RD73

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About RD73

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  1. At a minimum it sounds like your new carb's main jet is too big, which makes the fuel mixture too rich. A smaller main jet will lean out the mixture. What was the original main jet size? Did you go up in sizes from there or down? There may be additional problems with the jetting other than the main, but getting the main jet close first will enable you to diagnose other issues. If the bike is still stock, I would put the stock carb back on (with original jets), turn up the idle some, put fuel/air screw back to stock position (or about 2 turns out), check for air leaks, and tune from there. As you know, small changes can be made with the fuel/air screw. I would adjust it first, then try pilot changes. From the factory, Yamaha should be close on the jetting.
  2. I have the VRX4 and street helmet VSR. I purchased the Vemars after researching helmet safety standards, and think the ECE standard is the best in the business. Both helmets have excellent fit and finish, are comfortable, look great, and vent well. Also, the Vemar VSR was one of the top performing safety helmets in Motorcyclists magazine's test and article, "Blowing the lid off."
  3. Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery!
  4. Both above posts have great tips. Another suggestion is to grind the bolt so that it is flat, this will make it easier to lock vise grips onto. Then, hit the bolt a few times with a hammer, lock on vise grips and break it free. Kind of a combination of the above posts, but sometimes a chewed up bolt is difficult to lock vise grips on, so grinding it flat may help.
  5. I don't have any recommendations for classes, but you can rent the transponders.
  6. I would pick the Vemar, it is built to the European ECE standard rather than Snell. Actually, I have one of the VRX4s and they are excellent helmets.
  7. Try posting at http://www.r6-forum.com/ The R6 and R1 forums have good info.
  8. Which bolts were stuck? You can remove the cam by removing the clamps. Here is a good thread on the procedure http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179775
  9. The above recommendations regarding the axle and triple clamps will work. Loosen first, then slightly tighten two of the lower clamp bolts. Tighten the axle then push down hard on the bars and that will help align the forks. Then tighten everything else up. But, to answer your question, the best and most surefire way is to use the Motion Pro fork alignment tool http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0412
  10. These pictures of the Base valve and Mid-valve may help http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390319&page=9 I think you are describing the base valve assembly. You'll need to remove the damper rod from the inner cartridge to see the mid-valve. Look at this page for pictures of the mid-valve and base valve http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390319&page=4
  11. Check the busings for wear by looking at the color. They are coated and as the coating wears you can see it. Also, check your fork tubes for nicks or scratches, as this could damage the seals causing them to leak. If you can catch your finger nail on any scratch then it should be cleaned up. A dremel and fine bit will do the trick, not too much just enough to take the edge off.
  12. Install new springs for your weight then evaluate the valving. The stock valving is set up for track riding and, in my opinion, pretty good. Valving adjustments are for riding type (i.e. enduro, track, woods, etc.) and skill not weight.
  13. Looks loose to me. Should have around 1 1/2" of play. Are there signs of wear on your kick stand bolts and bracket? It appears that the chain may be hitting it.
  14. To have several hours on the bike the basket looks good, other than the broken finger. Usually the basket will show signs of notching, but yours looks good. I would be concerned about the clutch catching on the broken piece. If the clutch is engaging and disengaging properly I wouldn't worry about it (other than looking for and removing the broken piece).