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  1. Yep, had the carby fully apart and cleaned, the dyno guy said fuel/air was spot on. I've advanced and retarded the cam timing one tooth either way with no fix. Talking to a sprint car motor guy today he thought maybe the stator was on its way out, only getting a weak spark at idle. Anyone know how to check it??
  2. Hey guys Im at wits end with my X, I installed an aftermarket ignition and an 07 R cam into it and it started playing up at a low idle. It sounds like its backfiring through the carb and snuffs out. If I wind up the idle it just sounds like a miss but there is enough inertia in the motor to stop it stalling. I've had it on a dyno and the fuelling is fine, Ive replaced the decomp pin and shaft, the plug cap, the coil assy and the regulator rectifier. None of these fixed it, Ive just pulled out the r cam and put original back in and put the standard ignition back in and the bloody thing is still doing it. I'm running a rekluse so I cant just idle it up. Any ideas on what it could be??
  3. Thanks boys
  4. Sorry if this has been answered, i did a search and got tired of reading. Which are the better stainless intakes out of kibblewhite and faction ??. And can you run the standard springs or do you need the spring kit aswell?? Thanks Guys
  5. OK the hesitation is gone, took it to the dyno guy and he couldn't get the sniffer through the Q4 so told me to try the leak as above, he put a 50 in and it was still there. To save all the stuffing around changing them I got an R&D pump cover with the ALJ. Set it for 50 still bogged, in a 1/4 to 40 still bogged, in another 1/4 for 30 and just like magic it was gone. Ended up with the NCYS needle in 3rd, 45PJ, 160MJ 1.5 on FS.
  6. My lights have just gone out. We have a different harness for rego over here, but the problem is in the original one the same as you guys. Basically our light harness runs through a relay which is switched by the grey wire coming out of the ICM which runs the taillight on your bikes. There is no power at this wire with the engine running. There are 2 wires on the diagram for GND. the G/Bl (IGN GND) which is continuous to the neg of battery and the G/W (SIGNAL GND) which isnt. Should this wire be grounded or have you guys got any idea what to check.
  7. Nice post man, but as I said mine is an 08 and has a totally different set up. The screw goes from the opposite side, adjust from the rear, and does not leave the arm no matter how quick or often you twist the throttle. I don't think it is the AP becasue it ran fine with a Ti4 on it and only plays up since fitting the Q4. Ahh well off to the dyno tomorrow to see.
  8. OK, I thought the 08's don't need the oring, the arm and plunger dont seem to seperate like my 05 KTM did. What should the AP be, it is squirting for 1sec which I though was good. The leak is a 70. It starts and idles fine, it will start without choke now which it wouldn't before. I hate jetting
  9. Just put a Q4 on after having a Ti4 to meet noise restrictions. Come into a corner 0 throttle and crack throttle on exit it has a hesitation similar to a 2T before band. Didn't do it with the Ti4. It has stage 1 hotcam, airbox and screen done, pink wire, HC piston Running with Ti4 was NKKT 4th, 42P, 155MJ, FS 2, 70 LJ Tried so far,, NKKT 4th, 3rd, 2nd clips, 42P, FS 1-3, 155-165MJ NCYS 4,3,2, 42P, FS 1-3, 155-165 MJ NCYQ 4, 42P, FS 1-3, 165MJ. Squirt is 1 sec. As you can guess I've had a gutfull of changing jets and needles , I ride mainly 0-1000ft. Any suggestions before I put the Q4 through the drop saw:smirk:
  10. I want to stay in class for racing at this stage, been looking on ebay for a head for awhile now.
  11. Ha Ha just picking on the other guy who suggested the reeds mate. Its the same asyou guys out here 4stroke no reeds
  12. Thanks Guys, already have Vforce reeds, piston and rings 25hrs. Looks like I'll just have to put up with it. Didn't want to change gearing, I like the top end speed now.
  13. Hi Guys, I've got an 08 250X, was running a Ti4 and was more than happy with the power. Our enduro racing has just dropped the Db limit to 94 so the Ti4 had to go and I got an FMF Q4. With the more restricted pipe I'm not happy with the power anymore. I used to be able to run 2nd easily through single and still had nice power to crack out of the corners. Now 2nd will lag and need clutching etc or first is revving its nut off. I weigh about 240lbs so every bit helps. Mods so far, stage 2 hotcam, high comp piston, pink wire, ncys needle, airbox cut, screen removed. I have an X cam, stage 1 cam and either X or pro circuit header to use. So how can I get her to sing better, was thinking either head work or R head, adjustable ignition (we have vortex in Oz). Any thoughts or comments??