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woollybull

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About woollybull

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    Australia
  1. Learn to ride and you won't stall it. Get good at it and you can gear it up , not down.
  2. But his positive attitude to technical riding is better than yours. He doesn't make excuses.
  3. If you find yourself a small dirt dump with fairly packed dirt, it should be natural fall at about 45 deg.(Loose dirt is very rideable but harder to learn on.) Ride up the mound far enough for both wheels to be on the full incline. Apply your front brake to hold yourself there and you will slide backwards. Imagine at that point what would happen if you were 60 metres up. Try it again and apply the back brake, and it will hold you! Going down a steep hill is the same principle in reverse. The back wheel is pretty useless on loose surface, and because you need to use front brake for controlling you speed, if you touch your back brake, or engage a low gear, the bike c of g will try to go past the front wheel resistance because you have no braking effect on back wheel, it would skid and try to go past you. We prefer to go down long hills with motor off, out of gear and with the clutch held in ‘just in case’. Some bikes have a ‘false neutral’ between the higher gears which can be handy. In any case, select a high gear and use you momentum as you level out to clutch start your bike if you want(to go back up) The faster you go down, the more inertia the front wheel has and less likelihood that the front brake will grab. Wet grass of a similar angle will give you similar results. You might get away with back wheel sliding if you don’t use your front brake on short hills and lesser inclines, but they might not be real hill climb challenges unless they have other obstacles. Roadwork earthworks have some great natural fall hills. On the pegs up and down. Don't let the seat touch your bum on the way down or it will upset your balance.
  4. If you say it enough, I guess you will believe it. You must have taken advice from Dwight to lower your gearing on a MX bike in the woods. That’s why you have break-out problems. Riders in my group gear up for bush riding. The reasons are given in another post on Hill Climbs. There is no doubt a real culture out there to fit the quick fixes first, then go learn to ride. You say you are not nitpicking, but of course you are. The forum culture among the regulars seems to be to challenge the credibility of the newbie poster if he doesn’t agree. Wonder how many young riders with something to contribute don’t post for fear of a grilling. Since you ask, I am currently setting up a bike for adventure touring. If you wish, Velosapieus, I will forward you a riding log, to ensure that I have done the required MX riding within a period to qualify to comment. To ride (practice) at 5 mph in Trials type terrain, requires use of clutch and – front brake with throttle at the same time, a skill that some mxers don’t seem to have.(according to some posts)
  5. A lot of ego massaging going on here. I suppose if we were all sponsored by companies who sell aftermarket easy fix devices, we would have no technical riding technique opinions from anyone. Unfortunately, every rider who puts forward alternative solutions to quick fixes has his credibility questioned, i.e. “he must only ride open trails” etc.
  6. Thanks Trials Man. Would you have us compete in enduro and pony express on a trials bike? Or are you against dirt bikes in the woods? So if we put on a flywheel weight, that means that we wouldn’t cut up the bush? Nobody would disagree with the difference that 13 pounds of flywheel weight would make to a motocross bike, but; The Trials bike quoted with 13 pounds of flywheel on 145 lb bike = 8.97% Standard crf250r has 18 oz flywheel on 210 lb bike = 0.542 % Add 6 oz = 24 oz “ “ “ = 0.710 % We are talking chalk and cheese here with a trials bike. Maybe you would notice the small difference in bumper to bumper traffic on a bitumen road, but coming quickly round a tight corner, braking, and getting up over a log, I don’t think so. With your extra 6 oz, if you don’t have clutch, throttle, brake and body weight transfer skills, you won’t do it anyway. There have been plenty of testimonials to Dwight’s credibility, which he doesn’t need. How about some technical explanations for your beliefs on flywheel weight – as young 99wr400 has done?
  7. All the time. I learned to ride and raced mx and enduro on RM250 and YZ490(sorry to mention 2 smoke), neither would idle. Unlike you, I don't see the mx bikes as having flaw in the woods. RM250 by far the best/fastest bike in tight scrub because it is light a light bike and body weight transfer has more effect, and can manipulate optimum absorbtion of the front shocky. If you ride with clutch and throttle fully coordinated, abrupt power is controlled. Practised masses of trials type riding(still do every day) on mx bike, but I don't have a mx bike now. I now live on the edge of a forest. My DR650 (with 606's fitted) is high geared in the tight, but still jumps around without stalling. Good practice for when I step onto the DR250 which is great. regards
  8. Good on you kid. If you need to fit extra flywheel weight onto a bike to stop it from stalling, you are doing lots wrong. It is a pity that a young enthusiastic rider, prepared to practice the proper skills intead of looking for easy fixes, is pidgeoned holed as an "amateur" because he dares to have a different (correct) opinion to the establishment.
  9. Dwight, I appreciate your input greatly, but I disagree with you. For a rider riding a mx bike that is not set up to idle, there is no reason why a rider should not learn to be able to ride at walking pace in extreme tight conditions, over logs and washouts etc., by learning the skills of clutch, throttle, brake and body position control. If he can't master those skills, by all means go for the industry sales pitch, which, no doubt would help the trials type riding, but why would you retard the engine acceleration on a motor cross bike if you still want to use it for mx? I am not accusing you of a sales pitch, but in my opinion, the industry is forever keen to promote easy fixes for young blokes who first need to learn to ride. Most guys I have ridden with run their gearing high thru the scrub to spread the gearing. A club I belonged to in Sydney had an annual club championship weekend which consisted of 5 disciplines which were: motocross, enduro, trials, dirt track and road racing. Riders had to use the same bike for all disciplines. Bikes were locked up with no mods allowed except tyre changes for Dirt track and Road racing. Most riders raced mx bikes, with enduro the bulk of the rest. Best regards
  10. Dwight Do you mean champions? Like to think that this was a skills forum rather than a marketing launch pad.
  11. Do some trials riding over rocks, up and down creek banks. Leave your gearing high. Forget flywheel weight(might as well get an ag-bike if you do that) Learn to feather the clutch and throttle control on the pegs. Practice on the pegs leaning and steering the bike with throttle and clutch. Lock your legs into the bike. Those disciplines will stand you in good stead for all dirt riding. regards
  12. Ever seen a Trials rider sitting down? They only have a token seat out of the way of your backside.
  13. Hi, My experience was as you intend to do. Coast down a hill with motor off until he is totally in control of brakes without turning the throttle. Once the bike takes off with the kid pulling on the throttle, we are talking crash unless you have a harness on him. If he can ride a bike without trainers, he doesn't need them on the motorbike. Would be a good idea to de-power the throttle to your running speed. Always found most problems with visitors who insisted that their child could handle it.
  14. Hi all, I have found with hill climbs that the maximum climb angle is approx 45 deg on loose dirt which is natural fall, unless you are running up a wall. In any case you run at the highest gear you can, depending on the base run-up. This gives you the momentum, and your wheels are transferring the low horsepower - high torque. High revs - low gear means the tyre will break traction easier and you are gone. In a higher gear, the motor revs should dip before the tyre breaks out, so then change down as required.(whilst standing up) No matter what, you should be on the pegs. If you sit down, invariably your feet will come off the pegs and you finish up peddling and your seat is banging on your bum, taking away control. You can still easily duck branches and change directions on the pegs. When you get as far as you can and it is obvious that you are going to stop, swing to the right so that you can stop(sitting) on the side of the hill with your foot on the back brake.(Go left and your foot wont touch the ground) If you have picked your spot right, you should be able to 'handle bar left',front brake off', run front wheel back,'front brake on, 'handle bar right' so the front wheel faces down hill. On the way down, use the front brake only(on the steep hills). Stay on the pegs, don't let the seat hit your bum. Go as fast as you can manage because the faster your wheel is spinning, the less likely that the brake will grab. If you are racing, don't drop into gear on the hill that is too low for your speed or your back wheel will go past you. Welcome any comments
  15. Yes, stock shockies and only just settled at 2000 kilometers on the clock.