stillsun

Members
  • Content count

    241
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About stillsun

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Offroading of course...
  1. If you put a 4GB (will it take that large?) does it hold more? Josh
  2. No tap small enough, the hole is pretty small.... no room to get a bolt/slide hammer, it's pretty awkward. I put some needle nose vise-grips on it and was able to get it to turn back and forth (although very stiff even at that)... but slightly deformed it in the process, this is really frustrating due to little to no room to work.
  3. This is on a Mikuni (Virago 535).... I've rebuilt many a carbs, but mainly on dirt bikes, this is on one of the Viragos and for the life of me the dang seat will not come out, I've pulled as hard as I can with needle nose, tried to locate a possible retaining screw, don't see one... any ideas? This is a 96 Virago 535. Thanks.
  4. My point exactly, they ALL bend, meaning ALL brands, and ALL lines... so shaking your finger to them was pointless. Get it?
  5. Let's not use their third line of bars as comparison, I'd say that anyone's third line of bars aren't going to be "impossible" to bend by any means.
  6. I've bent different sets of bars, nothing is indestructible.... but as far as crash for crash my Easton ProTaper's seem to hold up the longest. Sometimes what you think is a hard crash, isn't hard on the handlebars and what might be a light get off could be setting the bars up just right for disaster. J
  7. That's what I figured... no biggie, throw it up on the drill press, just wanted to make sure I didn't catch an "oddball" one that should have had more. As far as quality, we'll see, I've janked up every Excel I've ever had and I'm far from a "hard" rider so I figure it was worth a shot to give the Pro Wheel a chance based on the reviews I read across the web (including here.) Thanks again. J
  8. Anyone else had this experience (only has one for valve stem)? Is this an anomaly, should I send it back or was this to be expected and should I just drill it out and move on? How idiotic. J
  9. We've always used stainless steel wool packing for our mufflers, it last longer by not getting blown out or deteriorating from the exhaust/moisture etc.... some will say that it weighs more but with the small amount you're talking about it really doesn't matter to me, we're talking ounces in difference here. I just repacked one of the bikes about a week ago and it had been a year since I last repacked it, I should have left it alone it didn't even need it yet. Just some thoughts... J
  10. I think we've all been pretty helpful in this thread but when a person can't go to a site, put in their bike and then click or search for brake pads to bring up the cheapest one's (in this case the RM brand (Tusk)) then it's a little annoying. J
  11. Classic... it's amazing how the ratio of how well search engines have progressed compared to how often people actually attempt to use them to find what they're looking for.
  12. Teflon tape
  13. Yeah, I've been looking for a time to move down to an 18" on the 426 for a while (since I do nothing but serious trail riding with it), just couldn't justify ripping off the perfectly fine 19" and waisting money to do it; now that it's cracked and needs to be replaced it's the perfect time. Thanks for the heads up on the Excel info, now if I would have just noticed this before I bought the brand new Maxxis Desert IT... J
  14. I thought so, hell I have a 93 TT600 that came with Excel's stock... the particular bike in question is a 99 WR400F, I would assume those came with Excel's stock. I wish you could tell by the Yamaha OEM number. Josh
  15. Here's my procedure from memory so it may be missing some finer details: 1) Remove reservoir cap. 2) Place box wrench onto bleeder valve so that you can easily open close it. 3) Clamp rubber hose from vacuum onto bleeder valve with worm type clamp so you know for sure it's not sucking in air from the outside. 4) Build up some vacuum before opening the valve (it should hold since you've used the clamp) 5) Open the bleeder valve slowly, before your vacuum reaches zero close it back off. 6) Top reservoir off, start back at step 4 and repeat as necessary, usually twice gets it. Hope this helps. Josh