InRoostWeTrust

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About InRoostWeTrust

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  1. Some Kouba links on the rear linkage will make the rear end more progressive. The problem with stock is the steep pivot ratio build progression way too fast. Kouba links can be used for lowering, but if adjusted on the higher side with a proper spring for your weight, they greatly improve the rear suspension to help soak up bumps in sand and placing less harsh forces to the front end (forces that make your front wheel dive into sand whereas ride over it). With good aluminum (or steel) you can make your own - I forget how much to add in lenght, maybe 8-12mm?
  2. Here's a few links on the topic: http://ktmtalk.com/showthread.php?541585-New-version-of-Rotella http://ktmtalk.com/showthread.php?540988-Shell-Rotella-T-Oil-Line-2017-Revised-Formula-and-Clutch-Slippage&highlight=rotella
  3. There is chat recently that rekluse doesn't recomend some of the Rotella oils any longer due to a recent reformulatuon of the oils for new hi-efficiency diesel trucks - it was noted also that some of the JASO type certifications have changed. Many are saying 'RIP' Rotella, its been a good long ride, but they are not using it any longer. I don't run Rotella in my bikes, so I have not researched the details, but have started using it in small engines around the house based on all the years of praise from bikers about the product. Roost!
  4. AirBoss, Those pumps DO have their brushes exposed to the fuel (for cooling too) - in the lack of air, it would not be a hazard, but get too low on fuel and hopefully there isn't enough oxygen in that area to support combustion. I like the idea of a brush-less motor too - powerful, probably more efficient, and less items to wear or get hot. Fuel keeps all in-tank fuel pumps cooled, that's why you shouldn't let your car's tank go to E too often.
  5. Rumor has it that the filters turn black due to the fuel pump motor brushes. I find this odd that brushes wear at a rate to cause quick filter discoloration, but it is what it is. I wonder how many other fuel pump systems share this design. Roost!
  6. For the EBC CT023 Tool, I found it will fit on the following bikes (below): Looks like it will fit yours! I'd buy it on Ebay for maybe $17USD with free shipping... Roost! Fitment for EBC Clutch Hub Tool - CT023 Dennis Kirk Part 283327 fits the following machines KTM 2015 KTM 350 EXC-F 2014 KTM 350 EXC-F 2013 KTM 350 EXC-F 2012 KTM 350 EXC-F 2015 KTM 350 SX-F 2014 KTM 350 SX-F 2013 KTM 350 SX-F 2012 KTM 350 SX-F 2011 KTM 350 SX-F 2015 KTM 350 XC-F 2014 KTM 350 XC-F 2013 KTM 350 XC-F 2012 KTM 350 XC-F 2011 KTM 350 XC-F 2016 KTM 350 XCF-W 2015 KTM 350 XCF-W 2014 KTM 350 XCF-W 2013 KTM 350 XCF-W 2012 KTM 350 XCF-W 2016 KTM 350 XCF-W Six Days 2011 KTM 450 SX-F 2010 KTM 450 SX-F 2009 KTM 450 SX-F 2008 KTM 450 SX-F 2007 KTM 450 SX-F 2009 KTM 450 XC 2008 KTM 450 XC 2010 KTM 525 XC 2009 KTM 525 XC 2008 KTM 525 XC
  7. No gasket, just an o-ring. When ordering new dampers also get the hub basket nut lock washer - you could reuse yours, but why for how cheap they are. I'd advise getting a clutch basket holding tool: EBC Tool #CT023 to help with loosening/tightening the clutch hub nut. I do my dampers every year to keep things quiet and allows me to inspect the clutch parts at the same time. Its easy, just keep tabs of everything and keep your clutch disks in order. Roost!
  8. I think he meant that the 450 has the same bore as the 500, but the 500 has a longer stroke...
  9. Well, if you went out riding again after posting picture #1 2 days ago with discolored coolant, and riding solo... my opinion is you are not very privy at identifying that you have a problem needing attention before more damage happened.
  10. As Cobra46 noted, the leak down test is where you should start - this will tell if you have pumping efficiency losses cased by leaking piston rings (listen through oil filler hole), and any other leakage issues like leaks though the exhaust valves (listen though the muffler or pipe, or leaks through the intake valves (listen through airbox boot). If you find you have too much leakage around the piston rings, you may not 'need' a new piston, but if need new rings you will also likely need a new or replated cylinder because of the wear ridge of the top of the cylinder. Installing new rings in an old cylinder commonly expedites the wear of the rings when the new rings hit the wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. Cylinder plating generally cannot be re-honed to remove the wear ridge at the top of the cylinder or to remove the 'glaze' without highly specialized equipment. If the cylinder is indeed reusable, generally most just skuff-up the cylinder (at an angle) using a Scotch Bright pad to help remove the 'glaze'. People will say you can just hone, and some may get lucky, but generally it won't work or your new rings will suffer a much shorter life if you only replace only the rings and re-purpose your old cylinder. If you particular about your motor and want to make sure its right, bring your cylinder and piston into a professional and have it measured. Best of luck on your project!
  11. Pre mixing any oil in a 4-stroke (or 2-stoke) actually leans out your fuel to air mixture. Adding oil to fix a lean ECU map won't help, it will actually make it more lean.
  12. You can use the supplied fitting that came with the tank, or upgrade to the 90 degree fuel fitting (purchase the proper 90 degree fitting for the thinner Acerbis tank or thinner KTM SX tanks) - this fitting is less prone to getting snagged by a branch when riding than the original fitting or the fitting that came with your new tank. For hose clamps, use fuel injection rated hose clamps or better yet, invest in Oetiker style clamps. You'll need 2 different sizes of clamps - those for the external fuel lines and a smaller clamp when exchanging the in-tank fuel filter (which you should do while its all apart). I can't find the clamp size needed, otherwise I'd note it... search ThumperTalk or KTMTalk. For the 90 degree fitting (needed separate parts or 'kit'), here is some part numbers for ordering purposes: 2013-2016 SX-F / XC-F (Thin Tank) - If purchasing only separate parts (no O-rings), you need both of these: 7900 709 0000 Fitting for XPW-Tank (Banjo Bolt / $5.92 @ Munn Racing) 7900 708 9100 Fuel Connector (90 degree fitting with hose nipple / $13.64 @ Munn Racing) 90 Degree Fitting ‘Kits’ - I think these kits come with new O-rings too. Thick tank (EXC/XCF-W) Connection Set 7900 719 0044 ($27.29 @ Munn) Thin Tank (XC/SX/Aftermarket) Connection Set 7900 709 0144 ($27.37 @ Munn) Good luck! Roost!
  13. Just to clarify, yes, cam chain sprockets - just the same wear behavior as your drive chain and sprockets. As the chain wears and stretches, so do the sprockets-
  14. And sprockets- doing one without the other is pointless.
  15. I'd also dump the oil (inspect oil and cut oil filter open for metal debris), then pull magneto cover off and look for debris at the bottom of the case and any steel debris caught on the flywheel magnet and coils (magnatisum of these parts can catch garbage). Garbage is more of a sign of problems in other places than a problem itself. Another check is your valve rockers for correct play/clearance. Check rocker shafts for wear also - you can have correct valve clearance with worn out rocker shafts.