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InRoostWeTrust

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About InRoostWeTrust

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    Minnesota

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  1. InRoostWeTrust

    Ktm 300.

    This bike could also be XR110 too from a similar post a few days ago when looking at his past posts.
  2. InRoostWeTrust

    Ktm 300.

    In Russia, we have no mud so I envy you - but if we did have mud and water, I'd place a higher likelyhood that you got some electrical connections wet. Some fuel vent lines could also be clogged, but I drought this is your primary problem. The original post, and his posts thereafter are poorly framed so this could go anywhere...
  3. InRoostWeTrust

    swollen clutch membrane

    Spud, I learned from reading KTM posts (and the hard way years ago with a '88 Ducati that I got to work w/o back bleeding after 45 minutes) that the KTM needs a back bleed with a big syringe (filled before hooking onto the bleeder) - it takes some force, but not too bad. Push fluid up, close bleeder valve, and suck out fluid from the master reservoir. Repeat several times until the lever feels solid from start to finish. As overkill, I removed the slave and pushed on the piston a few times to dislodge any remaining bubbles up on the master (some small amount of bubbles/foam did did come up from the white plastic doohickey at the bottom of the master reservoir). Mines rock solid now, but I'll always worry about that piston oring (i.e. looking for better material/quality, or a dual ring solution)... along with the 75 other things that worry me that may fail out in the middle of nowhere. I'm amazed at how long your seal stayed intact (and low reports on failures from others). Here is a close up of old oring and oil removed from the system...
  4. InRoostWeTrust

    A couple of new upgrades for my 500exc

    Cool helmet!
  5. InRoostWeTrust

    dr350se wont rev past 4000rpm

    The CDI (computer) may have been damaged when bike was running without battery... I'd need to do more reading on how the system is designed to know if thats possible.
  6. InRoostWeTrust

    dr350se wont rev past 4000rpm

    Check to make sure the rubber boot under the black plastic cover on the carb isn't torn or leaking - this will prevent the vacuum slide throttle plate from opening. Based on no mention of backfiring or popping, my guess is the carb might not be letting in air to allow rev's to build. Did anything get damaged on the flywheel side electrical coils when you tightened it and broke the cover? I'd think it woundn't run if any coils were damaged as any ignition advance is handled by the CDI. If you are getting popping or blubbering at higher engine rev's, then it could be more to do with the jets (dirt or wrong jets) in the carb. Keep us posted!
  7. InRoostWeTrust

    In-Tank Fuel Filter

    The fuel pressure regulator unit (mounts to the rear of the tank opposite from the pump) vents off unused fuel volume - is the mist/flowage coming from the regulator? A test using a homemade fuel pressure tester wull tell you if you have a pressure diminishing leak or if you are getting the required 50-53 psi of fuel pressure.
  8. InRoostWeTrust

    swollen clutch membrane

    Pretty shocking the condition of the oring ain't it? I still need to get the proper size of that oring for finding non-oem options. Sure wish the piston had 2 orings like some of the aftermarket slave units.... The ripped piston seal could be from the sharp corner of the oil galley hole in the engine case (at the lower 7 o'clock position of the case for the slave). I recall my slave didn't want to come out easy when the piston seal was dry.
  9. InRoostWeTrust

    '06 525 EXC chain question

    You HAVE TO remove the rear shock and manually move the swingarm through its full movement and make sure the chain has some slick at its tightest point - tightest point typically is when the rear axle is in-line with the sprocket center but some times chain guides can influence the tighest spot found. Without doing this task you run the risk of fouling your chain, sprockets, rear wheel hub, main output shaft (and seal), and possible engine case breakage. I need 38-39mm slack when measured btw swingarm and underside of chain when measured behind the front chainguide @ 14/52 gearing. Read the manual too...
  10. Battery Tenders have caused the fuel pump to cycle in some cases so I've read on many forums. Best to disconnect the ground strap or cables if this happens. Mine doesn't do it ('14 500 xcw). You are not the same gman from the old DR forums of years past are you?
  11. InRoostWeTrust

    swollen clutch membrane

    Thats the OEM O-ring from the slave cylinder. It was working perfectly before my thoughts of performing overkill maintanance on it this winter. The break fluid (not mineral oil) was changed every year also as maintenance too. Spud, once the slave is unbolted, the piston just popped out like you said it would (referencing a differenent/earlier post about extracting the piston from the slave bore). A few squeezes of the master pushes out the slave piston if the master fluid reservoir is full. Once the piston is withdrawn, the small amount of oil in the slave will pour out and mine had a few particulates likely from the oring. The slave piston bore and piston itself looked smooth and had no wear, so a new oring was installed followed by back bleeding the system until normal operation was regained. I've done some reading on different oring materials and EPDM seem to be the standard used everywhere including break calipers, but I'm still looking for other options regardless of cost. Break fluid in DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 oil are glycol based oils. The oring needs to be rated for the temperature range and static (still) and dynamic (moving) sealing action. If I can't find any better oring materials, I will try getting a batch of EPDM orings Fluorinated - this is a special chemical process done with fluourene gas (probably the most deadly gas known) to chemically alter the top layer of the plastic - suppose to work very well on orings for wear and chemical resistance. They use it on small engine fuel tanks, varius auto store chemicals that tend to leach through the bottle walls over time - I had my new Acerbis tank coated before use to prevent discoloring, and so far so good at 4000+ miles since early 2015 - this process is not easy to have done, but I know a guy. If anyone finds a better option keep us all posted. If I get a batch of orings coated, I'll have enough to share with those interested - I'll post any updates. Roost!
  12. InRoostWeTrust

    swollen clutch membrane

    I for one am not comfortable with the type/longevity of the clutch slave O-ring... 4000 miles and my o-ring looked pretty rough and had bits of rubber floating around in the slave. I'm looking at other material O-rings, chemical treatments for the seal, or a slave that runs more than one o-ring. I'd hate to loose a clutch 200 miles away from the truck...
  13. InRoostWeTrust

    Fuel Stabilization

    Home Depot sells canned VP or other brands of real fuel that basically lasts forever. Used in weedwhips, and there is premixed versions for the homeowners who don't know how to mix gas. Its an option.
  14. InRoostWeTrust

    Fuel (pilot) screw, '99 DR350SE- ???

    Yup, thats a stock CV carb. I too added Dellorto pumper's to my old Ducati Paso 750... the germans and italians called the pumpers 'tickelers' - it sure tickled the sole when ya get on the gas! Best of luck with the DR!
  15. InRoostWeTrust

    Fuel (pilot) screw, '99 DR350SE- ???

    I also wonder if it is the stock carb on your SE or if someone changed it... if used, I'd need a picture of the carb to ID it. If the carb was changed, that may be part of the reason why the fuel screws look different. One way or the other, the aftermarket adjustable fuel screw uses the stock spring, and oring in both the stock CV (BST) carb and common upgrade (or dirt version TM33 carb).
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