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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

StarsKEY

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About StarsKEY

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    TT Newbie

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    England
  1. Firstly, I race ONLY enduro events, but like to play at the track, hence the bike choice. The problem is the bike has issues with stalling (it's the bike....) in the tight woods when not being revved hard (I have a +11oz flywheel to try and counter this). After a couple of hours racing (Generally three hour events) NOBODY wants to be kicking a bike 20 - 30 times before it fires. Its a no win as the more you kick the more tired your already dead legs become... So, electrics aside (thinking a NimH battery in the airbox, ziptied under the subframe cross member) can I use the crfx engine cases and starter with all my 'r' bits???? I cant be the only one who wants to do this? I bought the bike new, maybe should have gone for an x after all, BUT, lets assume this costs £500, thats less than I'll loose if I swap it for the x now, and the twin pipes look cool! On the poor kicking issue, I have noticed that the bike tends to pour fuel from the overflow if leant over only a very small amount (say 20degrees, or leant against a post on the the lock stop) when not running - is this normal? Any advice would be much appreciated, unless its to go to the gym!
  2. V5 and a number plate, ride the thing to the track. If you have the ped, you'll have a yrs NCB? Do you have no friends who ride? Alternatively, put up with it, thats life bud! My dad has a vespa and played footbal when I was racing my MTB on a weekend.
  3. Very good point! I logged on when I discovered the problem - you'll see I'm a newbie. Had I had no problems I wouldn't have even looked at the site! I did ask the mechanic at the local shop (not the guy I bought from) before I bought the bike and he mentioned the valves, but also made the valid point that all bikes have their problems so the CRF didnt stand out as being overly high maintanance. What I also never mentioned in my last post is that I am looking at changing the bike - for an '06 model, not because of the valve issue, but because I am a tart and like shiny kit, that and to buy a brand new bike from the off seemed a bit foolish - make the mistakes on a cheaper bike (such as dropping it off the trailer etc) I have crossed over from DH MTB and have had the CRF only about 5 months. I had a YZF250 ('02) before that. What I can say is that the CRF seems to have more grunt (I have a suspicion the YZF was tired - I have seen power curves before points are made) and rides much more like my MTB (now I have bar risers on), so with that in mind a 100kg bike that rides like a 40lb MTB must be pretty good! I'm not however convinced its the right tool for the 3 hr enduro's Ive been doing, being the R it seems a bit aggresive in the tight stuff, but my inexperience and skills tuned for the MTB may have a bearing on that.
  4. I bought my '04 crf r secondhand and have just had to file/sand the shims as I has zero clearance. I bought it from a guy who was sponsored by our local shop (he is also a mech there) with a few minor mods (head ports smoothed etc). He raced the bike most weekends and rides hard, the bike is now on its third piston (he did two - orig and supplied spare) I did the third to make sure it was OK and checked the valves then. They required adjustmment. I am aware that the exhaust valves had previously been adjusted (with slimmer shims - obvioulsy have spares at the shop!). Basically he rode it real hard, I tend to ride it hard (I'm more likely to hang a gear and rev out than shift on approach to a corner or other 'obstacle'). Im UK based wich means lots of deep wet mud - obviously in turn means the bike is ridden harder. So in short are the valves a problem? Only if you see it so, I enjoy 'playing' in the garage, lets not forget if you add up the time spent mixing two stroke fuel and refilling the tank twice as often Im sure it would work out in the favour of the 4. This is the first time I had 'done' the valves and it only took a coulpe of hours, it was the festidious obsesive cleaning of everything I took off that took the rest of the time! My opinion.
  5. Further to above - seems the valves are eating their way into the seats. It would appear (from the hundreds of posts) that Honda have made the valve seast softer than the shims. Chin up. Will file the shims, or fit smaller oners. I'm not sure I'll consider new valves until I've filed them at least once...like I said the bike runs fine. Do people know if this is still a problem with the '06 models? Damn good excuse for a new one, especially since this ones dirty.
  6. I have just changed the piston on my '04 CRF 250 - much the same thing on the valve clearances - the Exhaust valves were in spec but there was no clearance under either of the inlet valve rockers. none. tried this with the chain tensioner off, the pistion out (to prevent blowing past TDC). The crank was aligned to the casing (arrow V's dot) the cam pulley was aligned with the top of the casing and the inlet valves were poiting towards the seat (i.e backwards). Bike worked fine before hand. No too fussed really - figured if they werent baggy then all good! Incidentally, I tried rocking them back and forth a few degrees to see if I could get under but still nothing. I didn't buy the bike brand new and I guess (without studying clearances etc) this could be effectively a rough arsed way of getting a higher lift on the inlets? Point to note, everything was in spec after about 25 hours on the piston - looked a bit coked up but thats about it. All went well too until i realised I had left the old cylinder gasket on too - don't laugh, easily done if you have a rag over the crank to prevent the pin rings from falling in - will have to remov again next weekend.......thought it was giong well.