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Sparkey_STi

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About Sparkey_STi

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Colorado
  1. Do they make 50CC Pit bikes with clutches or is that a far stretch? I lost my license today for 6 months and 50cc's dont require a license, but i've seen 125's with clutches and wondered if they made em on a 50. Also, what is a good 50cc bike for stuntin? Is there such thing?
  2. At first i thought it was a typo meaning to type xr... but then i looked it up to be sure, and its not what it was. All i know is he said it was a 600 two stroke. I obv could tell it was 2-stroke, but was un-marked so no varification on the size. But i was hauling up a trail and he was barely struggling. What may take me some thought as to how to approach a trail, he just hauled balls right threw it without question... that bike was beastly for a Honda...
  3. Louds not always out... IMO, If its for performance, loud is ok. But if someones just looking for the sound, whats the point? Cause i have the Pro Circuit T4 pipe, and that shit is louder then my dads GSXR1000 with Yoshi pipe, untill he hits the 8000RPM mark... But i know it gives me a bit more pull at the same time as being loud. And is sound really the reason everythings being shut down? I was told its because of destruction to trails. And here in colorado our best riding area was completely shut down except for the crappy track. Massive area for riding, trails, track, tunnels, moutians, ect. All lost to building permits :thumbsup:
  4. I've yet to run into a problem hill climbing unless it was rider skill needed. I went riding today and hit some SANDY steep hills and as long as i kept it pegged and the bike straight, everything was good. And yea, of course a bigger bike is going to do better... but what about bikes of the same classification and such? Cause when i ride with CR600's and such, yea, they just blow past me on straights and up hills, but it doesnt mean my bike cant do it or anything... im just not able to do it as quickly or as easyily. But who wants riding to be easy anyway... And yea, it has a problem starting after a stall like that... but it wasnt enough for me to run out and drop $80 for a hot start. Cause like i said, today i was doing some huge hills, hills that werent even trails, just sides of a moutian and had rode non stop for an hour and a half and stalled it doing a wheelie over a stump up hill cause i almost dumped it. Got on, and about 5 kicks later i was good to go.
  5. Quoted for truthery. Its rider skill more then anything. Cause if your not racing or anything, IMO, its best to have a bike that will take the abuse. Like Dirtrider said, it will start everyday, no questions asked. If your doing 95% trails, and 5% track, GET IT! You wont be dissapointed! I started riding track for awhile because i want to jump, and the trails i go to just dont have that. I can clear all the jumps (provided im not scared of them), and keep up with other bikes out there (some times, depends on if they know what their doing or not) and i dont get struck on trails. But trails, this thing is unstopable. If you have the ability, and you have the balls, the bike will do it. I know this is a bad example,a nd i shouldnt say this... but i went off the trails in some soft clay dirt with pine needles around up a steep hill (Basically like a vally, and the bottom was the trail i was supposed to be on, but i went up the hilL) and it didnt stop, pulled the front up a bit, but i'd just feather the clutch, bring it down, and continue on. The ONE problem i have with this bike is the FRONT suspension. At low speeds, its not to bad. But high speed trails, some dips and ruts really get to ya. Im just learning to ride "loose" and it jolts me every time because of how stiff it is. Lastly, you'll hear (or have probably heard) a lot about it not starting hot after a wreck... i think its just not properly tuned. Cause i pin the throttle all the time and it gets hot (as in was revving high at idle hot) and dumped it a few times because of stupidness, but it would fire right up for me. Second kick if my first wasnt good enough. No matter what, you wont be dissapointed. I love it and no matter what other bikes i own (or have owned like a KX125) i will keep this bike because its dankmes...
  6. lol, see, i didnt catch that. Good point...
  7. Im new to wheelies also. I can ride mine out for a good idk, 30 yards or so. But my problem is (as with riding in general) i cant keep my foot on the brake. If im wearing tennis shoes, i can. I have SO much control with tennis shoes on, but i like my ankles not being broken, so i ride with boots. Everytime i cover the brake, unless im sitting way back on the bike, i ride it, or end up locking it up when i dont want to. I try standing, and thats ok, but when i need to lean forward for big hills or whatever, i mash the brake, its almost like my kryptonite or something. Is it me and the fact im an r-tard and cant ride properly, or do i need to adjust the brake lever to acomidate for my tardness?
  8. I use search some times, but its still hella gay to reply to a thread thats like a month old if you ask me...
  9. What modifications and such do you all have? Cause it sounds worthy for me to start racing... Also, what class did you race in?
  10. booo.... bad links.
  11. Aight, so im starting to get more and more into racing the more i lurk on here and the more bubba scurbbin i watch. I havent a clue what techniques there are at my disposal, or when each would be useful. If theres a website someone can post to me, i'd be more then happy to read... i hate just asking for answers, but i cant find a site that helps me enough. Anway, basically i would like to know what techniques there are to clearing a jump, as well as when each technique would be useful. Cause at my local track theres two tabletops back to back that i just clip the end of and it sends me flying, but im not sure if theres another way i should approach the jumps, or if i just need to go for broke... its driving me crazy I want to learn this stuff, but i dont have the proper bike, nor do i want to get formal training yet because im still learning some basics to decide if i want to follow threw with this or not... Thanks
  12. Not all corners are going to require the same technique. But if your looking for quick stops (later braking also :wink:) then your going to want 60% Front 35% Rear and 5% in the downshift engine braking... if you ask me. Some say more front ect... but i've done my share of going over, washing out, ect and thats what i like. I usually grab my front till about halfway, downshift, then grab the rear and continue pulling the front untill i feel my rear lock and i stay at that point. Thats what i've been using, and thats also what i was tought in my MSF rider course. That was for street riding, but i find it works good on dirt too. A lot of people are scared of the front brake, and even teach others or were tought not to use it (Then whats it there for?). My uncle and i got into a big argument about it... but when we would hit some trails he'd pull hard in the straights having a WR450, but not matter how hard he would pull on me, i'd be right up with him, or even pass him as soon as we hit twisties...
  13. Like KLXFOOL said, if your leaning more twords track, go for the WR. My uncle had the WR426 and the only difference between that and a YZ250 or 450 was the carb needles and a bit less weight. But, im a kawi guy so i say KLX all the way, you WONT be disappointed...
  14. I started out on it and it was modded slightly, but i think its great. I got it when i was 15, first bike, and love it on the trails. Loads of power, torque, and balanced well. Like people say, its not a track bike... but if your not racing competitively i like it. Its good enough to clear the jumps if you have the courage. It is kind of heavy, and takes some learning to jump, but its good enough for me on a track.
  15. Kind of... but i at least know what im looking for now. Then i can just look up a stock needle and then compaire it with what i have, if theres a difference then obv its not stock... Thanks