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About delagem

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    TT Newbie

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    New York
  1. We did our ride last weekend, it was pretty fun. We stayed at Tuggers, in their campground. The app Jim mentioned above was very helpful. Found a small, sort of hare scrambles kind of off road track, maybe 1/2 mile long, near the corner of Factory Road and Fork Road, about 6 or 8 miles southeast of Tuggers. Another fun road was Flat Rock Road, west of Parker Road. It's not an off road area, just a very badly neglected truck trail. This is midway between the Montague Inn and Flat Rock Inn. Flat Rock Road becomes Olin Road before ending at Salmon River Road. Running North on Salmon River Road puts you back on the roads returning to Tuggers and Barnes Corners. Houseville Gulf Road, the last stretch of road on the way from Flat Rock Inn into Turin, had some fun sections. We made it over to Greig, and ran the trail down to Lyons Falls. Mostly just a flat right-of-way that appeared to be an abandoned rail bed. We ran out of time before getting over to Brantingham. Gas was a big issue for us, the KTM 65SX only has about a 40 mile range, and some of the gas stations were out of order or closed. We wound up siphoning out of the bigger bikes to keep the little bike going. Mostly it was just riding on dirt roads, nothing very challenging. Still, the kids had fun. Michael
  2. Thanks Jim! Awesome of you to take the time to explain that to me. That's a very helpful app! I rode out of Turin a decade ago with a friend; somewhere we found some trails that connected high voltage powerline trails to a river. Does anyone know where that was, and if it was a permitted riding area? Or, does anyone have any suggestions on good areas closer to Tuggers?
  3. Hi Jim, thanks for the reply. I downloaded the map app, but I don't see any trails on it? Just points of interest (for example, Tuggers, Cozy Country Cabins, Colleen's Creekside). No trails connecting any of the places, that I can see. .
  4. Hello, bringing my sons to Tug Hill, we've got a campsite at Tuggers 29-31 July. Riding a KTM 450 EXC, KTM 250 XCF-W, and a 65SX. Does anyone have any suggestions on places to ride? I've seen a few youtube videos shot in the area, but they all seem to be well-graded dirt roads. My sons aren't terribly experienced, but we were hoping for something more challenging than that. Any ideas? Routes on a map? Or something? Thank you, Michael
  5. delagem

    KTM wheel fitment crossover

    Solved the mystery. The new wheel, supposedly from a 2006 125SX, has wheel bearings measuring 17x40mm. This works out to a 6203 bearing. KTM used 6203 bearings in the front wheel of exactly one bike, near as I can tell; the 1998-1999 125EXC. Seller misrepresented the wheel as being from a newer model.
  6. Did I make a mistake? My understanding is that the 2002 to 2013 SX and 2003 and up EXC used the same rim size. And, since my 2003 450 EXC and 2007 XCF-W have the same rim, I figured this to be true. I bought a rim supposedly from a 2006 KTM 125 SX. It is substantially different from both my 2003 and 2007 bikes. The width between the hubs is substantially different; 4.5" on the 450 and 250, and 3" on the 125. No doubt the axle size is different as well, but I haven't gotten that far just yet. Did I make a mistake? And if I did make a mistake, do you suppose a simple set of spacers could be made up to take up this difference? See photos below. Rim on bike is 2007 250 XCF-W, rim not on bike is 2006 125 SX. Michael
  7. I just bought another KTM, and just like my other one, the headlight switch is missing. Typical. Is this why KTM is ruining motorcycling? Anyway, I came up with a cheap solution that most people could do, so I thought I'd post it here. IMG_2433 by michael delage, on Flickr I read thru other peoples solutions to this. I didn't like any of them. I was all set to make my own on a lathe, when I ran across these little door lock switches for a Honda car. $4.19 for 4 of them. No, they aren't the mythical 4mm 0.7pitch. I had a tap from another project in the correct size. If you don't, it's only $3.69 at NAPA. IMG_2432 by michael delage, on Flickr Originally I had the idea to just wrap the threads with some industrial teflon tape. Then I thought of machining a small bushing with 5mm outside threads, and 4mm inside threads. Then I decided, why not solder? The knobs come with 3 o-rings as grip. If you like them, take them off with a dental pick before you solder, they won't take the heat. IMG_2430 by michael delage, on Flickr Ran a tap thru, gently (it is just solder, after all), cleaned the threads and the switch post with some acetone. A dab of 3Bond 1184 (just what I happened to have handy) to prevent it from backing out, and we're in business! IMG_2434 by michael delage, on Flickr Michael
  8. I don't mean to drag an old thread up from the depths, but just wanted to post what the problem was. Spud and RideFreak were correct, it was running lean due to clogged jets, and even cleaning the carb jets wasn't good enough. Replaced the jets, and the bike runs perfect again. I went with a JD kit, and the choke isn't even needed anymore. Starts with just a tap of the starter; in less than a minute it'll take throttle gently, within 2 min's it will take throttle aggressively. Thank you all for the help! Michael
  9. Ok, thanks guys. No running issue that I'm aware of. This is my son's commuter bike. Just thought it was strange how hard the motor was to turn over. Starter spins along with the gearing in both directions. But perhaps this is down to the 50 weight oil and 40+ degree temps in the shop. Really, no kidding, if you slip that gear out, the smaller of the 2 numbered "14" , and the motor turns over as easily as a 50cc moped! I suppose it's down to the design of the bendix. Thanks for the input.
  10. Thank you for the replies. But I don't think either your replies explain what I'm seeing. With the spark plug out, they don't have any compression. So that's not the issue. The difficulty in turning the motor over went away when I pulled the idler gear (or whatever it's called, under the clutch side engine cover, that connects the starter to the clutch basket). So it's not the valve springs I'm feeling. What's making the motor difficult to turn over is the starter itself. I'm attempting to turn the rear tire, with the bike in gear, and the resistance is just ridiculous. As in, I can pick the bike up off the bottle jack that is holding the wheel in the air, just by applying upward force on the rear wheel, while attempting to turn it. Take the starter out of the picture (by slipping that gear out), and the motor turns over like any motor should. Does anyone think that's odd? Or is that normal?
  11. Here is a strange one: doing the valve adjustment on the 2003 450 EXC. Took the spark plug out, to try to find TDC. I can barely turn the motor over! It's really hard. As in, I'm lifting the rear wheel off the bottle jack, while trying to turn the motor over. So, I pulled the right side (clutch) cover, and I can see the starter is turning over with the motor. So, I slipped out the gear that joins the starter to the clutch basket. Once I did that, it turns over like I expect it to. Does anyone think this is odd? I don't even know there is anything wrong, but it doesn't seem right...
  12. Thank you for the replies. But this isn't an issue with how the choke is being used. Something is mechanically wrong. I have owned this bike for 12 years. It used to work correctly, but now, a combination of a much higher idle while the choke is on, combined with the need to run the choke for several minutes before the bike will run properly without the choke, is causing this issue. So, I need suggestions on two issues. 1. Is there a way to lower the idle when the choke is on, without affecting the idle when it's off? (Obviously I could do this with the idle adjustment, lowering the idle when I first start it, then raise the idle as I turn the choke off; but raising and lowering the idle each and every time I start the bike cold is obviously not right) Alternately, how do I get the bike to run sooner without the choke? Raise the float level in the carb? Air screw adjustment? The bike didn't used to need 3-4 minutes of choke to warm up; but it does now. I could live with the high idle for 30 sec or so, or the holding the choke half in for those 30 seconds (in fact that's what I used to do, when it was my bike), but several minutes with the thing just racing away in my driveway rattles my nerves... Obviously rejetting would help, but once again, it used to run right, with the jets that are in it now.
  13. Hello, My 2003 KTM 450 EXC 4 stroke has a crazy high idle when the choke is on. Maybe 4,000 rpm? Once it's warmed up, and the choke is turned off, the bike idles normally, 1,300 or so rpm. I can lower the idle while the choke is on, but then, once I turn the choke off, it dies. Idle needs to be raised up once warm. This doesn't seem right. Bike is used as a commuter street bike by my college student son, pretty much only 30-45mph surface streets. Bike is bone stock, owned since new. It used to run correctly. I've been thru the carb once, cleaning jets. Adjusted the valves once, when it was idling poorly. Am I missing something here? Michael