Just thinkin

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About Just thinkin

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  1. Let it follow it's normal path and shove the end in the skid plate. Ya never see it!
  2. If the o-ring is the same size, ID, OD, and section, it should be fine. The only thing I would be concerned with is the compound of the material the o-ring is made of. It has to be compatible with the fluid used and the temp range it will be subjected to. There are many compounds used in the manufacturing of o-rings. Buna N is generally considered the "standard, off the shelf" material but, for an example, I don't believe Buna N is compatible with brake fluid. It is compatible with most oils. Call your local bearing house and they should be able to help you out. DaveJ would most likely tell you what compound to use with his oil. I doubt he would be worried about making 30 % on a 15 cent item. It wouldn't be worth his time to put it in an envelope!
  3. The thing doesn't seem to cause any problems when it's neglected. Ignoring it only creates the need to replace the parts, but they are cheap. Using them at the top of the shock, in mx, I clean mine every six or eight hrs. Not really that bad if ya think about it. I like the inner tube idea.
  4. I've tryed them dry, with dry moly lube, and grease. Grease is best but service it OFTEN ! It's not an install and forget part, especialy when it's at the bottom of the shock that is subjected to more dirt than if it was at the top which is shielded by the air boot etc.
  5. The thin "washers" that are placed on each side of the roller bearing. When one side gets pitted, flip it over to the fresh side.
  6. Great idea but prepare for a lot of maintanence. Your placing an unshielded bearing at the dirty end of the shock:naughty: You'll be surprised how quickly the assembly gets contaminated. That bearing is designed as a thrust bearing that rotates, which spreads the loads and lubricant, over the entire surface of the races. In this application that bearing is barely moving creating extremely high point loads. The grease gets pushed aside and the limited contact area of the small diameter roller places extremely high loads to the bearing races. These loads will create craters in the races quickly. You can extend the life of the assembly by flipping the bearing races to expose a new surface to the rollers. Watch your pressure washer and service often and you will be a happy camper:applause:
  7. Penske Racing Shocks or Intercomp. Intercomp shows a high buck digital version in their catalog but ask if they still supply the analog version. www.intercompracing.com
  8. Protecting the fuel from engine heat isn't a bad thing but is questionable in the typical non pro five lap moto. In this situation it probably does more good after practice or a moto. Deflects the engine heat, after running, while sitting in the pits with no air flow around the tank to carry heat away. Use only enough fuel to run the race and put fuel that was kept cool in the shade in just before going to the line is probably more effective.
  9. Duh ! Didn't realize they sold tuning parts. Thanks for pointing me in right direction.
  10. Hi All, I'm just beginning to get into DIY valving. I have been purchasing valving shims from the left coast. The freight cost and time in transit is killer:eek: Is there a reliable source of shims in the mid west or the east coast? At one point I read of a place in New Jersey that has shims available but I'll be darned if I can find it now that I want it:crazy: Sure would appreciate a lead. Thanks
  11. Mog is so right ! It's pretty easy to get off on a tangent. Pay close attention to the basics and go from there. Spoken by someone who was "just thinkin".
  12. Mog & Dave, Practice track has been flooded the last few day's. Sunday is the first test. Going slow and still "thinkin". Thanks for all your input and Dave, I'm working on understanding your train driver [engineer] talk. Your trying this old brain! I love it! I'll let you know how it goes.
  13. Will do.
  14. Mobil synthetic trans oil ? I can pick that up on the way home tonight. If it quits raining we're wanting to test tomorrow evening. I'll drop the mid valve 20 and remove one 30 x .1 face shim on the BV. Don't have a 16 x .1 to replace the 18 x .1. All I have "in stock" is a 17 x .1. Thanks Mate.
  15. Doc, So your saying drop the 5th 20 on the mid valve and reduce the oil level, to say 155 - 160 cc? Your opinion is to, considering the rider comments, soften the base valve comp. by removing 1, 30 x .1 face shim or replace the 18 above the 30.5 x 2.0 with a 16 x .1? Thanks,