GP

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About GP

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  1. Latest valving revision is great! The best its ever been for rocky stuff. I't sucks up rocky single track at my old man A pace amazingly well. The fork even works better, so balance is good. Still works great on 1st gear obstacles like popping over big logs or rock ledges and walls. I'm sure braking bumps will be fine, whoops ?? What seems to be the best formula is a stiff spring, lighter preload, and valving as light as possible. I'm sure the GV contributes but wouldn't be surprised if the stock piston could come close. I can fit the curves back to stock valve geometry and see what the stacks look like. Keeping the GV as piston band is easy to get, unlike Sachs.
  2. Its all part of an effort to refocus the bike to more technical terrain. For the last few years its been a compromise to race in all terrain and ride rocks, which its really too stiff for. Less racing this year, and none in the sand, so a different setup is in order.
  3. After my incident, a friend here got his upper lip ripped mostly off by a branch. It looked like a face full of chop meat. Its amazing the job the surgeon did, can't even tell. Did they stitch you up? Mine was left open to drain and heal inside out. I had packing completely through my leg that they pulled out while I sat in a burn unit tub, I invented new profanity !
  4. Wow, glad your OK. This stuff is not uncommon. I had the same thing happen a few years back, same size stick, but completely through my leg, so not as bad. Happens so fast you don't feel the pain, I didn't even fall. Same deal rode out to a dirt road and met an ambulance. I'm surprised your home so soon. I was in the hospital for a week on IV antibiotics as they feared infection. Now I get the creeps riding through areas with blowdowns and trash like that. Spent a day a couple weeks ago just clearing the local trail of such hazards. Heal up fast and good luck.
  5. I went too far with my latest rebound stack, overcompensated for the 1.2mm bleed hole I drilled and stiffer spring. Felt OK slow, trail clearing, but packed bad at anything higher. Guy behind me could see it and commented it was so bad. The restackor curve was a fairly radical change, I should have trusted it. It was ridable 17-19 out, but the initial bleed area was then too fast. The adjuster still makes a difference from 17 to 19, surprisingly, but I guess you need a stiff stack to tell. The bleed hole also contributes but very little, not as much as you think. This week I dropped the rebound way down, as well as a slight reduction in compression, as I will run the reb adj in more (less crosstalk bleed) as well as the stiffer spring. The comp adj mods are great, its so much more useful now. Looking forward to testing this Sunday.
  6. PFP wrench is easy. Cheap 22mm 12 pt box wrench cut down and ground thinner. I made a couple and carried one in my tool pack when I ran those forks.
  7. They are the same design forks. Yamaha has dibs on the SSS name, just a marketing slogan, all shim stack tuned suspension is speed sensitive. Actually all the KYB CC forks are the same with exception of lengths, lugs, spring perch(some plastic) and of course valving.
  8. Your right. What seems to happen from experience with the neighbor's XT is that oil gravity feeds through the pump when the bike sits, pooling in the crankcase, and then next startup is a mess. So much for a cleaner better system, we had to repack the silencer way too soon. A more sophisticated pump would solve this but be more $$ and this thing is designed on the cheap. We just pulled all that crap off and run premix now, along with different jetting bssed on an NECJ needle. The bike runs great, cleaner, and milage is way better, plus no chance of failure. He was constantly looking at the oil line worrying about bubbles, being pulled loose, etc. Much happier now.
  9. Yeah, no way the pitch can be that high. Beta Sachs seems to be about 1.25mm, I would think Ohlins is close. I've had four of the old platform GGs and they turned fine with 105mm sag. In fact they were the most forgiving motorcycle I've had with regard to rear setup. Your pretty light, what is your fork spring rate and preload?
  10. Yeah tank is smaller, forgot that one. The 14+ tanks go right on and add a little more. You can also jet the bike differently for better performance and milage. Forks work well but have wear issues and parts availability is tough. Besides that I still say gives up nothing especially at your level. I also agree with dirtbird, the original '13 300 had a great powerband, more free reving and slightly less bottom hit off idle. Then they changed to a "me too" porting design on the '14 race and up, more like the KTM. I made mine a 250 but still have the '13 300 parts as they are unique.
  11. Starter button wires, either near the button if the brake perch rotated and stressed them, or in my case simply broken inside the insulation from flex. The area behind the number plate where the wires flex as you move the bars.
  12. Buy the '13, you will have plenty of cash left to upgrade the forks if desired and give up nothing to the newer bike. They are more the same than different, why I still have mine.
  13. Exactly. Even on my '13 shock body I'm fairly close to the end with my Xtrig adjuster and 9mm preload. There is a lot of room up top in the other direction, silly.
  14. I would have never thought a 5.8 spring would work, but it does. Good numbers and good feel, just one more round of valving adjustments should do it. With regard to your aftermarket springs, 10mm longer would be a good thing as the newer shock body has shorter threads. The issue to me would be the dia. If its for a Yamaha thats a KYB shock, KYB springs work but rub the boot a bit. Even the stock spring is tight. I got a Cannon spring from Steve at After Hours, direct match to a Sachs spring.
  15. My 2010 CrewMax 5.7 just clocked 227K. No problems so far. My 2001 Tundra 4.7 ran flawless when sold @ 238K. Would love a Tacoma with the 4.6.