Adam Reif

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About Adam Reif

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    TT Newbie

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    California
  1. Are these busted/bad but useable cores, or are these high-output rewound stators? I'm guessing that the cost of having Baja Designs rewind them is cheaper than a stock OEM '08 stator ... can someone comment or confirm? Thanks, Adam.
  2. soooo .... does that mean that you have a Baja Designs stator that you need to convert into beer money? Adam.
  3. Can someone explain what the Good/Bad/Ugly is about AC vs. DC on these bikes? When you convert to full DC, what exactly are you giving up? Is it just that it's more efficient to "create" AC vs. DC? I'd like to understand - and this issue has ALWAYS befuddeled me! Thanks in advance!
  4. There was a Twin-Air on my used 2006 TE510 when I bought it - apparently that is stock, based on comments here. I had bought a new UNI filter, and with great difficulty was able to finally get it installed - not very fun at all! However, I noticed a difference when riding at a steady state low-load RPMs on the street - the engine would burbel/hiccuup/miss every 20 seconds or so. I switched back to the Twin-Air and things went back to normal - smooth running engine. I am using NoToil on the Twin-Air filter (the Uni too, when I tried it).
  5. Yes - if the engine is running, then the clock is ticking. For me, it's more about hours run, than miles run.
  6. Uh oh - just read this on the group's sticky: "note that the feeler gauge should go between the lift arm and top of valve, and NOT the cam shaft/lift arm" Looks like I measured the wrong gap. You'd think that you would get the same measurement - but apparently there is a difference or it would not have been noted. I'll re-update my instruction sheet, in a little bit - which will then be at v3.
  7. You're welcome - thanks for the heads-up on my SNAFU in the procedures list ... I've de-confused that and re-posted the file. Also, I did the procedure myownself today, and would add that at first I thought that my intake lash was REALLY small - but then did it again, being more careful. I had much better luck sliding the feeler gauge in from the side of the cam vs. my initial approach, stuffing the feeler inline with the cam. Everything was in spec after all. Also ... after I'd done the measurements, I rotated the motor ONCE to get the two dots on the intermediate shaft to line up again, and did the measurement again. I dunno, it just made me happier to re-verify it all! Still a little confused about my intitial measuring problems, I went back and used my Mitutoyo micrometer and measured my feeler gauges and found that the tips were *slightly* burred which was causing the problem, as they were typically .001" thicker there. Doesn't sound like a lot, but at .005, it's a 20% jump to .006" - so that issue plus being in a rush had me thinking the intake gap was less than .002" when it wasn't. So the lesson is to take your time - or at least know all the tricks in advance When you took posession of your SMR ... you were not given a User Manual in fourteen languages?
  8. I just finished researching this same subject, and after reading half-a-dozen threads, I compiled all the wisdom into one document for myself ... but why should I be selfish? I'm assuming that the valve-gear in the '08 is similar to the '07 (you said the dealer suggested it was so) and further Im assuming that the SMR and TE valve-gear is similar, if not exactly the same, as I have an '06 TE510. You can grab the doc I made (1Mb) here: http://www.designmassif.com/misc/TE450-510_Valve_Adjustment.pdf Good luck, Adam.
  9. From the photos I've seen of the '08 motor, it appears the same as previous non-injected models. Look on the left side of the motor, below the stator cover. One alum cover with two 8mm head bolts. If you already put new oil in, then lay the bike over on it's right side. If the oil is out, then there will be some residual oil that will come out - just so you know. The cover you remove has on O-ring on it, and I use my pinky to reach in and pull out the simple-rolled screen that is in there. Towards the front of the motor, next to the alum cover we're talking about, is a 6mm recessed-hex bolt. Remove that bolt, and there is a small o-ring and then a fancy screen, which you may need to be creative with to pull it out. NOTE the orientation of how it comes out! On reassembly, there is a step inside the motor when you put it back that it needs to get into properly. Then get the O-ring in there ... which I always get nervous about it getting crushed in there, but if you are careful you can convince yourself its okay. Maybe a little dab of grease wil help it stick where you want it. I check it every other oil change - it's not that hard, however I think the manual states it doesn't need to be done that often. Good luck, Adam.