 1MM bigger. It was about $300 in parts, luckily I was up for the challenge of doing the labor myself. The problem had to be common enough that Honda made the shaft upgrade so I'd recommend a 1999 or newer.
  8. Yes, that helps a lot. I appreciate everyone's patience with my thick head. It looks like I need to add preload back. The good thing is that it appears the spring isn't to stiff since I've been able to create so much sag. Thanks again to everyone who replied to my post.
  9. I took the measurements again. Lifting bike to fully extend the suspension I have 22" from axle nut to spark arrester rivet. Set bike down, hop up and down on it a couple times, get off bike and hold it straight and measurement is 19 1/8". Free sag is 22" - 19 1/8" = 2 7/8". Stand on foot pegs with someone holding bike straight and another person measuring is 16 3/8". Race sag is 19 1/8" - 16 3/8" = 2 3/4" (prior 3 1/2" was wishful thinking, I didn't have bike straight for all measurements). Double checked each measurement to be sure. The person helping me checked his bike using same method and his bike was 1" free sag and 3 1/2" race sag so it seems we used the correct process. Recap: Free sag 2 7/8" and race sag 2 3/4". I'd love to be wrong as I don't want any complications to getting my suspension properly set up. Please let me know what might be wrong with either my calculations or my suspension.
  10. I just remeasured my race sag with my feet on the pegs instead of the seat and I have 3 1/2". Free sag is still 2 7/8". So better but still not within spec.
  11. I just checked the sag on my 1996 XR400 and the fee sag is 2 7/8" and the race sag is 2 3/4" after backing the shock preload as much as I could. I weigh 185 lb. I bought the bike used in 1999 from someone smaller than me. I don't know if he had changed the spring, its yellow if that indicates anything. After all this time I'm getting around to adjusting the suspension. I just put .44 springs in the forks. I looked on the Race Tech site and it said the stock shock spring is 9.5 kg and ideal for 185 lb. Of course their calculator also said .50 kg would be the correct fork springs. The .44 springs I got from them were actually one .46 and one .42 spring and required a 1 1/2" spacer. I don't understand how they can be suspension specialists. Any ways back to my rear spring. Is my situation with the rear sag seem common for my weight? Should I get a softer rear spring and if so, what rate?
  12. The springs did come with spacer stock. I just measured the space between each coil and its about 9.5 mm (3/8") and there are 35 full coils so that would give me 332.5 mm of available travel less the 38mm preload spacer leaves me with 294.5mm of available travel versus the fork travel of 280mm which is gives a cushion of 14.5 mm (~1/2") before full coil bind. That seems cutting it pretty close but I don't know how that compares with the stock or Eibach springs. Do most people adjust ride height using the triple clamps versus preload? Also, does .44 seem right for my weight on tight trails and hills? With the Eibach I was looking at .43 but with Race Tech it was .42 or .44 and I'm tired of the front end diving on ruts and down hills so I went stiffer.
  13. I just picked up some Race Tech springs for my 1996 XR400 and I'm concerned about the length. They are only 472mm vs stock 510mm. That means I'm going to have to use spacers which seems like dead space to me versus full length springs. I had originally ordered the Eibach springs which are listed as 510mm but my shop had them back ordered and suggested the Race Tech. Now I've got the Race Tech (I'm 182 lb. and went with .44) and I'm wondering if I really want to keep them or send them back for the Eibach.
  14. The gearing is 15/47. The packing was good so I just removed the washers between the discs. That seemed to mellow the sound some. Have to hit the trails to see if any impact to low rpm. When I do that I'll bring my stock header so I can change it out and do a comparison.
  15. Will switching from a big exhaust to a stock exhaust when I have a high rpm cam provide better lugging or just aggravate performance due to a miss match in flow characteristics? If it will improve lugging do you think any rejetting will be necessary? When I bought my 1996 XR400 used in 1999 the previous owner had put a White Bros kit on it which consisted of a 1498 cam (similar to stage 3 cam), high compression piston (don't know what compression), heavier clutch springs and bigger head pipe (1 1/4" headers into 1 3/4" collector) into a Supertrapp T-102 spark arrestor (megaphone style with 10 discs including washers between two sets of discs). The jetting is #62 and #162. I ride trails and paramount to me is being able to lug it without stalling as I chart my way up a technical hill. I'm wondering if I switch back to the stock header and remove the washers between the discs if that will help or hurt lugging. I like the Supertrapp over the stock muffler because its way lighter but I'm repacking it and removing the washers to try to make it quieter. Three configurations I'm considering: Reduce discs Switch to stock head pipe Both In the long run, I'm also thinking of finding a stock cam. If I did this would I keep the big head pipe?