Jump to content

1BLUEsky

Members
  • Content Count

    457
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 1BLUEsky

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    California
  1. 1BLUEsky

    08 KTM 200 Pipe & Carb Test

    It's not bad ! A friend who had a 200 said its just like the "Fatty" which coincides with an old article written by a KTM World employee who prepared a 200 for GNCC racing. The main difference I " felt" and I think was shown by the times was that the stock let the bike stretch its legs a bit , where as the Gnarly caused a need to shift a bit sooner. If I were to try anything in the future I may try the stock pipe with some different gearing. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I'm thinking 14/50 or maybe a 13/49
  2. 1BLUEsky

    08 KTM 200 Pipe & Carb Test

    In case anyone's interested I thought I'd post the results of a few tests I ran about a month ago. I figured I'd test rather than just take peoples word for what they liked/felt so hopefully the actual numbers I recorded help. I did this test by placing cones out at 30,60,160 and 300 ft on about a 2% incline with my son running a stop watch. I did three runs for each distance before moving on to the next furthest. The terrain was hard pack with a thin layer of loose dirt and scattered round rocks of various sizes common to the West Coast. The temps that day ranged from 74-77 degrees with 22-24% humidity and conditions continued to be dry and sunny. The bike had a fresh motor,Boysen Rad Valve, and spun a slightly used 18" Maxxis SI with 14/48 gearing. I am a 47yr old B rider weighing about 175 without gear. The parts I tested were the stock carb w/ 165 main, 85, 45 pilot(air screw out 1 1/2) and a Lectron Legacy carb as well. I also ran each of these with pipes in great condition, a 11' Gnarly and a stock pipe. Note: The 11' & up FMF pipes have a larger(2 mm?) diameter so require an equivalent silencer! I ride mainly in the woods and like to play on tighter MX tracks so low end is helpful given the cc's. I returned to the Gnarly and richened the Lectron just a bit as the power is very linear and fuel economy can't be beat. An allen key to remove the top cap is all that's really needed for tuning, but any bike with a big tank's gonna make this a bit of a PITA. I hope this helps anyone who's on the fence about parts or curious. The Lectron' s expensive and I went with it because of the tuning ease and the fact it's made with the same features you have to pay the same amount or more for to have incorporated into a stock carb. On long rides the fuel usage helps too, but if you're on a budget the stock carb does pretty damn good! Have fun out there!!
  3. Bummer, I don't think it goes down into the crank area, but is going to be down in the centrifugal mechanism that makes that arm move. I'd go on KTM World or something like that and look at a parts fisch/schematic. You might luck out and be able to get a small magnet down in there.
  4. 1BLUEsky

    yz250 to much for a beginner

    As a few others have said , YES a YZ250 is way to much bike for a beginner especially one who hasn't mastered a clutch. I had an 05 that I gradually transformed into a woods bike and an 02 used at the track so I know what I'm talking about. With an open area for practice and a flywheel weight MIGHT be possible but I'd recommend a woods modified 125 at the most. I know they're heavier, blahblahblah, but an air cooled trail bike like a CRFor TTR will be cheap and reliable with less likely hospital bills to the rider and his parents.
  5. Hello to anyone reading this! I'm two months away from 46. I started riding at about 33 and now race hare scrambles very well in my age class in C. This keeps me highly motivated to improve my skills every time I ride as well as watch my fitness and lifestyle. I have been injured at times, but would be lost to some degree without riding. My advice is get a bike suited to the type of riding you want to do and get out there. If you don't feel like doing some particular challenge, don't , until you build up the skills and confidence to try it. Best wishes to anyone considering this sport!
  6. 1BLUEsky

    If you own a 2 stroke,please reply once.

    00' KX 80,01 65 SX, 02 YZ 250
  7. 1BLUEsky

    2001 yz 250 issues

    Glad to hear you got the bike running!As for the shifting it sounds like a bent shift fork .
  8. 1BLUEsky

    250 2 stroke?- Yz 250 vs KTM 250

    I've had both brands and either will make a great woods bike but the KTM won't need as many mods and the ones I've had or seen are generally easier to work on when it comes to chassis maintanance /field service. Some say a "steel" frame works best off road so a 97-04 YZ might be cheaper to purchase or may already have some mods done and many later YZ parts fit as well.There's also the KTM 200, but I'd look for newer models .I haven't ridden one but I'd like to as I know people who love the performance in the woods. One more thing is what is going to be the easiest to get parts for?Good luck and have fun no matter what you get!
  9. Dot 4 has a higher boiling point.Brake bleeding can be a pain so Just keep trying.If you do it in the evening turn the bars so the master cylinder is at its highest point and gently tap the brake line with a blunt tool.Let it sit overnight then check it again.Unless you have a loose fitting,obvious leak or a not so obvious bent rotor it should firm up.
  10. 1BLUEsky

    Should i buy the bike?

    The 06 and newer bikes have better suspension but aren't dramatically different from the 01'. Some people feel steel framed bikes are better on the trail or on rough tracks so as already said , it depends on what you're gonna do.I'd offer $500 for it then put another $1500 into the motor and some hop-up parts and still be below what you're gonna pay for a newer bike before any work.
  11. 1BLUEsky

    sharpening footpegs

    I use a small file that has three sides/working surfaces that does the job well.Might take some elbow grease the first time but it's easy to touch up and IS worth the effort.As for tearing your pants or cutting your calf I've never seen, hear of or had it happen .Boots and shin/knee guards should stop that!
  12. 1BLUEsky

    How do i remove fork dust seals?

    I think I can help here although I have a KTM it should be the same idea.On my KTM it has a strong plastic ring that mimics the semi circle metal ring that resides in the grove just above your seals .In order to drop the seals I have to pry the ring out of that grove on the fork body so you'll essentially need to do the same thing. It's strange , but the tension holding them there really isn't that much but until you relieve it they won't budge.
  13. I fractured my tibial platue right where the ACL attatches and was out of commission for 3 months.I drank milk and took a little calcium through pills and the doctor told me I had healed nearly a month quicker at age 36 than if I hadn't, and because I didn't smoke. I also had pain build up in my calf and it was because of a clot(DVT) which is nothing to joke about if it breaks loose and plugs blood flow to your heart or brain. I was told i should maintain an Aspirin regimen because clots can form more easily but I don't and just stay in good shape.You'll be fine in no time, just don't force things!
  14. 1BLUEsky

    Improving the Knobby Knife!

    X 2. Good tool. I get about 2 good recuts and could probably get a third if I used it before the knobs get too rounded.
  15. 1BLUEsky

    Help appreciated! Replacement handlebars

    Handlebar selection is pretty personal but I think alot of it has to do with how tall you are and what type of riding you do as well as your riding style. Wide bars give you leverage , but are obviously harder to get through narrow trees especially when you widen the ends with wrap around handguards. Too much sweep and your wrists or shoulders will suffer. I suspect if your back is hurting you need a taller bar and/or need to move your bars on the triple clamp. If/when you ride standing with your knees bent(attack position) your head should be over the bar enough to see a bit of your number plate if you look down.In this postion your arm width should be about where they'd be if doing a push up(wide stance) with your elbows bent. . When looking at the bars from the side where they mount in the triple clamp they should be nearly in line with the angle of the fork, not rotated too forward or backward to much as this transfers more hack to you. The CR HI or Woods Highbend has worked well for me and I'm a fairly agressive 6' rider on a 450EXC.I ride all types of trail and outdoor MX.Hope this helps.Don't below $60 for new bars, Fly brand is supposedly made by Renthal , but I would be skeptical of anything cheaper.Pro Taper is usually my choice.
×