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cityjack

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About cityjack

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    North Carolina

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  1. cityjack

    03' CR250 clutch rebuild kit

    Afternoon all, I run exclusively Hare Scrambles here in NC. Its time for a new clutch and do not remember what type of kit I put in last. its been a long time. I see where EBC is about 120 bucks and TUSK is half that. Any input on the quality or the holding strength of the TUSK units vs EBC? Plus, the Heavy Duty springs. Does anyone know the spring rates of these two? I mean is one heavy duty spring stronger than the other? I do not need to kill myself to pull the clutch in for 2 hours if I do not need to. Thanks Sid
  2. Afternoon all, I ride my CR250 in Hare Scrambles only. I was told by more than a few that a flywheel weight will help greatly. Steahly offers a 10 and 12 oz. Any suggestions on which weight to go with? Thanks Sid
  3. cityjack

    99' YZ125 Reed spacer?

    Thanks for the tip on the screws sir. I'll probably put it on the shelf for the time being and just see how it behaves in stock form. Have a god night all. Sid
  4. cityjack

    99' YZ125 Reed spacer?

    This is a 125, not a 250. But after some research, I see Moose offers a "torque" spacer for like 30 bucks for a YZ125. Seems this is what the previous owner was up to since he was a rather large man, probably searching for bottom end torque to move the mass I'm guessing. Sid
  5. cityjack

    99' YZ125 Reed spacer?

    Evening all, The reed/carb boot that was on my newly acquired bike had a rip in it. I bought a used in good shape one from Ebay. Came with the boot and the reeds cage as well. Went to remove and replace the old ripped one and thats when I found an aluminum spacer between the cylinder and the reed cage. The stock bike in the service manual and on exploded diagrams for my year and years around mine show no spacer. What the heck man? What is this spacer for? Why would it be on my bike do you think? If I go back to stock or what I think is stock with no spacer, will the air box boot reach the carb since there is now no spacer essentially pushing the carb further back towarsd the air box. Thanks Sid
  6. cityjack

    Mysterious part falls out of 99' YZ125

    Hey, The petcock is in fine shape, but the tank wasn't on the bike when it fell over either. Please see the attached pics of the carb. I do see some faint black numbers on the side. Hard to see what they say though.
  7. cityjack

    Mysterious part falls out of 99' YZ125

    Thanks guys. I thought about the top of the carb too where the throttle cable is gently bent towards the front of the bike to prevent kinks. But I think its just something the previous owner lost and never recovered and it just fell from somewhere when the bike tipped in my garage. Last question, I do not think the carb is stock either. Any way to tell exactly what Mikuni was on the bike for that year? I see absolutely no numbers at all anywhere on the carb. Just Mikuni. Not even sure what size carb was on the bike for that year. All I know is the jetting is WAAAYYY off for stock. Not sure if he put the wrong or what he thought was the correct jets in a stock carb or put another all together different carb on the bike. After looking at pics of mine vs ebay pics, I'm thinking this is a 2000 carb I have the bottom drain outlet on mine is at an angle away from the bowl and the 1999 should be parallel with the side of the bowl. plus the main jet access plug is differently shaped. Anyway to know if the size of the carbs are the same? Where do I measure the bore at? Thanks for all the help guys. Sid
  8. cityjack

    Mysterious part falls out of 99' YZ125

    Possibly. It is about the diameter of what a throttle cable would go through. In my experience, the fuel pipe is much larger than this. The jetting is all screwed up from stock too. He has a 460 main, a 25 pilot and the air screw is bottomed out all the way in. Its got a FMF fatty on it, but it is a Mikun. but I cannot see any other numbers on the carb though. Not sure if its even the stock carb. This is bothering me.
  9. Hey all, I just picked up a used and abused YZ125. Not bad shape, but nevertheless, neglected. I was emptying the oil out of the crank case and the bike slipped out of my hand and banged into my bench. N harm, but the atached piece in the pic fell from somewhere. Its a hollow metal tube with a rubber piece over it in the middle as you can see. Not sure if the previous owner just dropped it and couldn't or didn't care to find it and it just finally fell off the bike. Or, did I knock it loose from somewhere. I looked everywhere on this bike and even over every exploded diagram and do not see this part going anywhere. Anybody have any idea where it could go or what it is? Thanks Sid
  10. cityjack

    New project, 2001 YZ125N1

    Thank you doc. I'll find me the stock 125 shock and go from there. I need to go through the carb it looks like too. It starts, its runs but just blubbers on the throttle god knows what he did to the insides. Figured I'd start with stock jetting and go from there as well. Thank you sir. Sid
  11. cityjack

    New project, 2001 YZ125N1

    Morning all, I just picked up an 01 YZ125 from a kid who didn't take the best care of it. The bike is complete, but you can see its been neglected. It does run and I will go through it entirely and take my time as I have my CR250 to race on the weekends. This is a project that maybe by summer it'll be ready,funds willing. Here is my question. As I was looking the bike over last night a little more closely, I saw that he had the rear coil spring tightened down/tight as far as it would go. I never met the kid I bought it from as I bought it through another person. I am assuming he was a bit big given the preload on the rear spring. I decided to loosen the collars to release the tension on the spring and thats when I noticed the rear shock compression adjuster looked different. There was no High speed compression nut. Just a low speed screw. I thought maybe the shock came this way for that year. I then looked at the service manual and saw that indeed the shock for that year did come with both high and low speed adjusters. This shock that I have is not stock for this bike and I have no idea where it came from. I started looking on ebay for a shock, but then thought, maybe I shouldn't get a stock shock if I'm 195lbs. Yes I know I'm too heavy and big for a 125, I am 6'3. I just wanted something to play with. Should I get the stock shock and just put a heavier spring, or are there other options? Thanks Sid
  12. Evening all, I have read numerous posts on here about adjusting the valve. I just put a fresh top end in and totally removed and cleaned the whole power valve assembly. Now I have the RC valve assembled back and adjusted the cables as the manual says exactly. I understand how a power valve works. I understand that when the valve actuator is fully CW on the stop pin it is closed at low rpm and when fully CCW high rpm the valve is open. What I do not understand is, I read an article where this person set the gap between the bottom of the rear cable tube to the top of the actuator at full CW on the pin stop, to 12mm. My valve adjusted as the book says is less than that. About 3 or 4 threads less, Whatever that comes out to be mm. He claims better bottom end response and torque. I do not understand what that 12mm is doing for him or what it is doing to the servo motor or valve timing. Can someone explain please in detail? Thanks Sid
  13. cityjack

    110/90-19 or 120/90-19?

    Evening all, My son is taking his 07' to HiPoint in two weeks for a qualifier. We have only run 120's on the rear. The shop is offering up 2 free tires to him where he works. he wants to know if he should stay with a 120 or drop down to a 100. Any thoughts guys? Thanks Sid
  14. cityjack

    07 Top triple clamp choice

    evening all, I have searched and looked to see what others have bought or liked. I just split my OEM top clamp this weekend. I need to replace with something better. I am not going to put back on another cast piece of crap. Applied needs two weeks to machine and anodize. About 220.00 for top clamp, rubber cones,individual bar mounts/clamps and hardware. I'd like to get something before this weekend which means I need to order tomorrow. I see there is a company called ZETA. Anyone have any experience with them? I am also looking at ProTaper as well. RG3 and Pro Circuit are CRAZY expensive. All input is wanted and appreciated. Sid
  15. cityjack

    Muffler to headpipe joint seal

    Thanks for the reply Highmarker, but the bar cap was not the problem. It was the triple clamp itself that cracked in half when torquing the fork pinch bolts. I am in need of a uppler triple clamp now. Checked with Applied Racing. They can make one for my 07, they do not stock that old they told me. However, it will not be the RS new series. their old style, which is still very good in my opinion. But if they start machining it tomorrow, they anodize over the weekend which means I iwill not get my clamp until the end of next week. Looking at ProTaper top clamps. 80 bucks more than Applied. RG3 is insanely expensive and so is ProCircuit. Can you think of another top clamp manufacturer that is machined from billet that is decent? I'd like to place the order tomorrow and get it before the weekend. I'd like to stay in the 220.00 range with bar clamp, rubber mounts and hardware. Let me know what you think. Sid
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