DSTerry

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About DSTerry

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    California
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    Motorcycles, Computers, Woodworking, Machining
  1. 95xr600man, thanks for the info. As I had mentioned in some of my previous posts, I don't have a problem with needing to tune a carb. I have lots of experience. Come to think of it, most of the two strokes I raced in the 90's had Mikunis on them. Not sure if that means anything compared to todays carbs, but I was always changing mains, pilots, and needle clip positions to suit the track I was at. Anyway, I am going to try another stock carb that should be arriving next week. Couldn't beat the price (free). If that works, my problem is solved. If not, I may purchase the Mikuni 41 flatside from XRs only. Thanks.
  2. Got it, thanks!
  3. Is this the right model XR650 carb. Looks like a good deal. No cables though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-XL650R-XR650-XR-650-XL-Carb-Carburetor-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d263df5bbQQitemZ400073553339QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Do you need the entire throttle assembly with cables? Just curious what is different about the cables and/or throttle on the XR650 vs the XR600. Thanks
  4. I'm going to give another stock carb a try since bigredpig was offering me one of his. But if I am still having problems, the 650 carb option sounds good. I'll have read up on it some more. Thanks
  5. I would love to spend under $200 to get my problem fixed. Ya the bike is not worth much, though I plan on keeping it for a while. It has been rebuilt from the ground up with all the suspension and rear disc from a '93. Plus I was able to get dual registration for it. It has all the lights, 200A stator, small speedo and key switch on some custom machined parts I made. Plus a NiMH battery pack and bracket I made for under the seat. Anyway, my point is I don't mind spending a little bit of money on it. When I rebuilt both of the carbs, I spray carb cleaner through all the orfices and make sure it squirts out the other end where it is suppose to. Then I run compressed air to blow everything out. The pilot jet was also prefectly clean. The problem I am having with the carb is that when I slowly open the throttle and release, it gets stuck in a high idle state (even with the throttle stop all the way against the idle screw). But then I give it 1 or 2 blips and the idles comes back down. When stuck in the high idle state I can also bang on the side of the carb with a screwdrvier which brings the idle back down. In a previous thread we pretty much determined that the body of the carb may be warn out and the slide was getting stuck in there possibly due to the strong vacumme inside the carb. There are a few wear marks in the body where the slide lives. But if anyone else has any other ideas before I spend money on a new carb I would like to hear them. Check out my other thread to see what I've already tried. Sounds like others have had similar problems and are looking for a way to possible fix this in the stock carbs. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=858969 Thanks.
  6. Not to worried about the tuning. Changing needles, jets, pilots, no problem. Used to tune my 125 2-strokes carbs from track to track. Had an assortment of parts for every condition. I to would rather buy a used carb and save some money, but don't want to end up with the same thing I have now. On the XRs only website, they say the Mikuni carb comes with an assortment of jets for fine tuning. Plus they put in what they think you will need right off the bat. But who knows how accurate it will be. All I really want is a carb that will get rid of my awful idling problems. I want it to run good too and be reliable. When I was racing 2 strokes back in the day I was very picky and my bikes were tuned to perfection. On my 20 year old thumper, I just want something reliable. If it doesn't snap off the bottom like a race bike, no big deal. Still want it to perform well though. Thanks.
  7. http://www.sudco.com/ Click on 'cataloge pricing download', and I scrolled down to the 016-730 carb kit. Do you know of a better price?
  8. Wow, $562 for the FCR Keihin. I don't want to end up with a crappy carb, but if the Mikuni is as good as stock, that may be just fine. My stock carb is completley worn out. See this thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=858969 But if it does have problems or if I can't get parts for it, then it may not be a good idea. Thanks
  9. I'm looking at this carb for my 89 XR600. http://www.xrsonly.com/content/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=549&category_id=423&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=70 For about $250, seems like a pretty good deal. It comes with a new cable, throttle, and air box adapter. Just started shopping around to see what I can find. Been reading a bunch of threads on carbs. A bit overwhelming! My bike is all stock except for the supertrap exhuast. Not really after a ton more performance. Just a good reliable carb that I won't have to worry about. Don't know how much better a pumper carb would be for my setup, or if I really need one for the extra money. I read somewhere that this particular carb from XRs only does not come with a choke. Is this correct? (I did read a lot of threads so I may be mixing this up with another carb). Any comments? Thanks.
  10. I purchased a new rear fender from thumpertalk for my 89. It looks really nice and fit perfect. Wasn't OEM, but the color was right on. I believe it was a Maier. Maier has front, rear, and headlight housing in the orange color for the 89. http://shop.thumpertalk.com/catalogs/Parts_Unlimited_Offroad_2009/default.asp?p=403 Didn't see the side panels though. They only had them for 86-87. You may have good luck on e-bay for some used side panels. Even if they are a little scuffed up, buy some plastic renew, follow the directions (proper grit sand paper, etc..) and you can make them look almost new again. I bought my 4.7 gal tank on ebay in the correct orange color too. Terry
  11. Well I've done both with the carb. Cleaning it very well with carb cleaner (slide and carb), and now oiling the slide. But neither seem to have made much of a difference. Since the fresh 30W I just put all over the slide didn't make much of a difference, I don't think the 2 stroke oil will help much in my particular situation. I think the carbs (both the 89 and 93) must be worn out. At least I am not puzzled anymore. I don't ride the bike all that often. Only put about 300 miles on it in the last 5 years (boy thats sad). The only thing that really bothers me about the idle is when I pull up to a red light with cars all around, and I'm sitting there bliping the throttle over and over to get the idle to drop from what sounds like a 1500 to 2000 rpm idle. With a super trap on there, it's kinda loud. Plus if there are any cops around, they definitely look. But when I'm on the trails, it really doesn't bother me at all. Sorry to hear others have to deal with the same thing, but at least I have a good idea of what I need to do now. I'll be shopping around. Thanks.
  12. I started off by just pulling off the top cover, but then decided to pull the whole thing off anyway. Only takes a few minutes. I wanted to make sure I got everything oiled well and double check the slide and linkage in there. Anyway, oiled everything really well, checked out the linkage and all looked good. Put it back on the bike, but still the same issue. I went back though the same diagnostics of bringing the bike up off idle, then realasing the throttle having it stick at a high idle. I first used a screwdriver and pushed back on the throttle linkage at the carb just to make triple sure that it wasn't sticking open. It was 100% up against the idle screw with no change in idle. Then I started banging on the side of the carb, and sure enough the idle started to drop again. It all makes to much sense now. Blipping the throttle brings it back to normal idle, and banging on the carb does the same. In both situations the linkage is at the stop, so the only other thing it can be is the slide inside the carb. At least that's all I can think off. Oh well, I'm probably trying to fight a lost battle with these carbs. And to top it off, I decided to change my oil. Being tired and a bit frusturated, I managed to only pull the case plug, drain the oil out, then start to fill it up. Well, 3/4 of a quart and the oil starts overflowing all over the frame and engine. Ooops.. Never done that before!! Tank came off again, had to pull off the skid plate, and clean up the mess. Draining the oil again and giving it a second try. What a day! Thanks for all the help and advice so far. Terry
  13. I never thought of oiling the slide. Mine is definiely as oil free as can be. I have to stop thinking two srokes. I'll pull the slide out and give some oil a try. Thanks.
  14. Well, after my last post, I went into the garage to take another look. I think I just proved to myself that indeed the slide is sticking inside the carb when the throttle is opened slowly then released slowly. With the bike running, I cracked open the throttle, got the bike stuck into the high idle state. It would just sit there for a while until I gave it one or two good blips of the throttle, then it would drop back down to the normal idle. I then put it back into the high idle state, and took a large screwdrive and started banging on the side of the carb over and over again (right where the slide is). Sure enough, the idle slowly started to drop until it almost reached the normal idle. It was still idling a little high, but nothing like before I started banging on the carb. I verified that the throttle stop was seating against the idle screw during all these tests. I would push hard on the linkage at the carb against the stop and it made no difference in bringing the idle down. So it looks like the slide is sticking in there due to the motor vibrations (because it definitely seats well with the motor off). When I start to bang on the carb I must be causing the slide to slowly drop bringing the idle back down. I did this multiple times with the same results every time. A good blip brings the idle back down to normal, and 5 to 10 good bangs with a screwdriver also brings the idle back down close to normal. Now is there a fix for this? Maybe a small adjusment I can make inside the carb? At least now I feel that if I do fork over the cash for a new carb it should run just fine. I still want to give the stock carb a chance before I chuck it. I'll pull it apart again and see if there is anything I can figure out. Terry
  15. Thanks for the great tips to look into. One of the very first things I suspected was the slide. Sure enough, the slide in my 89 carb was completely grooved all around. So I took the slide from my 93 carb (which looked great) and stuck it into my 89 carb. This may have helped a little, but the problem still existed. That's when I decided to just rebuild the whole 93 carb and try that. As far as the cables, throttle mounting, and grip, those are all set up pretty good. With the bike OFF, the throttle feels very nice. It pulls easily, and snaps back very repsonsive (from stop to stop on the steering). The slide inside the carb has a nice crisp snap to it when it closes. As far as the cables, one of the first things I checked when the bike goes into this high idle state is to make sure the linkage on the carb is all the way closed up against the idle adjust screw. And yes it is all the way closed even at high idle. So I am pretty sure that it is not a cabling or throttle sticking issue. It feel like it is something inside the carb, or adjustment in the idle circuit. It almost seems like when the bike is running and I give it some throttle, then let it off slowly, the slide is not going all the way back down (but only when the bike is running). Almost like the vibration from the motor is causing the slide to stick in the carb. Unfortunately I don't know of anyway to check this, or force the slide back down. When I do a blip of the throttle, I feel it is enough to force the slide back down. But when I slowly open and release the throttle, the slide seems to stick. Thats just a theory I have without knowing how to verify this. HeadTrauma, I think what you are saying may be the problem. There may just be too much slop on the internal parts, so the linkage is hitting the throttle stop, but the slide is not comming all the way down. Possibly due to the vibrations from the motor. Though I find it kind of odd that this is the problem on both the 89 and 93 carbs I have, but they are both old. I wonder if there is a way I can check for too much slop. Like I had mentioned before, when on the bench, and when the bike is OFF, the slide works great. Opens very smoothly, and snaps back very solid. Unfortuneatly when the bike is running I can't hear the nice snap of the slide, so it very well may be not snaping shut due to the slop and vibration of the motor. Thanks again for the info. I've been rebuilding carbs and motors since the early 90's when I started racing motocross, and this is definitely something new that I have never seen before. Terry