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About high_revs

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  1. high_revs

    honda150r problems ask away

    i didn't have as much time as i wanted to troubleshoot the carb and check the jets and stuff. so a few weeks back, i took it to the local shop (usually liked by many). the carb was all gummed up (i shouldl've asked for pics). the jets were too gummed to clean up so they replaced them. it's odd because i use sta-bil on all my bikes and i was surprised they said the gas was green! of course, no pics though or sample. it's odd because as mentioned above, i cycle thru the gas too every 3-4 months. i'll put the old in my street bikes to use for my commute, then put fresh gas with sta-bil (now trying star tron or soemthing like that where i used honda gas saver before sta-bil). i'm now draining the carb too. it takes too long to let the idle burn off the gas so i just open up the drain and until the engine dies and no more comes out. i checked for vacuum leaks. while bike is on idle, i did the boot from the engine side, then the boot on the carb side, and then the boot where the air housing connects to the carb. i did this on the clutch side and then on the brake side. (left and right). the idle didn't go up. i used starter fluid first but it doesn't have the attachment for a straw for more pin-point srpay. then i used carb cleaner that has the straw. idle didn't go up on either. after the carb cleaning though and i know the 150r has an accelerator pump so i don't have to open the throttle during the stroke in the kick.... now i feel like i have to even after 3-4 twist of the throttle to make the mixture a little richer and the choke on. seems to be the only way to start her w/o flooding the engine and risk fouling the plug. I replaced the spark plug after the carb clean. could the shop have done something on the carb that would necessitate having to open the throttle to get it started. i never did before but it does take forever these days to get her kick started. sometimes i had to open the throttle multiple times in sets of 3. could a part have bee missed putting the carb together? i remember there were a couple of parts that used the word accelerator but i'm not sure this relates to the accelerator pump. is this normal (having to open the throttle during kick) or is this really a sign the valves need to be checked? i figure this is the next step. the carb clean didn't make the issue of the idle not quite doing down all the way smooth w/o really lowering the idle. if i even raise it a bit, the revs go down normally until the last few hundred and then kinda hangs a little for 2-3 seconds and then goes all the way down. so we're talking really high idle here. i've been trying to kick start her and idle for a little bit the last few weeks. seems consistent i have to open the throttle a little to get her started even with 3-4 twists of the throttle with the choke on. only 19.4 hours total (from 18.2 or 18.4 before the carb cleaning). i'm mainly doing all this to sell it and not be that kind of seller. it's red sticker so it's almost over soon for this season even if i wanted to use it and put around. too small for me to ride, not a mx type rider but this was more flat track mini-bike purpose before the only place that does it closed.
  2. high_revs

    honda150r problems ask away

    will try this. thanks. i guess even gas saver doesn't do as well also (i forgot to mention that). yeah, the valve check job is pretty near if not just due now. i'll also check the areas of concern and might as well check the carb and jets.
  3. high_revs

    honda150r problems ask away

    i have a 2007 crf150rb (aka expert). i don't run it as much as 1.5-2 years ago (usually just local flat track). i switch out the gas every 3-4 months (all of it). put in fresh and run it a little. here are my problems. * hard to start but i noticed if i blip open the throttle about 4-5 times, and have my hard ready on choke, it will start and hold idle. if i'm slow on to get on choke, she'll die. (i know vales are probably need some checking as i'm at 18.2 hours per the engine meter. bike has total 18.2 hours only). * adjusting idle doesn't show immediate change. if increasing (kept on dying even after on choke after maybe 1 min), i had to blip the throttle for the higher idle to, well, get higher. else if i just leave it at idle and twist the knob, increase or decrease idle, i don't hear the revs go up or down according to twist. decreasing it, it took maybe 1.5 turns before i noticed the idle decrease. not so on increasing idle. i had to blip throttle. * if i rev it, it doesn't go back to idle quickly. the throttle is fully closed but it sounds like it's partially still open at the very end before it goes back to idle only. revs go down, then then it's like a short period of higher idle, then 2-3 seconds later, it goes all the way down to idle. no manipulation of the throttle at this time. it's fully closed. haven't even adjusted the throttle cables since there's no increase in the slack since i bought it new. (again, only 18.2 hours). someone told me for the last bullet item above, it might be as easy as a vacuum leak. or a valve allowing some air in that shouldn't. i cleaned the air filter 2 months ago. nothing got into the air box. (no power wash, just wiped it down as it's fairly clean and just dust, not baked clay). filter put back on correctly but the person who heard it said it's not the cleaned/oiled filter since that's suppose to let air in anyway. if i'm lucky, it's just a vacuum leak in the carb system. worse case, a valve? ride was rejetted to 140 main, 45 pilot (recommendation here back then from what I recall). stock engine. up to snuff with oil changes/tranny oil changes. the only i think think of is it's not used much for last 1.5-2 years other than changing gas, and running engine for a little. i did take it to the local trail last week. took a little bit of riding before idle stayed (didn't play with it too much). didn't have to twist throttle before kickstarting it since i started fairly easily once really warmed up. so what can I do? remove all carb and clean? where would a vacuum leak be? what would cause idle to not go all the way down smooth once throttle is closed. (wasn't like this before that i recall).
  4. thanks! well, what type of oil is always a easy bait for flaming. LOL (i ride/race road bikes also). it's weird. maybe the bike is not quite even on the stand since when i put 1.2L (with a measuring cup in mL), it wasn't at the middle of the site line. Now I added 1.2L after also putting the bike on its side, filling the both oil filter locations half way (but not the filter themselves since it was just flowing out). so there probably is more than 1.2L in there following the instructions. meh.. i'll just ride it! thanks for confirming at least the 1.2L vs. what I was reading about .6/.7L. p.s. i'm wondering if it's like my ducati. i have to really wait to let it settle so i have a more accurate reading (like over 1 hr?). i usually only fill the ducati till about 1/2 way in the sight window. last time i was waiting only like 5 mins or so, next thing you know, i was at full. LOL
  5. i got some mixed information. i just changed the oil for my 2006 ktm 450xc. i followed most of the manual to the letter. the long screen filter was very clean and i had a little hard time with the small screen filter so i'll just check that on next change. this is the first time i'm changing the oil by the way. the manual says 1.2L. it also says put the bike on its side, fill the area where the oil filters reside halfway. it didn't make sense to fill the oil filters since it'll just flow out. bike came with compflow stainless steel re-usable oil filters. the reason i posted was because there was no oil line level on the oil sight window. it's to the top (not sure who much higher). then i started researching and folks are saying .7 or .6L only. and that there are engine issues that occur with over filling because of the oil sump. which is right? p.s. it's weird that the manual says put cover back on brake reservoir. it wasn't removed or part of the instructions to remove. unless this is because of putting the bike on its side but if i slip/fall, does that mean i have to remove/reinstall the brake reservoir cover again? doesn't make sense what this line in the manual says.
  6. high_revs

    Which Helmet

    yes. that is my preference too. i was just so surprised i didn't my suomy back then when i went the "same" size as a road helmet. it didn't break in, unfortunately. is it me or do dirt bike helmets not get as "snug" as road helmets? maybe it's because the chin area much looser compared to a street helmet.
  7. high_revs

    Which Helmet

    i'm actually thinking of replacing my fly helmet. it's probably about 5 or 6 years old now. no direct crashes on it, but my visor is cracked on one side (unsure how though). plus, it's not realy comfy but i just put up with it. the lower inside feels pretty hard that when i put it on, it feels like i'm putting on a metal washer that hurts a little in the back of my skull. once on, fits fine. anyway, i tried the top line shoei xfx-w, bell moto9 and suomy mr. jump. i'm not a shoei road race helmet (round head here). surprisingly, the large size fit me just fine but no way for the medium. But it did feel heavier even against my old fly. then i tried on the bell moto9. i think the medium fit me fine but the large felt better. i might opt for medium size because of break-in anway. what i noticed about the bell was the super plush padding inside. this was probably the heaviest helmet i tried on. i like the generous padding, but wow, it felt the heaviest. most of my helmets are actually suomy (spec 1r, extreme and even gunwind still). i actually had a suomy before but i sold it right away. a medium in street helmet didn't equate to a medium in dirt bike helmet. i tried on the L and it fit me find. the M won't even go on my head. still the same suomy fit at the bottom. it feels "oval" shaped where your head enters the helmet (like my spec 1r's) but fits fine once past that. but the suomy was the lightest among all of them. (forgot, i also tried a fox but can't remember). as usual i like the lining of the suomy and shoei. the bell was felt plus but can't remember if the same "silky" type feel. do dirt bike helmets usually size 1 up larger over their medium street counterparts? I know for Bell and suomy, i'm a medium having tried them in motorcycle shows.
  8. does anyone get dinged by their internet providers on such torrents? i got dinged by Comcast when I d/l'ed some UFC stuff late last year. Not sure if Speed cracks down on these. I just cut the satellite so I won't see the shows anymore, and it sucks cuz Bubba and his top competitor are on new mfrs.
  9. high_revs

    *** Official CRF150R Swing Arm Recall ***

    did that... after doublechecking a 150RB at the dealer nearby. I'm surprised there's no pinching where the clip is to hold all those hoses above the swing arm pivot. but nonetheless, it's good now.
  10. high_revs

    *** Official CRF150R Swing Arm Recall ***

    ok.. i just picked it up today. it's kinda weird how some of the vent hoses are routed. i'm thinking they could get pinched. does the service manual contain vent hose routing (i have one, though i'd have to dig it out from piles of stuff). i see two of the 4 snuck thru the bottom next to the shock were spliced about 1". else, i'll try to compare it against my friends 150RB this weekend. some pictures. i couldn't sneak the camera in for the ones behind the shock. so i guess i'll have to compare with another bike. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v74/goldenset/150rb_swingarm_recall/
  11. high_revs

    150f to 150rb

    the 150rb is insanely fast the first few times i put it on a TT track. i was coming from a TT125.
  12. high_revs

    *** Official CRF150R Swing Arm Recall ***

    I got the recall letter 2 weeks ago, and have an appointment with a local dealer. oddly, I'm the first one that called about it with them. And they're a popular dealer too. As for the "i don't want to buy something with factory defects" comment... Look at it this way - you have a new part - mfr made a safety recall and spent $$$ to get the part replaced. this should bode confidence that they're getting a "proper" bike from the factory (non-including what you personally do to it of course), and the factory took care of it's customers.
  13. never really noticed this before, so it could be me as i'm picking up more speed on the 150RB and being harder on the brakes. does the lever pull in quite a bit on hard braking? almost to a point it touches your knuckles when 2-finger braking? i bled it today and even switched to my ATE super blue. guess it's not like my road race bike where the lever doesn't go in unless it's really fading. again, i might just be harder on my brakes now that i didn't notice it. someone else with a 150rb experiences the same thing. maybe it's the soft feel of the brakes though it does stop?
  14. high_revs

    bike doesn't rev up when finally warmed up

    yeah... she runs fine. first time i've ridden her in 3 mos due to ankle injury. but runs fine. was just curious why that indicator kinda went away.
  15. with the choke on and warming it up, it doesn't idle up to higher revs like it used to indicating it's warmed up. anything i can check. on one ride going up one section, i forgot to disable the choke and didn't realize that was causing the throttle issues. asked a few peeps and that shouldn't damage anything. but now i'm noticing the idle doesn't go up with the choke on when it's supposed to be warmed up. it will go up if i apply a little throttle though.