John Briggs

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About John Briggs

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  • Location
    Australia
  • Interests
    Bikes, Astronomy
  1. 2009 models do not look too much different to the earlier models. I bought a set of KDX200 wheels for my 05 KLX and they slot straight in. I keep one set ready with dual purpose tyres and another set of wheels with knobbies.
  2. MY 250 with 300 kit + full staintune and dynojet will get 70mpg on the highway, but only half that on the tight trails running in the lower gears. make sure the spring was replaced when the slide was removed. make sure slide is in the right way.
  3. I hope Kawasaki are reading this thread. The worst part about the 450R is the internal gearing. Kawasaki have stuffed it up big time when the only options to gear down are to go to a stupidly small 12T front which demands a new chain slider, and then 51T at the back - no bigger otherwise the guide fouls. My 05 KLX250 came standard with tall 14/42 gearing. It meant I can radically change overall gearing and run anything from 13/50 to 15/42 - a huge range. the KLX450R should have the same overall gearing as now, but using 14/47 sprockets. This means kawasaki need to alter the internal primary ratio. I spend way too much time in 1st gear when I should be in 2nd were it a bit shorter. My intention now is to go the rekluse way rather than gear down, I can then let the engine revs drop real low without stalling and falling over cause I am too short to get my foot down in time.
  4. The exhaust sytem will work better on the 300 than the 250 - the standard system is too small for the 300. As for your mechanic mate 1. Forget the kickstart - the electric leg is reliable and the battery keeps a good charge. 2. he means a TM33 or FCR pumper carb. A good mod, but cheaper to keep the original carb and fit new jets + needle 3. Agree the rear end is ugly - you should have bought a second hand 07 model .
  5. [completly stock, and no intentions of major mods for a long time thanks Sphen, No intentions of major mods?? My bike has heaps of mods, the most major cost wise would be the $800 full Staintune exhaust system! yes this is how much you will have to spend for a decent system. I would start by having the dealer install the old KLX300 carb needle. Then think about exhausts etc. you should know that the 300 kit costs less than a decent exhaust sytem.
  6. You cannot tell much about the engine internals by turning it over on the kickstart. Give it a compression test. If you don't get a reading above 100 then forget it. A reading of around 100 will indicate valves needing adjustment or worn rings. If cam timing is out you can almost guarrantee bent valves. If this is the case compression will be around zero.
  7. I reckon the cam tensioner was installed incorrectly. This is the easiest thing to get wrong, and can lead to all the symptoms described. ie, runs OK for a short while until the timing chain jumps and then valves bending and disaster. Usually you have to replace at least two valves and the tensioner. Make sure you assemble everthing correctly next time. The 300 cylinder is made for your cases. Whoever told you about a different piston stroke does not know theier KLXs.
  8. It is not difficult. best to have a service manual which I believe can be found in .pdf form on the net. Points to be careful of 1. If you are worried about cam timing, take a photo once you have removed the cam cover. Put on TDC. Both cams should face out. remember this and you really cannnot go wrong. 2. Easy to stuff up the cam chain tensioner if you don't know what you are doing. This can lead to disaster. 3. I found the hardest part was scraping the rotten base gasket off. Plug the crankcase with rags, before taking the old piston off - you may drop the circlip down in the cases. 4. Use a torque wrench when assembling. 5. On the carb, remove the bracket that holds the throttle cable, then twist sideways to lift out. 6.For the head bolts you can make a tool by cutting up an old 8mm Allen key and placing in 8mm socket - otherwise its about $10 to buy. If you live anywhere near me- I can do it for you for nix.
  9. I have always though that most competition (and I don't mean just top level) 2 stroke 125 MX bikes would have had near 40hp. After all the GP 125s are nudging 55hp, so what is difficult about 40hp? 2 stroke tuning is no secret, nor is it expensive like 4 stroke technology. As for 250 2 strokes, 70hp should be achievable, as the 10 year old Honda NSR500 twin had 140hp. makes 56hp sound feeble.
  10. Pleased to see I am not the only one who crashes a bit - and I mean about two dozen times in six months of ownership. Yes this bike is tough and reliable. I am hoping to crash less now that I am putting decent tyres on the thing, but I reckon riding with dud tyres makes you a better rider.
  11. The choke is a fuel enrichening circuit on the CV34 - not a butterfly choke. The coolant line is likely an anti-freeze device. Not needed in most climates. The tube just leads to a brass stop - you can just pull it out of the carb body, no coolant goes into the carb itself. You can remove this entire device + lines as long as you block off the hoses properly.
  12. As you can buy a new 08 for AUD$9500, (i did)I reckon around $7500.
  13. Rumour has it that this pipe is worth an extra 7hp! - that will be with jetting etc
  14. It is an Aussie thing - your get anti smog stuff, we get anti noise stuff. The holes bleed vaccuum from the upper chamber restricting slide lift, and hence noise. Suzukis here have rubber flaps blocking half the throttle opening. My KLX450 when standard had a throttle that would only turn about 1/4" due to a long throttle stop screw. Everyone just removes these and fits a standard screw. The KLX 250 restriction is just that bit more complicated.
  15. It may have taken a little longer than you expected as you must wait for the epoxy to harden in the slide holes, before filing smooth. You will notice a big difference in performance after this operation, especially climbing hills. You should be OK to service yourself from now on until about 3000 or 6000km. If you ride hard then the valves will need shimming at 3000, otherwise 6000 should be OK.