Jump to content

LowSlide

Members
  • Content count

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Neutral

About LowSlide

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    California
  1. LowSlide

    03 RM250 Jetting

    >there will be less oil = faster flowing through jets, you'll need to go a size or >so leaner. Good tip. I've been wanting to change to 40:1, but didn't think how it'd effect jetting. Thanks.
  2. LowSlide

    My dream RM-Z450

    >The only thing I MUST HAVE on the off road version: A Green Sticker! That is just too painfully true. Suzuki America, I'm here in SoCal, with cash......
  3. LowSlide

    Technique entering corners

    I have to respectfully disagree with the 'too much thinking/don't think about it' comments. Some get lucky, but usually that is the way to bad habits, and then bad habits at higher speeds. Learn the right process, think it thru, slow way down, practice getting your thoughts into physical responses, and then speed up gradually. Semics/Code/Spencer teach that way. My brother was one of those who seems to just get it, but wont' study. But now I'm faster, so I'm grateful for teachers.
  4. LowSlide

    My dream RM-Z450

    Nothings wrong with a 4 speed tranny. A 5th is useful for increasing top speed, and/or serving as an overdrive to save gas on endurance runs. I'm sure others have reasons for different gearing.
  5. LowSlide

    My dream RM-Z450

    1) FI - simply rules 2) Cartridge transmission so I can pick/swap 4/5 speed 3) User spec shocks chosen at time of purchase similar to Honda's 'Build Spec' program for it's VFX bikes 4a) Build spec handle bars/grips 4b) Build spec steering damper either sub mount or top mount option 5) Build spec gas tank 6) Build spec exhaust, but default is 96db so we can all ride for many more years, and comes with plug in spark arrest, easy to take off/put on. Personally, I would easily rather have 2 extra pounds of exhaust pipe on my bike if it would have the same power but a 94db level for the sake of our sport. 7) lightweight Cartridge battery/light system so desert/mx conversion is easy 8)Finally, An green sticker off road model that is not any different in dimensions, except a bit of added weight. No more large YZ vs WR differences. Either an RMZ with a MX pipe, or an RMZ with 5 gears, battery,hot start and trail suspension. It would be cool if the big 4 would make an adjustable frame for taller/shorter people. It's currently easier to fit a bike to a tall person, higher bars, lower pegs, than a short person, cut suspension, cut seat, cut frame. Hopefully, someday the build spec programs will include the ability to make a chassis to fit. Let the dreaming begin......
  6. LowSlide

    RM250 clutch issue

    Good info. Thanks Gone.
  7. LowSlide

    RM250 clutch issue

    >thats normal on a cold engine That has never been my experience on any bike. It wouldn't change out of gear, else I would have.
  8. LowSlide

    RM250 clutch issue

    Anyone had this happen before. Went riding the other day on my 05 RM250 in the desert. Maybe 90 degrees. The ride went well, bike worked great, no noticable problems. When I got the bike home, and tried to pull it off the trailer, the clutch wouldn't engage when I pulled it in, so the rear wheel would not roll, and I had to lift the bike off the trailer. Very odd. As if it got stuck upon cooling or something. Taking it to the shop tomorrow, but wondering if you all have any ideas? BTW, it's a stock clutch w/ approx 20hrs on it. Thanks, lowslide
  9. LowSlide

    2006 YZ250F Corners like a dream !!

    HFD, Good info. Curious, has the straightline stabilty changed at all now that the cornering is so much better? Or is it all good now? thanks, lowslide
  10. LowSlide

    What is proper use of the front brake

    Heh, good point. I wish I had some snow to practice on. Was driving cross the states and saw some bikers out on a frozen lake last winter, and so wished I could do that. One guy could actually wheelie quite a ways on the ice. I was in awe. Lot's to learn on ice.
  11. LowSlide

    What is proper use of the front brake

    In addition to what ThumperWrestler said about the front slowing you down, when your forks are compressed, they turn the best/sharpest at that point. Instead of "Hitting the back brake", it's more accurate to say drag the rear brake. Dragging the rear brake has 3 chassis effects which can be useful at times. It robs some of the forward momentum resulting in less front end dive when stopping with the front brake if applied first. It slows the rebound/extension of the rear shock, which can be helpful for keeping rear end traction on off camber corners. It pulls the bike back and to the inside when turning because the rear is turning less than the front. It helps, for me anyway, to have a small bit of play in the rear brake so that it isn't an on/off switch. Whatever gives you the best feel. I have to practice it. MX boots aren't all that great for feel.
  12. LowSlide

    Lake Arrowhead

    Thanks for the directions Chrispy. What are the trails like at that spot? Beginning? Int? Adv? What's the smallest loop? Thanks, lowslide
  13. LowSlide

    Johnson VAlley info and tips

    Thanks for the heads up guys, and taking the time to post the pics. I hadn't heard of that rock before. Aliens, take me away.......
  14. LowSlide

    What is proper use of the front brake

    Thinking out loud...While front brake is most of your stopping power for sure, and can be all of it, it dives the front end. Which is fine in lots of cases. One case where you will want to keep the front end from over diving out of the suspension sweet spot, can be rough bumps before a corner. Going into those with the front suspension tapped out makes for a rough ride. Hitting the back brake first, and diving a little less, even a 1/2 inch less, keeping the bike more balanced in the suspension, can make for a smoother slowdown, and easier on the wrists.
  15. LowSlide

    What is proper use of the front brake

    Applying the front brake first causes the front to dive as the weight transfers forward, making the rear end light, and easy to lock the rear, and or ineffective in stopping. as Berkeman says. Sometimes you want this. Good for turning/sliding. Hitting the rear brake first, just before the front brake, is beneficial sometimes because it pulls back on the bike, and the bike dives a little less, so the rear end isn't as light and both brakes will have maximum braking traction. Also, in a turn, a little back brake pulls the bike back and to the inside, making turning easier in cases. You also want to lean back when braking, lean forward when accelerating. Approaching a corner, lean back while braking, once at the speed you want, drop onto the front part of the tank and lean forward to accelerate around the corner. Outside elbow up, weight outside peg, etc...Try to release brakes slowly so the suspension doesn't pogo up and down. Squeeze on, squeeze off. G'Luck, lowslide
×