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    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   04/24/2018



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About Ocaptainmycaptain

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  1. Well, I'm happy to report that after a 60-mile ride yesterday, I drained my gearbox oil and it looked as new as it did when I poured it in a week before. Only took two changes to flush out what I assume was water contamination from some deep water crossings (and getting stuck) last month. I feel I dodged a bullet here. Thanks to all who chimed in with help and suggestions.
  2. Thanks, my Aussie brothers. I will check everything.
  3. I'm going to agree with you on this one. There's no sign of oil whatsoever on the outside of the trans oil filler plug. I had a cracked o-ring on the engine oil filler plug a few months ago and you could easily tell by the oil that was starting to seep out and show around the outside of the plug onto the case. Once I changed the o-ring that problem was immediately fixed. My trans oil plug's o-ring/gasket is only a few months old anyway. I'm very sure that water did not enter into the case through the filler plug.
  4. Good advice, but I'm a little too late. As I stated above, I rode her for 20 miles tonight, dropped both oils and ended up putting the drained engine oil back in as it looked as new as I put it in three days ago. I replaced the gearbox oil, which looked the same yesterday (starting to get milky) and replaced it with Motul 7100 10w40 synthetic. If I flush out the trans oil again I will throw in something less expensive. I'm really hoping that maybe I have some water contamination from the heavy water crossings I did two weeks ago and maybe a couple of oil flushes will get it back to normal again.
  5. Is this the trans/gearbox case breather tube? It starts at the top of the gearbox, routes around what appears to be the intake and then goes down towards the bottom. It's the only clear tube sticking out near the linkage. I checked it and it seems to be clear as far as I can tell. Certainly isn't pinched in any way.
  6. What was your coolant level after the second ride? If your coolant dropping then you have a gasket that needs replaced. Coolant level was still near the top. In fact, tonight I took another 20-mile ride around town, came back and drained both the engine and trans oils. Engine oil still looked fresh from when I changed it on Saturday, so I poured it back in (don't feel like wasting good Motul) Gearbox oil still looked a little milky, so I completely drained it and put fresh oil in it. Coolant level after tonight's ride is near the top, so I don't think I'm losing coolant in any way.
  7. Okay so based on the sound advice above I'm going to change out both oils again with fresh stuff and see what happens. Marty (or anyone else) - Where is the trans breather tube? Is that one of the clear tubes at the bottom?
  8. The pic of the milky oil above is Maxima Extra 4 10w40 ester-based synthetic. Was running that in both the engine and gearbox. I've been changing both sides every 300-400 miles since the bike was new.
  9. Bike was definitely stalled while the bottom of the engine was submerged, and I did start it that way. Bike ran completely fine afterwards though. Are you guys using special Delron o-rings on the filler caps?
  10. Often after water entry you need to flush the oil several times before it stops showing moisture try that. Also does your oil filler plug sweat a little? Those std orings are rubbish. Check the trans breather pipe for routing and holes I guess the next thing I'll try is to put in fresh oil and see what happens. What do you mean does my oil filler plug sweat? How/where would I see that? Where is the trans breather pipe located? Is it a clear or black hose?
  11. Stock oil fill cap on the trans side. I changed out the o-ring only a few rides ago and I've never had an issue like this before.
  12. The last ride I did two weeks ago I did a lot of deep water crossings all day, which I'd never done before so I was hoping that was the cause. At one point, the back half of the bike (entire rear wheel and most of the swingarm) was under water for a good 3-5 minutes as I got stuck. I don't think water got into the airbox because the bike ran fine afterwards and I checked it after the ride and it didn't appear to have been contaminated. Before riding yesterday, I topped off the radiator with coolant. It took maybe a half cup, which I don't think is a lot, so I would say, no, the coolant level hasn't really dropped. I hardly rode through any water on yesterday's ride.
  13. I changed my gearbox oil last Saturday and this is what it looked like. That oil has 300 miles on it. I replaced it with fresh oil, checked my filler cap o-ring for cracks, which was fine, and did another 40-mile ride on Sunday. When I got home I drained the oil and it was starting to look milky gray again. So I'm guessing that the oil is being contaminated with coolant due to a failed water pump seal? I think Krannie had this happen on his 430 last year. If so, how difficult is that to change out? Anyone have part numbers? Thanks guys. 2016 390RR 2,300 miles 85 hours
  14. I still have the stock Motobatt battery in my 390RR. Can/should I hook it up to a standard Deltran motorcycle battery tender that I've used on other bikes? It's getting pretty cold here and the bike is sitting more than it's getting ridden.
  15. So as a follow-up to my original post, I ended up ordering a new counter shaft seal kit as well as a Dirt Tricks dome washer, though I have yet to install these parts because the wet spot/staining next to the CS sprocket is no worse off, even after another 100-mile ride two weeks ago. In fact, after washing my bike and cleaning that area off I don't even see any more staining and definitely no oil leaking at all. Part of me thinks the staining might even be excess chain lube that was flung off, but I'm not entirely sure. So for now I'm just going to keep my eye on it and keep that area as clean as I can. Maybe I'll just install the Dirt Tricks dome washer and leave it at that and see what happens. If I need to change the CS seal down the road at least I have the parts.