cloggy

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About cloggy

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  1. I'm guessing you have a slide carb. If so then you may need to drop the needle one notch and possibly after that go one leaner on the idle. You should be able to play around with the idle screw. Modern fuel is different from back in 79 so don't be surprised if you need to make changes
  2. For gentle trailriding they'd be OK though as far as I'm aware they only have 4" of stroke which means they would inhibit the travel on my KLXs and DRs. I have two sets of english made Falcons. The motocross set are on one of my DRs and are perfect. I have another set of Falcon trail bike shocks. They work a lot better than the Hagons but if I race them the damping goes after 10 minutes. They are built for trail riding and though they carry more oil than Hagons it's too little for that use. Serious racers in the UK pay serious money for shocks and the cheapest good ones generally available here are YSS , Rockshox and Falcon. I once did well in a rocky event due to the PE boys use of Hagons. They couldn't get traction as the back ends were bouncing around so much. I had set of old Ohlins and cruised past. Those s/h Ohlins cost 300$ You get what you pay for.
  3. Hagons are a very good inexpensive road shock, any more than a handful of bumpy offroad minutes and the damping goes. They are based on an old ill regarded Girling design. They simply don't contain enough oil to work on much more than a 1 to 1 stroke ratio, and apart from not being made in the length you need they wouldn't have the requisite stroke either. I've ridden them and several other makes and by comparison Hagons compromise the handling of any offroad bike I've used on rugged terrain. Buy YSS or WP. You want to buy a shock once, or several times? There is no performance advantage to piggybacks here in England we don't race long enough at MX for the standard shocks to get hot, might be different in Arizona but my Dick Mann came from there with original WP non piggyback units... I got them rebuilt. They are 35 years old and ride better than I do.
  4. Apologies, is that Brazil made?
  5. Leave it alone. It's a perfect time capsule
  6. Get it right. This is twinshock so not an '87
  7. All things being equal a bigger carb will give you more top end but less low down punch. This is due to the gas speed not being optimised at low revs. A 38 may well be ok, it depends what exhaust mods have been done. On a standard exhaust it will probably be slower than a smaller carb
  8. I think they are 16" . I'll check They are rebuilt old works performance A bit soft. How much does adding more nitrogen change the shocks? The bike is very long and low. Handles very like my KLX, but with a bit more power! The mk4 swingarm was the giveaway. Originally it wasn't listed as a Mann. They came with fibreglass tank and sidepanels I have them and am getting the tank refurbished. Tanks changed with the frames. Dick Mann made more than one tank mold. They also had a side stand attached to the swing arm, which I don't have. I'm having the original stickers copied. Let me know if you'd like some. It's said Mann only got tanks made due to the supply of B50 tanks drying up.
  9. You've got to be careful here Pudgy There's a youtube of a red 83. It's actually a 83 registered 82 model year bike For 83 Kawasaki seem to have amalgamated the KLX and KL making something in between. From around 81 the KL and KLX used an identical motor. By 83 the motor was modded for a roller bearing head, the rest of it is identical. I have one of these heads and it's a retro fit on the earlier engine. It's still not problem free as, if you let the valve clearances tighten up or the oil get low, the lobes will wear. In that respect it's similar to your XT500 excepting that the flow goes through the cam lobes to the rockers, the opposite of the XT. Although everyone says the power is poor, if you look at contemporary road tests the engine seems ok on power. Sometime after that I think Kawasaki went to a different air cooled engine with a balancer, in the same running gear. So which bike are you looking at? The engine mod for these is to put in an oversize aftermarket piston made for the early kawasaki 4 cylinder 1000cc bikes [Later engines had a bigger wrist pin]. It only goes up 10cc but the valves seem to work better at this capacity.
  10. What Mark Dick Mann have you got trumph? I've got a mark 4 but the only other mark 4 I've ever seen turned up as a wrongly described rolling chassis on Ebay a bit over a year ago. Dick Mann very kindly answered my queries. I quote This looks like the last version I did. There were less than 20 built. All frames were fabricated by Terry Knight and were of exceptional quality. They were constructed on my frame jig that was set up from a prototype that I made and tested.
  11. Offset and fork angle between them set the amount of trail your front wheel has, how far the contact patch sits rearward of a line through the head stock steerer tube. Think shopping trolly. Once you push the trolley the wheels fall into line, that's the result of trail. Profab made bits and frames. I think the PROTEC Ron leichen bike may have been built on the profab frame. They were one of a number of custom builders pulling great motors out of the indifferent frames that at the time were coming out of japan. By 83 the japs were making good handling monshocks and the frame shops tended more towards mile and half mile frames for dirt ovals. That was a niche market.
  12. Dwight represented the USA, he was a top rider.
  13. I'm a bit surprised no one seems to be doing a Pro Fab replica kit. There are several Andover HL copies. It may be that with the vintage racing movement being resurgent in Australia and Britain they have reproduced the frames available back in the day. Outside of the US Pro Fabs were as available as Rocking Horse waste. The German guy said the original Andover HL was a production bike but his USA Pro Fab was more of a one off custom, it showed in the attention to detail and weld quality That doesn't reflect on the quality of modern repros though. .
  14. Decompression lever. Ashy white may well mean that the carb wasn't rejetted to allow for the loss of the airbox. You probably need a bigger mainjet and to lift the needle one notch inside the slide. On the plus side the plug isn't soaked in oil.
  15. I don't think you've got a '47. 47 was a rigid year The motor age is on the engine just below the barrel. However you can switch frames so that's not proof