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About Nodrog

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    South Africa
  1. The weird thing is my 99 Model 400 Wr never had this vibration and seems to be alot quieter than the new 450 .
  2. Recently upgraded from my 99 Wr400 to a 05 Wr450 - Got a good deal from my mate and the bike is only 7 Months old - When the bike is idling there is a slight clutch vibration , as soon as you pull the clutch lever in the vibration dissapears . Has anybody had these symptoms and what were your findings .
  3. I use ATF in my forks on all my bikes and have been doing so for years - Haven't had any shit to date and after doing the forks on my WR400F about a year ago , still no leaks and the suspension set up is still perfect - We ride every 2nd weekend - ATF is also a damn site cheaper than your fancy brand fork oils on the market . I would agree with Indy with the measurement of about 100mm from the top for your weight - If you strip your forks completely and they are dry when you reassemble them , they will take 600ml of oil to get to the 100ml level - Dont forget to pump the the damper rod up and down when filling the fork to dstribute the oil evenly .
  4. Remove the Blue wire on the Neutral Sensor for a start , this makes a huge difference . I would also suggest giving the carb a good cleaning , to iliminate any doubts - Also check your diapraghm on the Air System - I had it before on my 99 model , where it was shut closed and gave me all sorts of hassles .This is the domed unit on the left side of the carb , with all the hoses going into it - Remove the cap and make sure the rubber isn't stuck - Don't lose the spring ...I hope this helps .
  5. Go up one tooth on the front sprocket . This will definatley tame the power a bit more .
  6. Went riding down in the Forests this weekend with a couple of mates and Turfed my Bike (99 WR 400 ) on a steep incline . After getting the bike sorted and taking the it out of gear to roll back down the hill , I had no gear selection . Made a plan to get the bike back to a workshop ,as we were unable to sort the problem in the forest - After removing the clutch basket , discovered that the dowel pin that holds the selector spring in place had dislodged itself . found the little bastard in the sump , after doing a bit of scratching around - Put it back in and problem solved - Did 7Hrs of harsh riding the next day without any hiccups - Has anybody else had this happen to them . Raises a bit of concern if you are really far out and get stuck with the same problem .
  7. Me and my mates had a similar situation here in south Africa about 3 months back - Mountain bikers riding side x side on a dual foot path - They can hear you coming , but no chance in hell will they move over to let you past - needless to say a bit of roosting was in order to sort the problem out - Unfortunately we have the same problem with 80% of the quad riders as well - Slow moving and refuse to give way when you're behind them .
  8. Polisport do a decent range of after-market plastics at a good price - Their web site has a facility , where you can mix and match the different colour plastics on the bike of your choice - They don't require any drilling either - unlike the UFO brand .Makes life that much easier .If I were in the market , I would consider the Hurricane Kit -
  9. I had the same problem - I ended up changing my Accelerator Pump Diaghram and got rid of the problem .
  10. I would personally run the motor in on a good mineral oil for the next 2-3 oil changes and then switch to the synthetic grade - It would be best to dump the oil after 5-6 Hours of riding , while running in the motor - This will ensure that any crap that's floating in the motor doesn't stay around much - Therefore makes sense to use the resuable wire filters from Yamaha - It's pretty scary what comes out of a newly rebuilt engine after the first 1 or 2 oil dumps - this is my rule of thumb for running motors in and haven't had any problems before .
  11. I agree on the Gaerne SG10's - Damn fine boots , even if they are a bit on the expensive side , but then again it's like choosing Helmets - $10 Helmet for a $ 10 Dollar Head - $10 Boots for .....- I'm sure you get the picture .Don't be shy , when choosing your kit , rather spend more and get the quality stuff .
  12. I Agree with the Kenda Carlsbad on the back - Good all round tire , which lasts long and doesn't eat a hole into the pocket - You don't want to be caught behind this animal at full spin . Unfortunately the Kenda front tires are crap and tend to wash -
  13. Congrats on going back to 2 Wheels - I recently cut the blue neutral switch wire on my 99 WR and it is definately starting easier - start the bike with half a kick when she's hot with no problems .a mod worth doing . Cheers Nodrog
  14. Hi Voodochild - I have a 99 Wr 400 and just recently replaced the timing chain , after my chain kept jumping teeth - Luckily I didn't have any damage , just a lovely klanking noise - Ended up doing cam timing in the middle of the African Bush - On replacing the cams ,I found that the cam timing marks didn't line up 100% - Previously I tilted the Exhaust cam Inwards and left the Inlet cam Level - This time round I did the opposite and unleashed a handful more horses - Exhaust cam Lined up - Inlet Cam - 1 tooth clockwise -I now have a completely different ride - tons more power , that i didn't have previously . Cheers . Nodrog .
  15. Hi Guy's - New to your site - Must congratulate all the members for all the contributions and advise - It really comes in handy when you pick up problems with the scoot .I currently ride a 99 Model WR 400 and recently replaced the cam chain , as it kept jumping teeth on the cams (lovely Noise it makes) - On doing this , I played around with the cam timing and got some awesome results by Moving the inlet cam clockwise by one tooth and keeping the exhaust cam in the standard position - Has anybody tried this previously and had the same results - Please advise - I think the norm is to move the exhaust cam 1 tooth clockwise for better performance andkeep the inlet cam in standard position . Nodrog .