klxrcr

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About klxrcr

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    amegger@hotmail.com

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    Missouri
  1. I'm pretty sure it says on the case, 1L (a "cursive" L). but I think its back by the kick start.
  2. Piston rings fried? Too much nitrous? Sounds like you ran it out of oil, they make a wrist pin puller, most shops will have one, if its absolutely necessary. I've found that small stuck wrist pins can be removed with a #3 Phillips screwdriver (or similar item) and a hammer, just hold against the piston (or have someone else do it) so you don't beat the crap out of the lower rod bearing. If the pin is stuck in the rod, the rod may need to be replaced even if you get the pin out. But many times a small socket with 1000 grit sand paper can be used to hone it out till the new pin slides nice and smooth.
  3. I've only been to finger lakes and ST. joe But st. joe was about 1000 times better than finger lakes, if it rained within the last 2 weeks expect plenty of mud and way too many atv's. I've always had a good time at st. joe, I once rode with a bunch of ATV guys and took nothing but my klx110, those 4 wheeled bastards never could catch me, well except in the sand.
  4. he's right newer seals have less tension for better performance and dont seal as good as the old ones, and remember conventional forks? the seal was on top and the oil was in the bottom. USD forks have oil sitting on the seal at all times, so oil will leak all the time, old forks just leaked during suspension movement.
  5. Now I have replaced a few pistons in 4strokes and 2strokes. like at least a 100, its my job so I'd like to throw in my 2 or even 3 cents. Weisco seem to be an ok piston but they need extra clearance than factory spec or they have a tendency to seize, actually even a little more clearance than weisco writes on the box. Oem pistons tend to last a little longer and are made to a much higher tolerance than weisco. meaning if you took to identical pistons and measured them, how close the sizes are. Any piston will crack and break if you use it to long, it will slap in the bore and fatigue the skirt until it falls off. also note 90% of all oem japanese pistons are made by ART so they kind of know what they are doing. so for me its OEM or Pro-X they use ART pistons. unless I want a big bore/high compression piston. and for 4-strokes I would go with a JE forged piston theyre badass. 4 stroke cylinder heads are too expensive to go cheap on the piston.
  6. It seemes like your having a lot of problems here, so I'm going to start from the top. remove your carb, then take it apart. all of it. now look through the jets main and pilot. you should be able to see through them, if not try blowing some air through, you will not see light if there is fuel in the jet. if you still cannot see through use the wire brush bristle. now with all the parts removed (including the fuel screw and its spring,washer,and o-ring) spray carb cleaner into the pilot jet passage (where the jet came from) watch your eyes here. carb cleaner should come out of the fuel screw passage and out of a port in the carb bore directly above the fuel screw. if any of this dosent happen the pilot circuit is clogged. You need to clean it with carb cleaner and air, clean it until carb cleaner will come out of all places mentioned above. To check the float height remove the bowl with everything assembled, hold the carb at 90 degrees then slowly tilt the carb bottom up until the needle seats and the spring pin on top of the needle is not compressed now eyball the float from the side, the arm on top should be parallel with the bowl gasket surface. if its not lightly bend the metal piece that pushes the needle until it is. if none of this works then maby you should just take it to a professional. I mean really how long have you been working on this? well ask more questions if you have them. oh yeah the screws inside the carb bore on the air cleaner side are air passages, they do not need to be removed.
  7. shims can be used to raise the needle when they dont have different grooves. they look like a little washer and are very thin (1/32nds of an inch) just put them under the clip. some motorcycle chops will have them.
  8. Suzuki

    where exactly does it start to sputter? just off idle, midrange, or wide open. I'm guessing its just off idle, if so a pilot jet one size larger will help along with raising the needle 1 maby 2 positions. a jet kit will solve your problems (they're pretty much all the same) but you can fix your problem with out them. I would only change the main jet if it cuts out at wide open throttle.
  9. if you put too much stabil in the tank it can actually form little grains of.. um crap, I dont know what it is. I'm not a chemist. I've seen it before so dont add too much. and this applys to all fuel stabilizers not just stabil.
  10. A rod going out will sound like a sharp knocking or thumping from the engine, if it is going out you will know shortly, they don't last long when they start to go, this kind of noise can also come from a partially seized piston. I would suggest you change the oil and look for little bits of metal, it may just look like metal filings or larger peices of copper-ish metal, check the oil filter too they will collect there. if you find any of this, get it checked out before the rod exits through the case.
  11. I really dont know how to get your bright shine back, just put some tire shine on it when you want it to look good. but for future refrence "orange gel degreaser" in the spray can takes the sticky stuff right off.
  12. sorry, I mean left side of the engine. I'm dumb
  13. that pin and spring contact the neutral switch on the right side of the engine, as far as I know there is only one. if there is actually 2 it will have a similar function, but on a drz400 I don't know what another one would do.
  14. the kx 60 and klx use diffrent rear hubs, they have different numbers of spokes, and the klx has a cush drive, the kx 60 rear probably wont fit because it is much thinner as it has no rubber drive. the fronts are identical.
  15. A guy I work with had a few problems with his cable clutch kit, The o-ring groove on the clutch shaft was cut too high and is actually out of the case, I removed the arm and cut a new groove on a lathe, then the kickstart bore was too tight and caused the kick starter to stick, honing the bore solved the problem, oh yeah with 6 stiff clutch springs the pull is murderous, might have a popeye left arm after riding it. I'll probably get one anyway cause I'm a cheap ass.