Stevie305

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About Stevie305

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Golf, trail riding,
  1. Great pics! If that is a lake you are riding on......... That would scare the beJesus out of me!
  2. Thanks Splice. You the man! Have a fun trip to Glamis, and be safe!
  3. From XGX website: Remove all dirt, oil, and grease with soapy water. Once they're clean, do not touch mounting surface, the oils in your hands will affect adhesion. This is the most important step in successful graphic application. If you are applying to new plastic or paint, lightly scuff application surface with fine steel wool or scratch pad. · We recommend spraying or wiping a soapy water/alcohol solution onto the plastic to allow the graphics to slide around before final placement. Some types of Window Cleaner will work as well. · Align graphic with any interior holes, this is usually easier and more precise than using the perimeter. · Lay plastic down on flat surface. · Lightly place the graphic on the plastic. Do not push down on graphic until alignment is finalized. Do not try to slide graphic to proper alignment. We use a pressure sensitive adhesive, which allows for peeling and replacing if pressure is not used. M Once you are happy with the alignment, begin applying pressure to graphic beginning at the center and moving outward to the edges, pressing out fluid and being careful to press out any bubbles. We suggest using the backing paper between the graphic and applicator to avoid "digging in" to the vinyl. Be sure to apply ample pressure especially at the edges. Allow graphics to sit for 24 hrs. prior to riding. We also advise re-applying pressure to the graphics after a couple of hours, especially if using an application fluid to ensure complete bonding. If you encounter bubbles that cannot be rubbed out, take a sewing needle and prick the bubbled vinyl a number of times and reapply pressure. This allows the air to escape and the graphic to contact the plastic. If you are having trouble getting the graphics to stick on to the plastics, try using a heat gun or blow dryer. Make sure you don’t get it too hot, or it may melt the graphics. This is just helpful to let the liquid underneath evaporate to allow the graphics to ahere to the plastics and conform around the edges.
  4. Now THAT'S what I'm talking about!
  5. Well said............and I agree. I wonder if those guys answer their kids/friends/wife/father/mother like that? The only foolish question.......is the one that you didn't ask.
  6. I just went out in the shop and looked at mine. There is a clamp that holds the header pipe to the silencer. It is directly under the snorkel on the carb. It "looks" like it may be spotwelded also. Just by looking, it appears that you may have to take the side covers off, and do some twisting to get it out. Take your time, think it over, and put that 14-yr-old brain to work. You can get it done! Just don't get frustrated or angry. It obviously went in there, so it WILL come out. Unbolt it everywhere, and try to turn it as you pull it out. Upon just looking, it appears that the whole thing should come out in one piece. Sorry I can't be of more help. Hang in there! I admire your initiative! You can do it!!
  7. It varies depending on the brand. I would use the search feature and search for the brand that you are looking at, i.e. Alpinestars, Sidi, etc. I have Alpinestars, and mine seem to be true to size.
  8. I posted this in the 50s forums, and didn't get any response..... Have you had any dealings with this company? I am looking at buying a rear hand brake conversion from them for my son's 70. Any thoughts?? Here's the link to their site & the part: http://www.50stunt.com/stunt_rear_brake_kit.htm
  9. Sounds kinda lame, I suppose, but the best thing that I can tell you is to take your time, and be sure you have them straight before you stick them down. A little alcohol in a spray bottle, and sprayed on the plastic before you start will allow you to slide the vinyl around a little bit before it sticks, giving you the chance to correct a mistake. It also helps you get the bubbles out. Mine have ZERO bubbles.
  10. ONE QUESTION SPLICE....................... Is it any easier to start and warm up???
  11. NICE CALL!! I hadn't noticed that the 100 fender is longer in the back. THANKS!!! It really does look better than the 150 fender, huh? Need to do that soon.
  12. Anybody ever had any dealings with these folks? I am thinking about ordering a rear handbrake conversion kit from them. Input appreciated!
  13. Not trying to be a smarta$$$, but man......you get what you pay for. Especially something with an engine! I would do a google search for a possible forum for those bikes and hope to find some info there. Might take a few hours of research until you find somebody who has found a cure. If I were going to buy a "Pep Boys" or other similar bike, I would have to hear it run and test ride it in the parking lot before I took it home. Good luck in your quest for info.
  14. My new graphics.....I Know, I Know....It's still a itty bitty 150....