ClutchSmoke

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About ClutchSmoke

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  1. Aw, it'll be alright Ed. What won't be alright though, is letting the little cliques grow on this site to the point where they interfere with the pushing of products, while they get all hostile with everyone that doesn't toe their little party line.
  2. The AMA and the FIM are moving away from 450cc 4-strokes for off-road competition. The new AMA rules that apply to the Amateur MX in the USA allows 250cc 2-strokes to be pitted against 250cc 4-strokes. 125cc 2-strokes are now in a class of their own. And there is an open class, where you can run what you brung. The net result of this is the 2-stroke will come back pretty quickly in the US. A rider can show up at the races and compete effectively in the open class with a 250cc 2-stroke, and still line up against the 250cc 4-strokes and lay waste to them in the 250cc class. One bike, both classes, a fraction of the cost. Now in Europe, the FIM has changed the classes to EXCLUDE the 450cc 4-strokes, and limit capacity to 350cc 4-strokes and 250cc 2-strokes. The 250cc 2-strokes will compete very effectively against 350cc 4-strokes, as they are an even match. Several factors have been unofficially attributed to this change. 1. The prohibitive initial purchase and operating costs of the 450cc 4-strokes have put the sport into a severe downturn. 2. The noise issues created by competition use only 4-strokes have closed many riding areas, and hurt the sport considerably. 3. 450cc 4-strokes are more powerful than even RickyC and BubbaS need for competition, as they are constantly saying how they actually "de-tune" them for better rideability and milder, more useful power. 4. The 450's are still too heavy and less nimble in the turns, while allowing the rider to accelerate and clear massive sections of the track. This aspect diminishes competition between the riders, widens the talent gap, and makes for processional, boring races... Not to mention that it also is creating more serious injuries of the spinal nature (from huge jump get-offs.) Just some observations. Brian Bosch probably learned a lesson in all of this... Don't rely on the AMA as a dependable entity in which to base your business decisions. THUMPERtalk indeed! How unfortunate. Don't feel bad though, as the number of people burned by the AMA are legion. And who knows what forces were behind the "old" AMA (pre-2008 ama)? Honda imposing their will???
  3. 13/48 gearing? Gee, you think it can pull it?
  4. Here in 'Merica, I use Loctite 680. (Similar to 638, applies to similar tolerances/gaps.) My experience with CS system failure on my DR-Z came about when it puked most of its oil on the interstate at full throttle, while only a few yards in front of an 18 wheeler. When I noticed the problem I almost crashed on the exit ramp, because the rear tire was completely basted with Rotella. After that, I got the 680. I figured "better safe, than sorry." Happy New Year! Time to shoot off the artillery.
  5. Well if that is the case, you'd better completely disassemble the entire engine. You never know, it could be something else besides piston slap... Like Jimmy Hoffa hiding in there with a ball peen hammer. Do the right thing and save Jimmy!
  6. That "dink" sound is known as piston slap. It is perfectly normal on the DR-Z, due to the short skirt on the piston. Search: piston slap I wouldn't go out of my way to make it slap constantly, (cracking the throttle from idle often will cause it,) but over the years no evidence of damage has been reported that can be solely attributed to it.
  7. Isn't the "Dark Side" the side that has neither fire in the cylinder, nor light from the headlight? I hear there's a lot of repairs over there. Looks purdy tho.
  8. I believe the air leaving the pilot air jet "atomizes" the fuel in the pilot air jet, rather than emulsifies it. An emulsion is a thick fluid suitable for coating. Perhaps this would be possible with liquid oxygen, and it probably would burn very powerfully due to its density. Perhaps I'll go out to the garage and chip some oxygen into my gas tank to run an experiment. It is certainly cold enough today for oxygen to freeze.
  9. Hey, I pushed my bike 16 miles once. That means I got 1,280,000MPG. I'm awesome, aren't I?
  10. I'm not going to put too much effort into this, but... Sure, it is possible under certain circumstances to achieve extreme gas mileage. This is not a case of me not believing you Greg, and I am not calling you a liar. My responses are coming more from the fact that when you present your (extremely high) gas mileage, you seldom mention any caveats... Such as, stripped down bike, low rider weight, riding like a nancyb'.... um... uh... like a mature individual. I know there are club of dudes out there that take Honda Civics and Toyota Corollas and stretch their mileage to obscene levels, by employing unusual driving methods. Ridge riding, drafting, coasting, etc... Sure, extreme gas mileage can be accomplished, if that is what you really want to do. Hell push the car/bike if you really want great mileage. The main thing here is... Somewhere back in this thread a total newbie mentioned that he's confused by the figures presented. "30-60MPG?", he asks. (Really it is 30-70 including you, Greg.) Obviously those that are getting 30MPG are running below E gearing, possibly ethanol blend, probably WFO all the time, etc. Maybe a FAQ about DR-Z gas mileage is long overdue? Perhaps this is info that many would welcome? A FAQ dedicated to how gas blends, jetting, terrain, tires, riding styles, temperature, and everything else applies to gas mileage.
  11. I believe once you get below 20F you've got to pay attention to jetting for cold weather. Won't idle, won't run without choke on, pops, bogs? I've ridden in below zero weather, but I don't recommend it. It has to be hard on your motor at start up. The materials that make up your combustion chamber have to be at pretty tight tolerances when they are 230F degrees below their operating temperature. Things to think about, if you really care about your bike's well being. Also, there is the small matter of enjoying the ride. It is not too much fun once you get below the twenties Fahrenheit, the single digits suck, and anything below zero is just plain eats into your fun. When you get annoyed because the leather on your gloves gets stiff enough from the cold, that you get cramps, and then your fingers start to get frostbite... Eh. You probably know what I'm talkin' about being as you are from Alaska.
  12. Things break once they've worn out.
  13. Wet blanket here... to offer an alternate view. The stock seat is actually pretty good in my opinion... It has: Good material - just the right amount of grip. Nice foam - firm, yet with a plush depth when the throttle is WFO Perfect contour - The 4 Japanese manufacturers know how to shape a seat for WFO Good fitment - Don't have to worry how it'll fit Looks good - Who can argue 'bout the stock saddle's looks? and best of all... CHEAP - thanks to all the candy asses that buy aftermarket seats.
  14. If you like to waste money, you could probably go up one size to a 5.7/5.8kg spring for typical trail riding and light motocross. If you want to do bigger jumps and ride around on a supercross style track, with a lot of steep jumps, skyshots, and tall square edged whoops then you could go up two steps to the 6kg spring. HOWEVER... I wouldn't bother. If you aren't bottoming your bike occasionally, then you are running an unnecessarily stiff suspension. Many people don't understand this fact, and flip out if their bike bottoms even once in a blue moon. Unless it bottoms so hard that it snaps the swingarm linkage, breaks your wrists, or bounces your helmet off your crossbar (happens, and I've had my helmet get stuck on my handlebars while trippling and doubling on a downhill,) then you don't really need to change the spring. Those charts are very subjective anyway. What works for standard Joe Blow Supercross wannabe, would never work for someone like say... Ryan Hughes. He'd be bottoming that bike all over the place simply with the speed he hits the faces of the jumps, even though he's probably lighter, and the chart says he can get by with a 5.3kg. IMO, these are thing to worry about on your "competition only" bikes. Not the DR-Z. In fact, high-speed trail/desert riding creates situations where you may be better off with a slightly soft suspension. You know, when it is getting dark and you're doing 80mph and accidentally hit that kicker in the road, which throws you up on the front wheel, where you wobble around for a good 100 yards with your feet off the pegs, and pray to your god that you swear you'll let off the throttle if he just helps you save it this one time...