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AntonLargiader

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About AntonLargiader

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    Virginia
  1. Here are some shots of the worn parts. I'd like some feedback as to how normal this is, and whether or not I should just reassemble with a new guide. The guide Left side support Right side support:
  2. Old thread I know, but I have the same issue. Our 2000 XR200R has always (we bought it used) had a noisy chain, and I can see that there is this sort of wear on the cylinder. Basically, the guide rail has a support pin running across it about 1/3 from the top, and it seem that this pin is originally encased in plastic when the rail is molded. These pins sit in round recesses in the top of the cylinder. In my case, the plastic covering has worn off the pins and the exposed metal has hogged out the recess in the cylinder somewhat. I'm replacing the rail anyway, but it would be a shame to trash the cylinder for this. However, I'm worried that the new rail pins will wear down quickly because they are not being supported by the correct shape. Also, the rail position will be slightly (maybe 2~3mm) farther away. How normal is this, and do I need to repair or replace the cylinder? I'll post pics soon.
  3. Exactly right, thanks!
  4. I've pulled our 2000 XR200R motor apart to check out a shifting problem and while cleaning the left case half the following part fell out: Looking in the lower engine cases, it's clear that it could have come from anywhere because it will fall to whichever side the bike is dropped. I didn't measure it (d'oh!) but it's too small to go over any of the shafts. I'm guessing 6~7mm ID, 12~13mm OD. The only thing in the bottom end that fits inside it (that I can tell) is the pin that is in the right-side cover which is part of the compression release mechanism, but I don't see how this would play a role there. But for all I know it could have come from the cylinder head. Is there a good online parts fiche or repair manual for this bike which might show it?
  5. The forks aren't in use yet. I was trying to find a previous discussion on this to guide me in the shortening process; if spacing the cartridge gives a poor result then I'll shoot for a different approach. It sounds like I should just go that way first, but I'm still all ears about what other people have noticed after doing this modification.
  6. Is there a functional difference between using a shorter damper rod and putting in a spacer? The 640 uses the same fork with a shorter damper. As for oil level, I don't know that I can lower it. From what I can tell so far, the oil level has to be high enough to let the hydraulic stop work, which happens under full compression. Limiting the extension won't change that. I'll know more once I start to work with them more.
  7. I heard there was a thread here discussing this but I've searched for over an hour and can't find it. Maybe it's in the eternal suspension thread? If someone can provide a link I'll be happy to pick it up there. Otherwise... with WP4860 forks shortened from 300mm down to maybe 265, 270 using an internal spacer behind the top-out spring, is there a reason to expect different damping characteristics mid-stroke? I understand that it won't be the same overall ride because the travel is different, but as far as the piston knowing where it is in the cartridge, I don't see it with those forks. There is, AFAICT, no travel-dependent damping present. The only changes are that the piston is working in a different place in the cartridge, and the oil level relative to the piston will be higher since the fork is always compressed more. This is for a conversion project, so I don't need the 'learn to ride the bike first' speech. It already represents a 40~50mm increase in travel. And yes, I know I'll have to change the spring to get the right rate and sag - that's part of the nature of a conversion. I'm just asking about the nature of the mid-stroke damping, BEFORE the hydraulic stop begins to have an effect.
  8. The stock bars on my '00 XR400 are pretty bent up and I want to replace them with aluminum ones. It has SRC barkbusters on it and I can reinstall them only if I replace the bars with an identical bend, since the SRC parts bolt to the triple clamp and really have no adjustability. I'm not 100% sure that I want the same bend, but if I decide to go this way, what aluminum bars will work? Otherwise, I'm tempted to go with a fatbar and universal adapters. I wouldn't mind the bars being a bit higher. Sounds like the Renthal CR Low is the most popular.
  9. fzrrkid, your PM box is full.