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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

dynamike

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About dynamike

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  1. 1. I wouldn't blip it before it's warmed up 2. My 12 has the same fluctuating idle when the cold start is out and so does a friend's 11 that I rode. I'm not comfortable letting it rev that high when it's cold, so here's what I do: After it fires up and just as it starts to rev up, I push the cold start in and rotate the idle speed knob out about four clicks while holding the throttle about 1/16 open. I let off the throttle and let it idle for a minute or so at that speed, then turn my idle speed knob back in four clicks and it's good to go. Just a little quirk on a great motocross bike.
  2. That would work for me too, mx317. That's 37 ounces and would get me close enough to full using my draining process, with or without filter change.
  3. If you tip and hold side to side you definately need more than 1.03 quarts to re-fill sufficiently, whether you change the filter or not. Again, the stated capacities for oil or oil and filter changes assume you are are following the draining instructions, and only draining the oil with bike perpendicular to the ground and without slowly kicking engine over to blow extra oil out. The 12 KX manual does not state kicking the bike through the stroke to remove more oil. If tipping, you're removing more and will need more. In my case, about 38 ounces and maybe 39 with filter change.
  4. It does, but it also assumes you're following the draining instructions which state positioning the motorcycle perpendicular to the ground to drain the oil. When you tip side to side you drain more used oil and therefore need to add more oil when re-filling. Changed mine again last night - oil only with no filter change. Warm motor, tipped side to side to drain as completly as poosible, added 38 ounces, ran it for a couple minutes at idle speed, shut down for a couple minutes and checked level, right in the middle of siteglass, left it overnight and this morning the level was right at top of siteglass.
  5. Sounds like a smart idea, Mikek671 - Thanks for the input!
  6. Seems good now. I disconnected some wiring connectors behind the left shroud and tried to blow the water out of them. When I reconnected them and started the bike the diagnostic light didn't come on.
  7. Washed bike and then when I started it up this light came on and stays on. Bike has over 20 hours on it and it's never happened before. Has anyone experienced it? It seems to be running fine. Could it be water in one of the electrical connections? Thanks!
  8. I think the confusion may be from the fact that the manual doesn't specify an amount for those of us that drain the oil more completely by tipping from side to side - they'd never be able to say how much extra we're draining. I get a surprisingly large quantity of additional oil out using this technique - I've never measured the extra from tipping, but should sometime. I end up putting in 38--40 ounces to get close to the top of the siteglass, which is where the manual tells me I should see it. I have never tried just draining on the sidestand or straight up and down without tipping. If I did that, the specified amount might be accurate. But after using the tipping method for draining, the specified re-fill amount would result in too little oil.
  9. Great decision- the 12 kx450 is an awesome machine! I really think the stock valving on this bike is good stuff - at least up through the local intermediate level. I'd spring it first and would suggest a 5.7 shock spring and .49 fork springs. A good starting point for the race sag is 105mm and fork height at second line (10mm up). Start with the stock clicker settings and adjust from there. Make sure you give the suspension at least 5 hours to break in before judging the valving. I have a set of Factory Connection .49 fork springs if you're interested.
  10. My manual doesn't explain how to correctly adjust the push pull throttle cables on my KX 450. I've adjusted free play by messing with both adjusters, but really want to know how each of the two cables should be adjusted. Would appreciate help from anyone that knows the correct procedure!
  11. My choice for my 10 was the Yosh slip-on. I also added the 94db insert which eliminated the spark arrestor. This setup gave me the added top end rev I was looking for without giving up any bottom end. Great sound and quality too.
  12. I have a buddy that runs the Ride link on his YZ 450 and it's the same as yours. Install it either way and enjoy. Also, try running your sag at 105-107 with that link, measured from the fender bolt to the axle. Then adjust fork height to your liking, from flush to 5 up. If you need more assurance, Adrian at Ride Engineering is very friendly and helpful. Great attitude - cool products!
  13. Sounds the same as mine from Suspension Direct-bolt goes through from right to left-shouldn't make any difference which way it's turned though. Also, my understanding is that Pro Circuit and Suspension Direct are 1.5 mm longer than stock and Ride's is a little longer than theirs for the YZ 450. I think Ride's drops the rear of the YZ 2-3mm farther than the others. Hope this helps.
  14. Thanks for the replies, but Yosh states 6-8 hour intervals in general on their website. I talked to them and was told this recommendation is even with the aluminum can and was mostly due to liability for product damage. All of my riding is either practicing for or racing motocross. My question is, has anyone with a Yosh muffler experienced a need for these abnormally frequent maintenance intervals to avoid muffler damage?
  15. Yoshimura recommends 6-8 hour intervals for muffler re-packing. They say they recommend this for warranty liability reasons. FMF on the other hand has no problem recommending 25-30 hour intervals, even with their Ti cannister. Can anyone that has owned Yosh products tell me if they really require such frequent re-packing to avoid muffler damage.