anywhere on land

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About anywhere on land

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  1. I don't even know why you'd say cruiser, I'll just pretend I didn't read that part. A sportbike is a compromise. They are made for tracks that always have at least one long straight and a wide sweeper where horsepower and aerodynamics are important. A supermoto is the absolute quickest thing through tight curves and people who appreciate technical riding and like to turn either have or really want a supermoto style bike. You do know that supermoto is a type of racing, don't you? If you watch supermoto racing and still don't get it, there's just no hope for you. If you think a dual sport with a 21" front wheel can even come close to turning like a motard with 17s and sticky rubber than you just have no idea what those things can really do. Again, watch the races.
  2. Weight on a dual sport is not an issue related to an "extra hundreth of a second". That's why they only have single cylinder engines. If hp matters more than weight why not buy some twin cylinder pig made in germany? Or a hayabusa.
  3. That's very similar to mine. I bought two Moose inner mounts and bent my pieces out around the stock plastic so they run between the inner mounts and the bar end weights. My bar end weights stay in place fine, and these have taken hits and work great.
  4. Don't use them both! One or the other. I've heard some IMS tanks come cut out so that the o-ring doesn't have a place to seal. If this is the case, it won't do you any good. If you have just the hole cut out, use only the o-ring. If you don't have a cutout that can use the o-ring I'd get the pingle. Either way, throw the flat cutout gasket away, it's crap.
  5. Aside from looking ugly, tall windshields get in the way when climbing steep grades on trails, dirt or offroad. I'm using a National Cycle deflector, which seems to have the best adjustments and it's quick release, but it's really nothing fancy. When I'm standing and climbing a particular grade that I ride often, my torso somewhere around my waist just barely contacts the top of the shield. It's not bad, but I can't imagine how bad a parabellum would be in my way.
  6. At 70 mph (according to GPS) the speedometer seems about 3 mph over on my 2005.
  7. You mean close the throttle?
  8. Well my 650 is fine at 90 mph. Maybe that's the difference.
  9. Is it kind of jingly? That drove me nuts for a while on my '05 until I realized it was just the loose fit passenger pegs rattling in their mounts.
  10. If you want mileage, just stick with the stock jetting. Riding at about 60 mph I was getting 55mpg, and I weigh 300 lbs. I know that I'll at least get close to that again as I try to tune for a power/mileage compromise.
  11. I've been meaning to make some racks and aluminum panniers but haven't gotten around to it yet. I'm going to use the same mounting points as the happy trails rack, but I'll probably make them from chromoly and a bit different design. My tail rack is just mild steel:
  12. I used a corbin in the mojave and california/baja and the seat never got hot. I'm not even sure why the gel seat would get hot, but anyway I'd definitely recommend the corbin, and I don't even like corbins. Their seat for the DR is one of the few corbins I like. The bike didn't have any real problems in the heat, but it definitely was a little down on power in the 100+ temps. I mostly noticed it around the mexican border when I was trying to follow a faster bike and pass cars on a two lane twisty at 85 mph and up. You might not have a problem with it feeling slower in the heat with a KLR, but then maybe it's just because it feels slower all the time.
  13. Right, but what IS that exactly? If it's not speed, acceleration, handling or stopping? I think people say it's better on the road because it seems like that's the only thing it COULD be better at. But it's really not.
  14. How is it less competent on the road? It's faster, handles better and stops better.
  15. Yes, the KLR was designed in 1987 and is unchanged since, the DR was designed in 1996 and is unchanged since. It's good for parts availability for a motorcycle to have a long run, but KLR is going on 20 years and it really shows when you look at the brake components, fork tube diamter, etc. Not to mention take a good look at the frame and compare it to the DR's. Also, despite the added complexity of liquid cooling, the KLR's engine actually makes less power than the oil-cooled DR's. Also, If you're worried about touching, the DR comes with a built in lowering trick that drops it 2 inches, I think. What the KLR gives you that the DR doesn't, is: windshield, better seat, big gas tank. Most who tour change the seat anyway, and the tank is big but it is steel and fragile and most people add tubular cages that protect the vulnerable radiator and the gas tank. May as well just buy the DR and change the seat and tank--you'll end up with a better seat and a tough plastic tank.