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About docthrock

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  1. I had a 1971. Had two of them in fact. Thing didn't run worth a shit. Took it back to the dealer. Head mechanic said, "Caburaytuh wahped." Huh? Carburetor is warped? Whatever. It ran OK after they fixed it. I beat the crap out of the bike for a few years, that's for sure. Had a red 175 after that, it was much better. I like this 250. I probably should have gotten a 450, but I was afraid it would eat my ass. I crash the 250 enough with low power as it is. :-) Thanks again everyone! Looking to hit the trails this weekend. Should be a lot of fun!
  2. Thanks William. Appreciate all you do for us here. Turns out that... wait for it.... I forgot to put the needle jet and main jet back in. How idiotic is THAT!?! Anyway, put the needle/#185 main in and pushed the button. WOOOHOO !!! Started like a champ on the first hit. SWEEET!!! Now I just have to learn to ride dirt again.... :-) My first "dirt bike" (and it was new):
  3. New needle jet and 185 main and the bike runs like it always has! Woohoo!!!!
  4. Thanks again Krannie. I'll get some new parts and check the areas you mention. Maybe 3rd time will be the charm...?
  5. Thanks MJDB. Sounds like Pinesol and water is the way to clean out the green varnish.And yes, I've looked at rebuild and partial refurbish kits. Thanks for that tip. I think I may need one soon. I'm happy to report that the float stopped leaking. Regrettably, the bike still runs poorly. I have to use half throttle or more to start it (which is easy), but I only have the last 1/2 of the throttle, maybe only the last 1/3, and the engine won't run much over what I would consider idle. I'm thinking I forgot to stack a jet in there or something to that effect? Any ideas? Man, it's been so long since I put the JD jet kit in there (6 years?), and then left the bike half finished for so long after I left the gas in for years... I probably didn't get all the parts back in the carb. Maybe. Or perhaps it's just still gunked up?
  6. Thanks for that, William. And so I suppose I would need a slide hammer to remove my pressed brass seat to get to that Oring? The good news is that the leaking stopped! I think I can move on and not mess with the float seat and Oring.... for now. The bad news is that the bike still runs very poorly. I think maybe I forgot to put something back in there. I'll use my manual (which doesn't show the stacked float seat parts) to determine if I forgot to stack jets, or something like that. H Here's the scoop if anyone wants to guesstimate what I did wrong: I can start the bike. Choke on. Half throttle or more. Bike will start fairly easily, seems to be running very rich of course. Warm up a few seconds. Choke off. I have to keep it at half throttle or more to keep it running and even at full throttle it's above idle, but not by much. Those symptoms give anyone any Ideas (other than I'm a dolt) where I messed up?
  7. Thanks again for that, William. You (or anyone else) still didn't answer the question about the type of seat. Did the later press fit seats just use a rubber tip needle valve that closed against a metal seat? My seat appears to be brass... is there an Oring in there? Appreciate the info on the bowl/screw issue, too!
  8. Thanks William. Yeah, I'm doing a lot of digging AND coming back to look for posts. It's almost as clear as mud.... :-) Seems like there may be more than one seat setup? Appologies, but again, is there an Oring under that brass insert? I don't want to go buy a slide hammer and take that thing out needlessly (and damage it because I don't know how to do it properly). I'll do the "air in the fuel inlet test" on the needle valve. Probably go ahead and replace the needle valve and Oring (if there is one... which is still not 100 clear) anyway if there is leakage... If I get good pressure/no leakage at the needle valve/seat, and the float is properly adjusted (and not "fuel logged"), what next?
  9. My needle valve seat looks similar to the one on the Dirtrider link (thanks to Krannie). There's an Oring in there? Use a slide hammer to get that brass center out for access to it? http://stwww.dirtrid...731/9474362.jpg
  10. I don't doubt that something is still wrong that's for sure. :-) I don't see an O ring on the blow up diagram anywhere associated with this needle valve. A couple places also say replace the needle valve seat and I don't see that on any diagrams, either. Can't see the forest from the trees?
  11. OK, I removed the float bowl and disassembled everything inside there and cleaned it all pretty well. There was gunk and varnish everywhere. The needle valve looked to be in pretty good condition and the float seemed intact, but what do I know. Is that needle valve made with a rubber tip that seals against a brass seat? I cleaned everything out carefully with carb cleaner, blew it all out, etc.. Reassembled and gas still comes out the float drain. The bike will still run (barely) and it ran better. But fuel still bleeds out the drain hose... Now what?
  12. I removed the float bowl and took out all the components that I could reasonably get to. Yep, sure enough, there was lots of varnish and sludgy nasty stuff in there. I gently cleaned the float needle valve and float. The needle didn't show any wear, and seemed to work just fine. I put the carb back together again, and gas still runs out the bowl drain. I started the bike anyway. It runs better, but it ain't goin anywhere the way it is. I looked up the part number that William1 suggested and I don't see it listed for the WR250F. And I didn't see it showing on the basic carb blow up diagrams you can find online. Is that needle valve tip rubber and seals against a brass fixed seat? Some more help, if you please? Thanks!
  13. Bad gas from sitting WAY too long. Tried to clean the carb out (removed jets is about all). Broke a jet. Replaced the jet. Let the bike sit unfinished for years. Dumped the gas, put the bike back together enough to run it. Gas started trickling out the lowest drain on the carb. The bike runs, but barely idling using full throttle. What's likely the problem and where do I start fixing it? Thanks for the help. I feel like a dolt for 1.) not finishing the project when I started it way back when and b.) not using my perfectly good WR for YEARS. Hope to get back on track and do a little trail riding soon... with some help from my TT friends! Matt
  14. My 2005 WR250F has been sitting for years. Bad gas, Took the carb apart to clean it out. Put in a JD kit years ago without problem (man it ran great!), so I figured I could handle it. Broke one of the jets coming out, forget which one. Replaced it. Let the bike sit around uncompleted for a long time (two years, maybe more?). Dumped the gas, put in fresh & new battery. Hooked up the line from the petcock. Fuel started running out the lowest drain line on the carb. I actually was able to get the bike running, but it took full throttle to keep it near idle. Now my neighbors are gonna be pissed because of the smell of rich crappy fumes. The fuel stopped coming out the little drain line at the bottom while it was running. Considering the steady trickle of fuel, I was surprised it would even run. OK, where do I start?
  15. I'm happy to report that I have the bog in my 2005 WR250F under control. I went back and double checked my JD instructions, then searched TT for other's results. I still haven't had to change the leak jets (maybe there's already a 40 in there?), but I have a set of them on the way. I bought the next 5 larger sizes (for about $5.50 each) from a Yamaha dealer in Fargo (University Motors). One thing I have noticed is that I have to warm the crap out of by twofiddy before I can even think about evaluating the bog. Last year, I would get in a tight spot when the bike was plenty hot, have urgent need for power when near idle, die and keel over. That sucked. Now, though, after adjusting the red screw all the way in, then back out, and the JD jets set for my area (blue, 500 ft above sea level), I got NO problems whacking on the throttle. SWEET! Now if I could just learn to ride the darn thing....