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About Chas_M

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    2 wheel addict; grandkids; street rods; science; fishing; photography

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  1. I'll have to disagree with this. I have had a Tusk thermo cap on my Beta for almost two years now and it has always sealed well and works perfectly. In fact I had a radiator shop pressure test three caps for me: the stock Beta cap, a KTM 1.8 cap and the Tusk cap. The Tusk lifted off way higher than the Beta and KTM caps at 22 psi.
  2. There is nothing wrong with the OCEMR needle as long as you use a much smaller main jet like a 158 or 160. In fact many folks swear by the OCEMP and OCEMR type needles.
  3. Since the OCEMR needle, like all 'E' series needles, has a very rich final taper a 180 main jet is indeed way too big. Something closer to 160 (at sea level) would be more appropriate.
  4. This is true, however the dual braking system is not as efficient as the straight LHRB. I have proven this to myself by comparing my bike with that of several friend's dual braking bikes. On rare occasions I do miss the absence of a foot brake. I do carry a small velcro strap with me to act as an emergency brake when stopped.
  5. What needle are you running? The size of the proper main jet depends to a large extent on the needle taper. A 2 second squirt is longer than necessary. There are several ways to adjust the squirt duration in addition to a leak jet. The easiest way is to use a different AC pump diaphragm with a longer post. The Honda FCR diaphragm has the longest post.
  6. This is all BS.
  7. If your bike has a Brembo clutch master cylinder, the Clake SLR is a perfect match for it. The SLR dovetails perfectly with the Brembo providing two very ergonomic easy to reach levers. The Clake SLR is not overpriced - - cost is similar to or less than the Rekluse LHRB. Since I already had the Brembo clutch MC on my Beta 300RR connected directly to the rear brake caliper for the LHRB, I used the SLR for the clutch override. The SLR can be used for either the LHRB or the clutch override. I have tried the Ox-Brake several times on friend's bikes and while they do work they are not nearly as efficient or as strong as a properly independently set up hydraulic LHRB.
  8. Plus one on the Pro Grip714, although I actually prefer the Pro Grip 737 as it is not quite as fat but is still plush and comfy.
  9. Or add a one tooth larger countershaft sprocket at less expense.
  10. What's your hurry? Why not reduce speeds to 62-64 mph at 7,000 rpm to make it a little easier on the engine.
  11. You don't have to remove the skid plate to change oil but it will be very messy otherwise. The stock skid plate is very easy to remove and replace, at least it is on 300RR's. Use only medium strength Loctite. Do not use Locktite on plastics or on anything associated with plastic like shroud fasteners on gas tank for example. Zip tie the ends of the rubber connector between the muffler and head pipe to prevent oil dripping out. I use hose clamps here rather than zip ties.
  12. That would not work since the 450 and the 500 have the same bore and piston diameter. The 500 has a longer stroke.
  13. The engine would require stroking which of course would not be an easy or inexpensive upgrade. It is possible that Thumper Racing could provide a big bore kit which which may be more reasonable cost wise.
  14. If all else fails, balance the wheels both front and rear.