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About MNMike

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  1. MNMike

    Might buy 2001 WR250F

    I really like my '01. I won it on eBay for less than trade in from a guy 20 miles away when everybody and their brother was trying to get over original retail for '80's enduros. Once you learn the drill auto decompression isn't an issue, and you can't clear a flood with auto decomp. I don't miss the e-start either. It lights up first kick warm or cold. I do have a Rekluse on it, though. Singletrack magic.
  2. MNMike

    2001 WR250 to 2008 WR250

    I've had an '01 for 5 years, and just got my wife an '08 because she wouldn't stay off mine. The only time I have a problem starting is if it has been laying on it's side for a while. It fires right up hot or cold. I rarely need to use the hot start. Check your valves. The '08 does feel a lot tighter than the '01, and the gas tank seems to be 'gone' in comparison. After sitting since Xmas, the '08 battery didn't have enough juice to run the starter, but it kick started right away. The '08 does seem to need the hot start more often. I'm not sure about the jetting on the '01, but it came with a ridiculously loud WB pipe (112db), so the stocker went right back on with the GYTR baffle. I'm sure the PO jetted it properly. The '08 has had all the mods done short of cutting up the airbox, using the GYTR kit. Once you get used to the routine of starting the '01, it becomes second nature. I do like having the decompression lever so I can clear the cylinder when it's flooded. Can't do that with auto-decomp unless you hold the kill switch. I also start the '01 when it's on the sidestand or I can get my left foot on a rock or ledge. Once I learned to start it properly, I can do it in flip flops without bruising my foot.
  3. MNMike

    2009 WR250F What to do

    I just installed the GYTR AIS kit on a 2008. It took me about 4 hours. I followed their instructions with a few exceptions: I did not remove the subframe, just the battery and subframe bolts. I was able to move the wires and coolant tubes enough to get the airbox off the carburetor without having to remove all the wires. I did remove the shock to access the carb, but did not disconnect the carb from the engine. All carb mods were possible with the carb in place. They do not tell you to remove the scoops and the fuel tank, but you have to in order to get at the AIS pump mounting bolts. Removing the tank also allowed me to change the needle without removing the carb. The float bowl dropped off and the leak and main jets were easy to replace. My carb had a remote external fuel screw adjuster. Is this now stock? The 'tamper' plug was also already gone. The AIS exhaust block off hose clamp never did tighten up enough to keep me from easily pulling the cap and gasket off. I kept easing it in, finally stripped the clamp. I'll be picking up another clamp for that one.
  4. My wife and I have BlueAnt Interphones. They work with your bluetooth cell phone, or you can set them up to work bike to bike up to about 150m. We picked up a pair of them on eBay for a reasonable amount. They are in our street helmets, but would probably work fine for dirt riding as well.
  5. If someone isn't smart enough to wear a helmet, then what's the point?
  6. I've been riding a KLR as my daily commuter for the last 4.5 years. I ride 22 miles one way. 6 miles of it is a dirt road option, which I almost always take. The last half is fast freeway, up to 85mph. The KLR does fine. Oil change is a 10 min operation, I can get a feeler on the valve shims in less than 1/2 hour. There is endless information and a wide variety of parts and accessories. I replaced the doohickey. Mine wasn't broken when I opened it up, but 3 others out of 7 KLRs at the 'Tech Day' I attended were. The best thing I ever did was put on a Givi 45l top case. It swallows up my notebook PC, lunch, and gym bag without a problem and locks them securely out of sight. It also keeps my helmet dry when parked in the rain. Handguards are a must for cold weather. A tank bag is nice, I have the expandable OEM one with a map holder, very convenient for going new places. I had a +9" windscreen, but the little more protection over the stock one wasn't worth the buffeting on my 6'1" head. The KLR is a pig in the sand, so for dirt only thrills, I turn to a WR-F, but it is a great commuter and handles dirt roads and most trails without any problem. With your plated XR, I'd take a closer look at a F800GS or an NT700V as a dedicated commuter, but you could buy 2 KLR's for those prices.
  7. MNMike

    Almost a victim of a scam!!

    I've had the same thing happen a few times. They ask me to take the item off craigslist because they are 'so serious' about buying. If they sound legit, have a reasonably good handle on grammar, and seem sincere, I just tell them to PayPal me immediately. Otherwise... I don't have the exact text of what I've written a few times, but it goes something like this: The price is now $10,000. You will bring the money in small, unmarked bills in a brown paper bag to the corner of x and y street in whatevertown. Tomorrow evening at x o-clock You must wear a chicken suit/dildo strapped to your head/speedos and a feather boa(insert your own ridiculous demands,)etc. The snipers will be watching you, so no sudden moves. Since I work in the internet security business I was able to reverse track your IP address to within a few houses. If you do not show up with the money, I will hunt you down and kill you. Have a nice day.
  8. They have a handful of different options. I have the basic Z-Start on my WR. The biggest advantage is that the bike does not stall. I have an '01, so no button. I also ride a lot of single track and technical stuff, and not having to clutch really helps prevent the arm pump and keeps you focused on what you're riding in/over/through. It just keeps going. They also sell frictions about comparable to what the OEM's cost. www.rekluse.com Search the forum. Lots of good discussion and info out there.
  9. If you're going to do the clutch, might as well throw a Rekluse in there at the same time. You won't regret it.
  10. MNMike

    Givi top plate

    midwest cycle supply www.midwestcycle.com (612) 825-9774 Web site is kind of screwy right now so call them
  11. I use a 2-man backpacking tent (one man and his gear), sleeping bag, and self-inflating pad. It all fits, with my clothes, in a 55l dry bag. I'm still shopping for a stove and cooking utensils. Get a tent with aluminum poles. Synthetic insulation in your sleeping bag doesn't pack as small as down, but still works when wet. Good places to shop: campmor.com, sportsmansguide.com
  12. MNMike

    hip replacement

    I had Birmingham Resurfacing done on Jan. 5, 2009, and was riding again at the end of April. I'm 47.
  13. I have both an R and an F in the garage, and they are both really tall. The Yamalink and the Black Mamba for the 'R' only bring it down an inch. With the factory adjustment, you're still looking at 34.7" for the R. I'd skip the WR's unless you've got the inseam for them.
  14. MNMike

    Grant Langston racing for Jlaw?

    Hey, Maybe J-Law will get some time off for good behavior. Never mind...
  15. MNMike

    Test-fitting Dual-sports

    You missed the KLR650, but you already know that. If you're doing your own wrenching, you'll appreciate a big name product with a big name factory service manual. You seem to want a low seat height, but didn't mention your height or inseam. Good points, the WRR has fuel injection. Gotta love it. It lights up without drama and runs like a top. The wave rotors work really, really good. Bad points - only ~100 miles to the reserve light with another 40 to go, but my KLR carries 38 lbs. of gas when full. I went from a 900 Ninja to a KLR650 in 2005 for commuting. I started my motorcycling life on an XT250 back in '83, had it for 2 years before going to a street bike, and missed having a dual sport for 20 years. My wife has a WR250R. We also have dirt bikes for dirt riding, so the Dual Sports are used primarily for commuting and dual sport rides. I ride 20 miles each way on my commute. I get about 7 miles of dirt every day, and the rest is mostly freeway at speeds up to 80mph. The KLR is my go to bike. It has a Givi 45l trunk that swallows my computer, lunch, gym bag, whatever I need to haul and provides locking security. It also keeps my helmet dry when I'm parked in the rain. I have progressive springs on both ends, I'm 6'1" #225. I have ridden the KLR on trails. It is heavy and doesn't do well in the sand. It's ready to go to work or on a long trip. I try to ride the WR250R as much as possible. The seat is harder than hell, but I just start to notice after 20 miles. The bike is really fun in the dirt compared to the KLR, and a lot more fun on the street as well. I have the compression and rebound jacked up to the max on both ends. It has a harsher street ride, but is a blast on trails. The extra weight(compared to a WR-F) is not a factor on anything but singletrack. I even put knobbies on for a week of camping/riding, and the bike was a blast. It even holds it's own on fast freeway riding, but doesn't have much left at speeds above 80mph. Based on your description of riding, I don't see anything wrong with a 250cc bike. You'll get better gas mileage and pay less insurance. You'll also be more nimble than a 400 on any surface. At top speeds of 55mph, any 250 will be fine. The upside down forks on the WRR and KLX are far better than any old school forks you'll find on all the other models. I was considering replacing the KLR650 with a WRR, but got one for my wife instead, so I can ride both. I can't speak for the KLX, but the WRR can be lowered almost an inch without affecting suspension. Black Mamba and Yamalink both make a lowering link that can get you down another inch in seat height. There is a bunch of stuff you can take off to reduce weight, and stuff you can put on to get more low end torque and top end performance. The WRR is way better than my old XT off road, and my '83 wasn't much different than the new XT's. I also threw a discount JCW topcase on the WRR Definitely go for the KLX over the XT. The WRR is better than the KLX but at a cost. You can find new, non-current WRR models for under $5000, and if you qualify, you can get 0-0-0 for 12 months. Stuff to do out of the crate: Must: Skid Plate, Hand Guards, Wind Deflectors Nice: cargo rack (PMB makes a great one) More agressive tires if you're really going off-roading. The Trailwings were a joke in the sand. I put some 952's on and the bike was transformed. I'm thinking 606's when the Bridgestones are dead. If I were you, I'd see how much I can get a WRR or KLX for and stick with one of them.