ridereddns

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About ridereddns

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Oklahoma
  1. Weisco basically told me good luck. No biggie, just trashed the piston, new jug, crank. I have always used JE but conviced by a buddy, I dropped in the Weisco. I replaced this with a Namura and been riding the bike since. http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd257/ridereddns/?action=view&current=SANY0716.jpg
  2. I appreciate your response. I will add that to my parts list. I have decided to minimally, go ahead and slap a big bore on. I have started gathering all the stuff I don't want any more together and selling it off. My plan is to tear the motor down this weekend and inspect. If other damage is found ie the crank, I will stroke the motor. So far the parts list is as follows: Main bairings, trans bairings, 2nd gear bushing, CS Seal, RHC valves and springs, Athena 440, and if other damage is found it will be a 470 with a Hot Rod. Can you add anything else to this list that would be best practice for a rebuild, commonly worn items and such.
  3. I have been having a similar problem as in this post: Engine/Clutch noise Hello to all, my topic of discussion has been searched to no avail so I am posting to see if anyone may have any ideas. To start with, I ride a 05 DRZ400s, full system yosh, FCR Pumper jetted to burned specs, MCCT with proper tension applied and approximately 15,000 miles. I recently went on our annual Ride Oklahoma DS rally. I rode the bike to the event appoximately 250 miles highway and developed a noise somewhere in the bottom end and it boggles my mind what it could be. The engine runs fine but when in gear and rolling with the clutch in, it makes a moaning noise especially in the lower gears. While in route to the location I did notice that the clutch lever seemed to be having some vibration stransmission from the cable which can also be felt at the engine lever itself. Thought it could be just dirt causing it to drag a little at the time. The noise seems to be more prevelent at the clutch side of the engine. In neutral, running or not, while rolling in makes no noise other than chain noise. In gear with engine off it moans if you roll it with the clutch in and again it is quiet if switched to neutral. It seems to have more drag while in gear with clutch in and engine off while pushing it. I have never changed the clutch plates but it seems to me if the clutch was going out it would be the opposite, less drag and it would slip. Currently it does not slip at all and engages just fine. Switching gears is smooth as normal. I have ridden the bike hard but I have always been meticulous with the maintenance to include all the fixes as recomended in this forum, (thank you all, especially Eddy . I have done the loctite fix to all the bolts in the Stator and starter, Counter shaft sprocket. I have not done the Primary nut fix yet cause I figured I would wait until my water pump leaked but it has not yet. I spoke with a few DRZ owners at the Rally and the opinions veried but Some said is sounded like a bairing was going out and that I might as well start breaking the cases apart, and others think it is simply the clutch. I have always been religious with the oil changes, never over 1500 miles but usually less depending on my riding conditions on or off road. I have always used Spectro Golden semi syn 10w40 but I cannot get it anymore so I used Castrol 4T fully synthetic just before I hit the road. I also cleaned the filter screen just before I left for the trip. When I got back I did pull the Clutch cover off and looked inside but everything looked ok in there but I did not pull the clutch basket out. I changed the oil today and put regular Petroleum Castrol 4t in the bike, the noise remains. My question is, has anyone had anything simular to this when the clutch is going out? I just need some advise before I decide a plan of action. I have little $ to work with right now so I am trying to fix it as cheaply as possble by doing my self but if needed I can take this or that off before I go to the dealer to save money would be great. I am a fairly good mechanic with the basics like valves and top end but my first hand knowledge of the inside of the DRZ motor is limited because its never broke on me before and its been like a rock and taken me everywhere and never left me stranded. Sorry to give so much detail but I figured it would save on possible questions later in the thread. This bike is my baby and I depend on it daily and I don't want to be forced to ride the tagged XR4 if need be because its not a DRZ. Any help or suggestions are really appreciated. I finally pulled the right side case off last night and everything looked really good as far as the clutch goes. It seems that I have a bairing going out after all. I would guess that it is the main bairing as they are called next to the primary nut, which was tight. I have a manual on order so I suppose I will be taking the whole dang engine apart to start looking at all the bairings. My question is, do I need to look a the counter shaft also because I have had my counter come loose? I think that my rear wheel has always spun a little while in gear with the clutch in and tire off the ground. Any suggestions or easier fixes for repairing this bairing or is it as it looks, pull the motor and split the cases. Any suggestions are appreciated. I miss my DRZ
  4. That is correct, it makes the noise when rolling with engine on, increasing as you down shift, for instance rolling and downshifting at a stop sign. Engine off it makes the noise when you pull the clutch in as you push the bike and decreases if you upshift, which is accutely different from what I am used to hearing. When cruising, I do not hear any noise that I can make out until I pull the clutch in, of course the noise does not become really audible until about 3rd or 4th gear then it progressively gets louder until you get to 1st. The engine always made noise as you down shift if you were rolling faster than the gear you would really need but it is about four times louder than what I would say is normal. If the sprocket and chain are off the bike, you only hear gear noise as you let the clutch out but the vibrating clutch arm still exists. I would say that the cluch feals like a decompression lever if you were to lightly pull it in as the motor runs. I have verified that noise is not coming from the drive train. I have new JT steel spockets with all the teeth intact with a Regina Z Ring chain.
  5. Hello to all, my topic of discussion has been searched to no avail so I am posting to see if anyone may have any ideas. To start with, I ride a 05 DRZ400s, full system yosh, FCR Pumper jetted to burned specs, MCCT with proper tension applied and approximately 15,000 miles. I recently went on our annual Ride Oklahoma DS rally. I rode the bike to the event appoximately 250 miles highway and developed a noise somewhere in the bottom end and it boggles my mind what it could be. The engine runs fine but when in gear and rolling with the clutch in, it makes a moaning noise especially in the lower gears. While in route to the location I did notice that the clutch lever seemed to be having some vibration stransmission from the cable which can also be felt at the engine lever itself. Thought it could be just dirt causing it to drag a little at the time. The noise seems to be more prevelent at the clutch side of the engine. In neutral, running or not, while rolling in makes no noise other than chain noise. In gear with engine off it moans if you roll it with the clutch in and again it is quiet if switched to neutral. It seems to have more drag while in gear with clutch in and engine off while pushing it. I have never changed the clutch plates but it seems to me if the clutch was going out it would be the opposite, less drag and it would slip. Currently it does not slip at all and engages just fine. Switching gears is smooth as normal. I have ridden the bike hard but I have always been meticulous with the maintenance to include all the fixes as recomended in this forum, (thank you all, especially Eddy . I have done the loctite fix to all the bolts in the Stator and starter, Counter shaft sprocket. I have not done the Primary nut fix yet cause I figured I would wait until my water pump leaked but it has not yet. I spoke with a few DRZ owners at the Rally and the opinions veried but Some said is sounded like a bairing was going out and that I might as well start breaking the cases apart, and others think it is simply the clutch. I have always been religious with the oil changes, never over 1500 miles but usually less depending on my riding conditions on or off road. I have always used Spectro Golden semi syn 10w40 but I cannot get it anymore so I used Castrol 4T fully synthetic just before I hit the road. I also cleaned the filter screen just before I left for the trip. When I got back I did pull the Clutch cover off and looked inside but everything looked ok in there but I did not pull the clutch basket out. I changed the oil today and put regular Petroleum Castrol 4t in the bike, the noise remains. My question is, has anyone had anything simular to this when the clutch is going out? I just need some advise before I decide a plan of action. I have little $ to work with right now so I am trying to fix it as cheaply as possble by doing my self but if needed I can take this or that off before I go to the dealer to save money would be great. I am a fairly good mechanic with the basics like valves and top end but my first hand knowledge of the inside of the DRZ motor is limited because its never broke on me before and its been like a rock and taken me everywhere and never left me stranded. Sorry to give so much detail but I figured it would save on possible questions later in the thread. This bike is my baby and I depend on it daily and I don't want to be forced to ride the tagged XR4 if need be because its not a DRZ. Any help or suggestions are really appreciated.
  6. I just completed the DJ mod to my 05 DRZ400 and it was a breeze due to all the helpfull dudes here at TT. (Thanks Burned). The bike runs awsome now and wheelies at ease without clutch, and thats with a 16 tooth sprocket on the front. After you figure out that you have to man handle the airbox rubber backwards, everything else will be a snap. Also found that it was alot easier to break the carb screws loose using a good pair of pliers (Klein). Stock screws are butter. Stock 142.5 mj, 25 pj, DJ spring and needle, 3x3 airbox cutout, 2 1/2 turns out on the fuel screw. Big bang for the buck, go for it.