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Russ S

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About Russ S

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Location
    Kansas
  • Interests
    DRZ400S / hooligan mod
  1. Thanks much for the info and the advice.
  2. Can anyone help me with the clamp dimensions for 43mm USD forks used on early 90s CR125/250s? I'm looking for the diameter of the outer tubes where the upper and lower triple clamps attach. I need the info for a frankenbike project. Thanks
  3. I thought it was a little too coincidental that my nephew stopped by yesterday to ask my opinion on exactly the same scenario that you presented...going to Africa to do mission work and trying to decide between an E or S (among other choices). He confirmed that you are the person he was asking the questions for. I own an '00 S model and have done a lot of bolt-on mods: RM USD forks, FMF SS header with Q pipe, Stage 1 Hotcams, FCR-39 carb, Rekluse autoclutch, 3x3 airbox opening, case guards, radiator guards, manual cam chain tensioner, corbin seat, clark 3.9 tank etc,etc. I like the DRZ. If you get an S, there is a lot of performance difference between the stock BSR CV carb and the FCR-39 MX that comes on the 00-06 E model. That carb will cost you some money. Also the stock front suspension on my '00 S is poor but can perform well with Racetech cartridge emulators. The E already has a good carb and suspension. The DRZs are both heavy compared to the WR 250 or any MX bike for that matter but having grown up in Ethiopia myself, I think you will end up being a little more careful to avoid injury to your body and your bike than you might in the USA, especially way off in the Omo. That is to say, I think you will be OK with the extra weight.......nobody to compete with out there. Have you asked your uncle his opinion. I think he owned a DRZ. Russ
  4. Thanks for the info.
  5. Thanks to all the info posted on this forum regarding KTM 17" wheels fitted to a DRZ, I bought a set off a 625 SMC on Ebay. I didn't pay careful attention 'cause I was so excited to win the bid and didn't research that the 625 rear wheel has a 5" rim with a 160mm tire, not the 4.25" rim I expected. All is well..... it fits!!....very tight clearances, but it fits. The stock spacers position the wheel so the sprocket and rotor line up very close to perfectly. The tire clears the swingarm by only 1/2" on each side and the chain barely clears the tire (it should, the wheel is completely stock KTM). You also have to slide in the caliper bracket after the wheel is in place. The front wheel fits too but I had to make a pair of ~1/2" spacers to center it in my RM125 forks. I think the fit would be about the same for the DRZ forks. The more difficult effort was to make a caliper offset bracket for the Brembo 310mm disc that came with the wheels. There are brackets for 320 discs on the DRZ but none that I have found for a 310. I have one question for those who know KTMs. Is the rear brake rotor bolt circle on the 625SMC the same as most of the other full size KTMs (eg. 520 EXC)? The wheel set didn't come with a rear disc and I want to get one of those Tusk SS discs from RockyMountainMC.
  6. Thanks Max, You have been very helpful. Unfortunately that means the DR650 hub at 150mm is too narrow for my project though the disk diameter matches my SV. Thanks again for the info. Russ
  7. Would one of you DR650 owners get a couple of dimensions off your rear wheel for me? I need to know the width between the brake rotor and the sprocket (inside to inside). I also need to know the rear brake rotor diameter. I'm messing with off-roading my SV650 and am looking into using a DR650 rear wheel with the cush drive hub. Thanks
  8. I agree with Stu35's comments. I ran an Edelbrock40 this past year and was pleased with its performance compared to the BSR36. It is a good carb for what it is, a pretty, well-built, single-circuit carb with externally adjustable needle height and an accelerator pump. I ran a 17-E needle to try to keep it from going silly rich at the top end. Really, the only "performance" feature is the accelerator pump. It was a reliable carb. That said, I recently installed an FCR39 that performs noticeably better throughout the entire range, even without perfect jetting.
  9. Sorry, I'd like to but with my limited equipment and machining skill, it's too much work for a freebie and would be too expensive to charge for the machining (It takes me a lot of time on my drill press and mini lathe).
  10. The timing of this post is perfect for me too. I just installed an FCR without a vacuum port. Has anyone had the Ron Ayers p/n 2GU-24500-02-00 part in their hands and verified that it has a main and reserve tube? I ask because the fiche are confusing. The WR400, 426, & 450 fiche all list the #2GU-24500-01-00 but show different pictures. Only the WR400 shows the long and short tube for that p/n and only the WR400 fiche says that the #2GU-24500-01-00 is superseded by the #2GU-24500-02-00.
  11. I ran a thread before Christmas about trying to install the wrong FCR on my DRZ. Well, it was a lot of work and thinking but I got it done with the great help from TT responses and previous TT threads. Yes, like it has been said before, "it ripps:ride: ." Here are a few pictures with narrative on the process: FCR from '05 YFZ450 Quad (Ebay $225 total) It was listed as FCR-MX 39 but I didn't know the difference. Notice the TPS assembly and the fixed airboot-side intake with no intake "bell". I removed the TPS assembly, retaining only the idle adjustment lever. I also cleaned out the mud and grit that had bound up the AP linkage (probably why the carb was on Ebay). The YFZ airboot has the intake bell molded into it to fit this carb so I had to make an intake bell. This is the part that makes the mod not "easy" for everone but maybe it can be done more easily using the YFZ450 air boot. Here it is installed. I had to make a manifold-to-carb coupler from a piece of 1.87"ID reinforced rubber hose (Gates-Vulco) to move the carb ~1/4" forward. This lets the cast cable guard clear the frame. I also drilled and filed a slot in the cable guard to install my stock throttle return cable. The airbell coupler is a piece of 2.0"ID Gates-Vulco radiator hose. Also in this picture, you can see how I adapted the TPS shaft and lever to make an idle adjustment. The remote choke cable is off a Keihin CVK carb I had. Also, the fuel inlet is rotated forward from where it was. The carb came with 170mj, JD red needle @5th from top, 42pj, 100paj & 90 starter(?) jet. I turned the fuel screw out to 2 and set the idle to ~.04" gap under the slide.The bike started right up and ran at about 80%. I was very pleased 'cause I thought the jetting would be way off. The power dropped off approaching top end so I put in a 160mj and move the needle clip to 4th from top. Also, the fuel screw had no effect so I followed some info from TT and removed the ACV diaphragm and spring, plugging the vacuum port and installing an o-ring in place of the diaphragm. Here's a pic with the cover off and my seals in place (sorry about the focus). The idle responds to the fuel screw now and the bike pulls hard all the way to the top. I was surprised to not have a lot of popping on deceleration since I disabled the ACV and reset the fuel screw. I'd say I have at least 90% of the carb's performance potential now. I may still drop to a 155mj since I have an FMF Q pipe. The JD red needle may not be the best fit for 1300' either but I don't have the blue one. Thanks very much to TT members for all the help and previous info posted. I learned a lot about the FCR in all my reading and tampering. It was fun but now I have to go for another ride before I change the rear tire. I spun all the knobbies off testing my new carb.
  12. I made it to attach to the carb with a rubber boot coupler (not made yet). The larger diameter end fits the stock S airboot. The setup will push the stock airboot joint back 1/4" from its relaxed position. I also need to add a couple of lineup pins to keep the air passages aligned. Need to order the recommended jets and needle too. Thanks for the input. Your posts made me understand the need for smooth airflow.
  13. How about one of these for smoothing the intake airflow?
  14. Thanks for the replies. I got helpful info from each one. Here are a few pics of what I am working with. Fit check complete carb with homemade short intake coupler: Short intake boot allows cast cable guard to clear frame: S model airboot doesn't reach carb intake bell, and larger diameter than bell: Airboot side of carb: TPS crap has to go. I'll make a new bracket for the left-side idle adjustment: It looks like I'll need to sleve the bell to extend it like Forewarned did. Thanks for the link to the pics harjp1959. Is the E model airboot about 1/2" longer than the S airboot and fit ~2.14"dia air bell?
  15. I bought the wrong "FCR-MX 39" off Ebay. . Quite a few TTers seem to make this same mistake but I don't want to pass my mistake on to someone else. I want to try to make it work. By the model #, it is from an '05 YFZ 450 ATV. I have fit checked a solution for keeping the cast cable guard from hitting the frame but my DRZ S airboot doesn't reach the carb intake bell (not removable). Would someone be so kind as to post pics from a few angles of the FCR-to-"S"-airboot adapter so I can see if it will fix my problem? Thanks,