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InRoostWeTrust

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About InRoostWeTrust

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    Minnesota

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  1. InRoostWeTrust

    Re Spring EXC-F 500

    Maybe $125 for front springs and $160 for a rear spring... no labor/DIY. Call Slavens and provide them your stats, added bike options (i.e. larger fuel tanks), and ride style.
  2. InRoostWeTrust

    2018 500exc piston.

    Please, more pictures (piston & head) and an explanation of what was done to the bike since it was new.
  3. What's the best dependable battery? This is for a 500 with normal lights, fan, heated grips... Pass on those that requires a special charger... I'm okay with the AGM/acid, but there has to be something better, any weight reduction is a bonus, but not deciding based on weight. Thanks for any feedback!
  4. InRoostWeTrust

    92 DR350SE

    Drive metal or wood screws on each side of the metal part of the seal and pull with a claw hammer carefully...
  5. There should never be a need to 'add some more' if you minimally tracking what you put in during an oil change (hell, I measure what comes out too). I see adding oil to the filter and motor in one-shot while the bike is on its side as efficient. Also allows safety wiring all 3 oil dump plugs while the oil bottle drains. Wish I could do it on my 500 (doesn't have a flywheel plug). Go for it!
  6. I think you idea of filling the filter chamber AND motor while its on its side is efficient. As long as you fill the filter compartment (to prevent starving the motor from oil upon start-up) and the fly-wheel compartment quickly drains oil to the case compartment, I think its a viable oil filling routeen. A quick 1-time inspection of the oil galleries under the flywheel cover is all the proof I would need to see if this is a clean oil filling routeen.
  7. I cannot see why there would be any problem adding oil through the flywheel hole provided that motor chamber is open to the rest of the engine case. The magneto area has oil jets in there to keep things cool, so I can't see why this would be a problem - bikes on its side anyway...
  8. Tim, your bearing spacer (between the 2 bearings) was probably over tightened as some point and crushed the tube. The tube is what spaces the bearings, but if the tube is crushed the wheel hub is side-loading the bearings causing fast failure. When seating bearings, install one into hub, install spacer, then install 2nd bearing with bearing #1 supported (so you dont knock it out when installing the second bearing) use a flat tool that presses bearing on the OD and ID so that the bearing stops once the bearing lands on the spacer. Good luck!
  9. InRoostWeTrust

    2012 500 EXC Fan is Staying Running

    PS: KTM's Mask and fender changes btw '12 and '14 may have different fitment results with the cyclops bulb assembly.
  10. InRoostWeTrust

    2012 500 EXC Fan is Staying Running

    Awesome! Do me a favor and add some pictures of the Cyclops installed. I'm wanting to do the same but have heard the depth of the bulb housing runs too close to the steering stem area if frame nessesitating spacers of some sort to add room and for aiming it down so the light is usable - anxious see what's needed on an older model. Mine is a '14 500.
  11. Minimally swap the lighting and pump relay to see if that works - dont know your model, but there should be 2 relays that are identical on the clutch-side of battery (at least there is on 500exc & xc-w).
  12. You have a short somewhere that's feeding power to trigger the relay OR the relay is defective (bad internal spring thats suppose to hold it open with no power applied). I'd swap the relays (both are the same) and see if it still happens or just replace it to eliminate 1 of 2 possible reasons for the issue. You may need to unwrap the harness to see where the problem is - just allot of black electrical tape holding potted electrical junctions together under the tape. Also look for wire damage around where seat and fuel tank rests on the frame.
  13. InRoostWeTrust

    2012 500 EXC Fan is Staying Running

    The 'BECK/ARNLEY' brand info seems correct - I got mine at NAPA and dont recall the manufacture (the NAPA unit might be the Beck/Arnley unit). but any maker should suffice provided the temp range is verified. Once you cut the sensor off you can quickly spin the old one out and replace it with the new sensor - you may loose some fluid in the swap, but just pour it back in (if clean) or justify a reason to clean the rad system and replace coolant. I swapped mine with the upgraded BMW unit and Engine Ice moments after bringing my new bike home - I've read too much about sensor failures and corrosion to keep the stock KTM installed.
  14. InRoostWeTrust

    2012 500 EXC Fan is Staying Running

    If your fan turned-on with the bike cold, you either have bad temp switch or some other BAD wiring closing the circuit between the two temp switch conductors.
  15. InRoostWeTrust

    2012 500 EXC Fan is Staying Running

    The factory temp switch is a 100/95 C degree unit. For much less than KTM charges you can upgrade to a better quality 'accessory fan switch' for the '04 BMW 318i which is interchangeable with the KTM sensor and is available in several different heat ranges. The BMW sensor I 'think' used I is a 95/90 C switch (turns on a little earlier) - or turns on at 200F and off at 194F. The new switch has spade connections in place of the KTM's sealed unit, so I just cut the sensor off, added female spade connectors - reused the rubber shield and connected everything and potted the inside with silicone to waterproof. Recommended mod for all KTM's the use the stock cheesy sensor. You should first jump your fan plug to bypass the switch to make sure your switch circuit is live (and you don't have problems elsewhere). Hope this helps! Roost!
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