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teh cooooooooool

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About teh cooooooooool

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  1. teh cooooooooool

    piston wear = bottom end power loss = arm pump

    Yeh yeh tried it today, no good. Doesn't matter where the throttle is. I just know with a fresh piston it will run like new again so im just gonna wait till i get one to ride again cause really if i cant go fast im not gonna get faster until i got nothing holding me back.
  2. teh cooooooooool

    piston wear = bottom end power loss = arm pump

    I wasn't saying it was the throttle, i was saying the fact that i lose bottom end causes me to twist the throttle, more so than before the bottom end power loss. By loosening it off and bringing it forward the absolute angle that my wrist is at when pinned will be less than before. Only problem is im too poor to pay for fuel so i can try it! lol
  3. teh cooooooooool

    sliding out around corners

    Weight the outside peg more and make ur butt light on the seat, also tire pressure, make sure when u poke ur tire u can press down a bit, just make sure it doesn't feel too solid or too soft an it should be right, or just check with a guage, also what have u done to your bike? is the gearing standard? How heavy are you? is your suspension setup properly?
  4. Ever since i started riding again after a 4 year break with an injury i've been having this terrible problem with hand pain. And over time i've come up with a 100 different theories for why i get it and how to get rid of it. and at times i have gotten rid of it without realising what the actual difference was between when i had it and when it went away. Now i've come to the conclusion that having the race sag higher rather than lower, according to your height of course, helps, but doesn't fix it. Having your bars in the right position helps, but doesn't fix it, being fit and riding heaps helps, but doesn't fix it, likewise with excercise. The main thing i've noticed that gets rid of it is having a fresh piston which in turn means i've got all the power i need to make riding my bike the easiest. But of course i can't afford to keep putting pistons in it, or even right now, i can't try out a high comp piston like a friend suggested to me, to help keep that bottom end power a fresh piston has. So now the next step was to put my throttle forward, which i thought could be the root of the problem, whereas i was finding the main cause of the pain was when i had to have my wrist arched more than normal because of the bottom end power loss. Now i am yet to try this but as soon as i can ill let you all know the result, regardless though a fresh piston or just a high comp piston i believe will be the fix for my problem but obviously that fix has draw backs, but we'll see. Oppinions:
  5. teh cooooooooool

    what oils not to run? first honda

    Most in-depth opinion i've ever read. Really, tell us why. I'd like to know as this is the oil i run.
  6. teh cooooooooool

    running rough

    New piston an rings in order you think?
  7. teh cooooooooool

    running rough

    changed my intake valves, ran fine for 4 months, changed my exhaust valves, ran fine for another 4 months, then it started running rough as guts in between the low to mid power, got the valves adjusted, they were out, got it back still ran rough as hell, replaced the throttle cable cause it was loose as and got it jetted for more down low, ran pretty much perfect for the first hour then started running a bit rougher, next time i rode it, it ran rougher and now it's running really rough, it's like unless im revving it at least half throttle to full throttle, it's really stuttering, but it runs perfect at high revs. Could it be that i just wasted my time adjusting the valves and they're out again and i just need new valves? or is it something else?
  8. teh cooooooooool


    How old are you dude? That sounds like something an old dude would say. Here's a tip, there is no sight glass on crf250s.
  9. teh cooooooooool


    Yeh i bought my bike 2nd hand with no owners manual. I use high quality oil called motul. I think what 248kid said is a good way to measure how long before i should change the oil. Every 1 and a half tanks should be about right, and if i find the oil getting dark about then, or before then, ill simply change it sooner. My valves have been wearing out sooner than they should. I have been pretty good with my oil changes and spot on with cleaning my air filter. My mechanic mentioned something about emptying the carby by laying it over after each ride to clean out the dust from the overflow hose because it sucks dirt up into it. And i have read something about that on here before but then it was dismissed, however i dont think my mech would mention this for no reason. But then again the only thing thats changed on the 06's is the valve seat material and the valves are holding up for a lot longer right?
  10. teh cooooooooool


    How soon should i change my oil. Some people say 3 hours, some people say 3 rides, 3 rides could mean riding sat/sun then the next satday, which could add up to like 10 hours riding easy. I change my oil at least every 8 hours, but when i took my bike to my mech he said my shim buckets were pitted out from not changing my oil soon enough. I use motul 50W. Is it any different for other brand bikes?
  11. teh cooooooooool

    Thinking about getting excels

    Protective stuff? &%$#@! are you talking about.
  12. teh cooooooooool

    The thing that pisses me off

    Is there any way that i can make my oil last longer? It has to be changed every 3 hours right? I think that is absolutely rediculous, but as i just learned, it's completely neccesary with these oil inefficient bikes. My shim buckets were all pitted out, supposedly from leaving the oil for too long. Would there happen to be some sort of new design or bike that is going to prolong how long the oil lasts?? This is reall annoying.
  13. teh cooooooooool

    removing head questions

    Thanks a bunch guys. I should be able to complete the task now.
  14. teh cooooooooool

    removing head questions

    I am simply removing the head to take it away to get fixed. Can i get the cam chain off the cam gear without removing the cam? I am trying to get the header out of the head, but the friggin ring that goes over the studs wont come off, it goes about 4 threads from the end and it wont budge, something has to be bent, i've tried knocking the top stud but that didn't help, i can't lever it off, i can't get either of the studs out, i dont think i can bash the ring so what can i do? I was thinking of just pulling the head out of the frame with the header still in it but i dont think it will fit through. Any help??
  15. teh cooooooooool

    3 ride CRF wont start?

    Cam chain jumped a tooth? Do you think these bikes are made by idiots? How could they allow such a thing to happen.