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About Dauntless

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    Sri Lanka
  • Interests
    Big game fishing and trail riding

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  1. Hi Guys returning to the forum after a few years. great to see the new look I got a 99 JDM XR250. With the electric leg, digi speedo and factory 55w headlight etc. Bike has been sitting for a few years after arround the country trip. Planning on bringing her back to life cos there are few things that needs fixing. Once blew two valves after a hard revving run and that damaged the head a bit. i gave the bike to a pro but after getting the bike back, there was a bit of blue smoke present. which was never there before. Did a clutch replacement at home ended up cracking the clutch housing and the engine case. JB weld is holding it without leaks so far. Rear shock has gone soft on me and there are no speaclists in Sri Lanka who can do a revalving job. So she needs a new rear shock too. It also need a full paint job and new meter. Finally got hold of a factory manual apart from the not so great haynes manual i was relying on al these years. I was thinking of doing all this DIY which is where the question comes I have fair bit of tools and some working knowledge on mechanics but have never worked on a 4 stroke motor. Is it wise idea to try and do this sorta repair at home relying on commmon sense and a factory repair manual? I'm in no big hurry so can spend some time learning bits. Just to detail out on the things i thought of fixing Engine 280kit - Xr's only or is there a better option? oil cooler off an xr 400? if it's needed "new" clutch cover from the breakers. "new" engine center block thing from the breakers. dunno the proper name for it but this housing was cracked when i over tighterened a clutch housing bolt complete gasket kit Read online that honda factory valves and springs aren't any good. Should i replace em and if so, which brand? While i have everything opened up, thought of droppign in new bearings too. is it better to replace the cam chain and is there anything else to look out for and replace? Kick starter assembly - thought of adding this if i can source a full assembly from the breakers. My bike only has the electric leg. Carb New jets to work with the 280, I run a supertrapp ear pipe with 10 discs at the moment. Have the stock pipe with me too gasket kit Body Front brake caliper rubber washer kit (i did a cut paste job just to get it going for the trip) steering stem top seal - shop guys have installed the top seal on the bottom steering bearings - not worn but might as well replace starter relay (tried cleaning, no luck. relay needs a tap to work) Speedo - thinking of trailtech vapor with RPM counter and engine temp sensor - my current factory digi speedo aint working front brake reservoir - observation glass is not clear, if that alone can be replaced it's super rear brake disc guard - factory plastic one broke off Rear brake light (fallen off) shorty levers brush guards handle grips Got an oil leak near the place where the horn bracket is welded into the frame. Suppose it's a factory error and the weld punctured into the oil reservoir. Tried welding it a few time but no luck so far. Gotta somehow plug that leak. Suspension "new" rear shock from the breakers. Hopefully off a newer bike front forks to be rebuilt with new seals, oil etc. Paint Need to paint the frame, all the plastics and and the motor. Got a compresor and a paint gun. Any tips on painting an XR would be highly appreciated Tools I have a few air tools, wrenches, sockets and stuff... what i thought i would need to buy for the project... Feeler gauge, Torque wrench (not to crack anymore casings) Bearing puller, carb adjusting tool I mostly ride on road with mixed offroad bits. Say 70% road and 30% pretty hard offroad. And most of the trips involve a good 4-5 hours of straight running. So wondering if a 280kit will have reliability issues and overhearing issues etc Plan on doing this all slowly as a long running weekend project will document the process when i get started. Apprecaite any thoughts, input and share experiences If engine work in too hard to sort out DIY, can get a shop to sort it out. But i'd prefer to give it a shot if it isn't super complicated. Thanks for your time folks and sorry for the super long post.
  2. hey all sory for posting loads of threads recently getting my bike back to ship shape after 3 years... Got everything running good after struggling days and days with the bloody fuel screw Now she rides fine and all is well except when i ride over rough terrain at high speeds... Then it stalls and dies. If i hit the magic button after coming to a stop she fires right up. Sometimes can drop the clutch and re-start on the fly. Doesn't happen when i ride fast on tarmac doesn't happen riding at 40-60kmh on rough terrain... ANy thing around 80k and over on bad roads and she dies... Bloody annoying Any ideas boys... I checked the sparkplug socket thing and it's fitting nice and tight. Theb bike is a JDM spec so i don't think it's got a ressistor to go bad. I'm pretty sure it's some kinda loose wiring somewhere but most of em appear to be in ship shape
  3. Dauntless

    96 XR 250 stalling after high speed runs

    00.30hrs here and i think i found the problem the new sparky i installed has it's ceramic insulator cracked. Quite possibly when i installed it. Cleaned up and installed the old sparky but gotta wait till morning to fire her up. cant wake up the neighbours with my supertrapp with 10 discs on
  4. Hi all just returned after a night ride on my xr250. She ran perfectly fine when the speeds were 60 and under...engine was firing properly and it wouldn't miss a beat. On a straight stretch i reached little over 100Kmh...Still ran strong with plenty more throttle left but after slowing down from that speed...The engine started to stall. I managed to keep it going by keeping the revvs up but even still the firing was uneven. Crawled back home and it was missing like it was starving of fuel or like the plug wasn't firing properly. The motor wouldn't run properly even after i came home and had it idling. Very rough idle and it would die if revvs are not kept up what gives? I have a new sparky in there. Also i have some oil going through my valve seals as the bike smokes a bit after sitting in for a few days. I'm guessing it's something to do with the sparky... no idea what exactly it is... any ideas guys?
  5. Dauntless

    Sticky Front Disc brakes, 96 XR250

    Thanks Red The longer pin was the one that had rust on it...other one was fine. Cleaner up the rust with a wire brush and some steel wool. Looks to be ok so i'm gonna put this one on and see how it goes. THe dust boots got badly damaged when i was trying to get the caliper come off. Couldn't find replacements here so jerry rigging some boots off a car to fit until i get a set shipped down. Boomman I have never greased the front brake pins hence the hassle now I've read that you can use automotive CV joint grease or any other high temp grease. I'm gonna either use CV joint grease on this or a high temp bearing grease i have at home...
  6. Dauntless

    xr 250 electric start?

    yeah...sorting out the jetting is something that seems to be quite tricky. I own a jap domestic model 96 XR250S. Run a supertrapp ear with 10 discs on stock jetting. opened up the fuel screw 1/4 turn from stock setting so hopefully i'm not running lean. Sparkplug shows that my fuel mixture is where it should be, i think But the bike stalled yesterday day when i was riding fast on hard terrain...refused to start up for a while. after meddling with the choke, fuel petcock i got her to fire up I got the Keihin VE88 CV carb, think they are more street oriented
  7. Dauntless

    Sticky Front Disc brakes, 96 XR250

    Thanks red47403 I did horrible things to the caliper before it gave in and came off Made up my mind to get a new one if a busted the one i had so...cut the seals out, sprayed loads of wd40, heated it up and after lots of hammering it came apart... The pins had got rusted in place so they were not budging let alone sliding... Will be greasing them pins eachtime i change pads from now on and save the trouble
  8. Dauntless

    Sticky Front Disc brakes, 96 XR250

    anybody???? searched the forum, googled, youtubed and got nothing
  9. Dauntless

    Sticky Front Disc brakes, 96 XR250

    I think my caliper is frozen with the caliper bracket. caliper pins must've dried out... how can i seperate the bracket from the caliper...they don't appear to be held by any bolts but it's pretty darn tough to get them apart....what am i doing wrong?
  10. hi all. got my bike out of my garage after 3 years so had to fix up quite a bit of things. I live close to the sea so bad things happen fast Got a few issues sorted but the latest hurdle i can't seem to clear is my front brakes not properly releasing itself after being applied. I stripped the caliper up to see what was wrong...found one of the cylinders to be stuck. it would come out when brakes are applied but wouldn't go back in... so with the help of a compressor and a c-clamp i managed to force out both cylinders. cleaned up the oxidations and gunk, put new seals and assembled everything back. brakes apply fine but still the pads are getting stuck and not releasing...I have brand new pads, new oil, new seals... what can be the problem now???? as far as i can see...the disc is straight and don't see it dragging only in selected spots... caliper is mounted straight... Other than bad seals/pistons or a crooked disc...what else can cause a sticky brakes??? appreciate any help guys... I gotta a 7 day ride coming up and don't want to take the chance of riding with sticky brakes
  11. Dauntless

    xr 250 electric start?

    yeah...i too would go with coopz first reply and get the jetting sorted. I have a jdm xr250 with the electric leg only...and even that would refuse to start if the jetting is off or you got the fuel/air mixture wrong... Until a few hours ago..i was having a real tough time getting the bike started cos my fuel screw setting was off... Now she fires right up
  12. thanks for the reply creeky! Yes the fuel screw was installed properly. I have the manual in jap and followed the diagrams removed the carby again last night adjusted the fuel screw 2.5 turns out from slightly seated position and now she fires up after a few tries. Rode it and she runs ok without any noticeable issues. feel the power is a tad bit less though...and when gassing there seems to be a bit of a lag... Bikes fires up without choke and any effort when engine is warm cold start is a bit of a hassle. you think the carby is still running lean? hope that bloody motion pro adjuster thing gets to me soon
  13. Hi all I've been struggling to get my bike running after completely cleaning up the the carby. The fuel screw adjustment is really driving me up a wall Bike refused to start earlier without full choke but managed to sort that out. Now she starts up after a bit of a struggle but cuts out when you throttle down... throttle up is fine... But starting it up is very tough. Everything except for the fuel screw is checked and sorted. No air leaks etc. I don't have the proper tool to adjust the fuel screw while the carb is attached cos this model comes with the electric leg and the motor sits right under the carb. I tried the 2 turns our from a roughly seated fuel screw...no joy tried about 4 turns out...no joy again... Does anybody know the stock setting for this carby? Bike ran perfectly fine with the stock setting all these years until i removed the damn fuel screw for cleaning I've ordered the motion pro tool but it will take time to get here...I have a 6 day ride coming up and gotta get the bike running properly appreciate any help
  14. Dauntless

    96 JDM XR250 runs only with full choke :(

    Thanks all for the pointers. Got her fixed and now she runs fine. there is a slight popping when you decelerate...will fiddle with the fuel screw somehow and get that too sorted. now at least the bike starts without choke and runs without it too and yeah...the problem was the smaller jet...pilot jet i think... was blocked... i don't know how it happened after cleaning the whole bloody thing but somehow it did.
  15. Dauntless

    96 JDM XR250 runs only with full choke :(

    Thanks tropper8 will check that up too... i did a full carb cleanup 2 days back. spent a good couple of hours with plenty of carb cleaner and compressed air. suppose still somehow some crud got in there. Also...this carby has what looks to be a throttle position sensor. I didn't remove that for cleaning cos its held by a torx screw and i don't have that size. I hope that has got nothing to do with all if this cos finding a replacement here aint gonna be easy And also... the bike ran fine until i ignored her and kept her in the garage for 4 years. suppose this is pay back