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About GP

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    TT Titanium Member

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    New Jersey
  1. "Second Hand 'my buddy's bike' information, not worth discussing" - The Kran [emoji23]
  2. Their GV application for the Sachs was wrong too. Had to call and talk to someone with some common sense to get the right #.
  3. I'm talking about lengthening the shock, not the preload. 4mm gets you 15 mm at the axel, with less preload required. Sounds like you might like it as it adds a hair of clearance too. FWIW, My '13 shock has more threads than the newer shocks, but neither have been a problem with the Cannon springs.
  4. That's the whole point, to improve the balance. While the shaft part#s may be the same, as you know it's not the only way to lengthen the shock. I simply shimmed the clevis. If Sachs had a lot of shafts on hand and Beta requested a longer shock, it would be a simple CNC change to the Beta clevis. A different top out plate is also an option. I actually designed one but never had it made as the shim method worked so well.
  5. Because with the shock lengthened your actually increasing travel, not preload, so you run a more conventional sag number for better compliance while the rear rides higher and biases the front properly. The stock Beta has approx 15mm less rear travel than other full size bikes with the same fork travel, this is just bringing it into a more normal balance. It works very well, best mod I have done. The '18s are taller in the rear now, longer shock I hear.
  6. No, Sachs has 16mm shaft with a shoulder/top out plate, 12mm spindle/tap. I looked at it and thought too much work to get it right. Not just simple boring, but a lot of tedious dremel work that doesn't look easy if at all possible. If I had prior experience and knew exactly the area I needed and if it were possible then yeah but to answer my basic question a plug and play piston is easiest. maybe later try to mod the stocker and use in a couple of Husky Sachs shocks I maintain.
  7. Its better and easier to raise the rear and run the fork lower in the clamp than all that machine work.
  8. Yes and no. The Sachs tap is 12mm, so like the #5043 GV, it would need a sleeve made.
  9. HaHa, the band availability is secondary but a plus. I'm simply interested in seeing if the Sachs piston is a limitation that I have gotten used to in certain conditions. After several conversations with people who have tried, with success, its worth a shot. So, its not a specific piston I'm after, just one to put more control via flow on the shim stack. A direction would be a good term.
  10. If I found a Showa valve I would be but no go on that either. No RSV on Beta Sachs. Another advantage to the GV (and KYB) is the bands are easy to get for service. I could not get a separate Sachs piston band. Going to be fun to see if a performance jump is possible.
  11. An AFR plot will tell the truth.
  12. Ha! Don't even remember where that came from. The foam tiles are great when standing at the bench for a long time though.
  13. Yep, and in fact if I could have found a 50mm KYB piston cheap I would have grabbed that to play with.
  14. Nice, you will like them. I just finished rebuilding mine completely with about 300 hrs on them. Upper anodizing still good, just some minor scuffs at the full extension position. My cartridge tubes just started to foul the inner chamber oil, so I had them hardcoated with all of my buddy's Zoke parts I sent to Steve. Fantastic job BTW. What I learned is do not ignore the rebound piston band. Measure it, even if it looks good (it will). Mine was well worn and I believe this is what took out the inner cartridge coating. I bought the KYB tool ($$) because I do my own work but have your tuner check/replace these at service time with the other consumables. Not a typical service item but as hours climb it should be. FWIW, the KYB bands go on the Zoke pistons perfectly, and the feel of a fresh parts and coatings in the cartridges alone is night and day. FWIW, the Zoke alloy comes out a dark gold color.
  15. Yeah it looks to have some condensate in it (coffee color). One of the worst things to do is run a bike in the cold and not get it up to temp.