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Bishops Finger

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  1. Bishops Finger

    Think I want a Husaberg 570, KTM 530, or the like?

    40hrs between oil changes? Don't forget that these motors only run about a litre of oil. The oil, therefore, gets worked hard. So use the best and change every 15 hours or so. BF
  2. Bishops Finger

    Charging problems

    I wasn't massively fussed about changing the battery as I'd had four years out of the original item (although it was still performing well). The replacement is a Varta but I noticed it is in an identical (and I mean identical) case to the OE battery. Bought from MDS Battery in Enfield. I ran all the tests from the workshop manual but missed the test for windings to ground only because I didn't see it (I must need new glasses!) I'll pull the cover off tonight and look a bit closer. BF
  3. Bishops Finger

    Charging problems

    Neil, Jim's battery was $35!! I'll have to pull the cover off an see if there's anything in there that shouldn't be. Otherwise, as you say, it sounds like some new windings will be next! BF
  4. Bishops Finger

    Charging problems

    Well it wasn't the battery after all - I still have the problem! So: Charging voltage is about 12.5v (too low) The old battery appeared to be OK, but it now has a brand new one anyway I have two regulator/rectifiers - both have been tested on another DR-Z and work fine I get around 90v AC from each winding of the generator on the no-load test The fuse is good When everything is switched off, the battery drain is about 5mA (clock?) The resistance between generator windings (yellow-to-yellow) is about 1.1 ohms (as per book) The resistance between each winding and earth is about 1 ohm (book says infinity ohms) - what's causing this? BF
  5. Bishops Finger

    Charging problems

    In the end it was a dud battery, but, like Jim, the Optimate said that the battery was fine - indeed it was fine for normal day-to-day road use. Unlike Jim, my new battery cost £39 (US$79) BF
  6. Bishops Finger

    Charging problems

    I'm afraid that your links have been abreviated and don't work! I was referring to a "replacement" R/R. Rather than start modifying the bike, I'd first like to restore it as it was. It's a 2003 bike and has performed very well until now. I'll look at the mod in due course, but there's already a problem that I want to fix first. BF
  7. Bishops Finger

    Charging problems

    During my last weekend's Peak District ride , my DR-Z's cranking speed got slower and slower during the day until it wouldn't start on the button halfway up Chapelgate. At home on Sunday I charged the battery and ran the following tests: Engine off, headlamp & tail-lamp on for 2 minutes, battery voltage 12.1v No significant current leakage from battery with all systems off Engine running, battery voltage 12.5v (should be 13.5-15.0v) indicating no charging All three generator coils showing around 1 ohm resistance (as per OE spec) Engine running, voltage across any two generator coils is over 80v AC (as specification) Continuity between regulator output wires and battery confirmed OK So that would tend to suggest that the regulator/rectifier has gone west. Acquired a 'good' replacement off Fleabay, but it makes no difference. Q: Have I got two dud regulator/rectifiers or is the problem elsewhere? BF
  8. It could also be the chain! BF
  9. Hmm, that's interesting! I'm not using the OEM 15 tooth but still have it and will compare the OD with the Renthal that I also have. BF
  10. I was actually looking for a picture of the B&B case-saver - it's the one I use! However, unless they have modified the design since I bought mine, it does NOT fit with a 15 tooth sprocket. Coincidentally, it happens to be made in Australia! BF
  11. I wasn't talking about the standard sprocket cover - yes, that will go over a 15 tooth sprocket, but offers next to no protection. I was referring to something like this: These are generally only for 13 or 14 tooth sprockets. BF
  12. If you use a 15 front sprocket, you cannot fit the pretty essential case saver which stops rocks punching their way through the engine casing when they get tagged on the chain. Use a 14 tooth sprocket and adjust your gearing using the rear. BF
  13. Bishops Finger

    Why's my bike making a strange noise?

    Dez You'll new a new chain; rear chain guide and a r/h engine cover gasket. All up, that lot was about £45 IIRC. You'll also need some engine oil, antifreeze and a new oil filter to do a proper job. Undoing the primary nut on the end of the crank (it's l/h thread BTW) is a bit of a game, but, first time, it's a day's work. If I were doing it again, probably about 2-3 hours. BF
  14. Bishops Finger

    cam chain change !

    Packman I just did the job on my regular DR-Z. I'd say that you should also change the rear chain guide. That's the one that wears and is quite easy to replace. The front guide can't be changed unless you take the head off. Drain the fluids and set the engine at TDC. Remove the cams and your MCCT. Remove brake lever and the right hand engine cover (no need to remove the clutch cover first). Undo the big nut on the end of the crank. It's left-hand thread. You want it in 5th gear, with the rear brake on and another socket on the generator end of the crank. Then remove the clutch plates and basket. This give full access to the cam chain and guide. Watch that you don't lose the Woodruff Key on the crank when you pull the chain and sprocket off. Rebuilding is also straightforward. You'll almost certainly need a new gasket for the engine cover. I used a drop of Loctite on the crank nut (although the book doesn't specify). Check and recheck the cam timing before you crank the engine. BF
  15. Bishops Finger

    Why's my bike making a strange noise?

    Yes I think you're right. I haven't done the MCCT, but it's had a new chain and rear guide and all is now well. BF