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About newtodirt

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  1. newtodirt

    Jetting D-Base for YZ/WR 250F

    I am not familiar with what level of performance to expect from my bike (being a newbie), but in cleaning the carb of my 2003 WR250 I noticed the following settings from the previous owner who was also riding in Houston but had not done any of the free mods. Model (YZ or WR 250F): 2003 WR250F Timing (WR-YZ): YZ (I disconnected the grey wire) Main jet: 195 Pilot Jet: 50 Fuel screw (turns out): 2 Needle model/Clip position: Stock (OBDVS) at 4th clip position Airbox lid (on or off): I removed snorkle Pipe: Pro-circuit slip-on Altitude where you ride: Houston, TX, sea level Temperature where you ride: HOT Throttle stop: I put the YZ one in. It seems a lot richer than what I see on this thread. Everything is stock except the main and pilot jets, which are almost the richest available. Does this make sense? I am tempted to buy the stock jets and experiment, but before I do I would be interested to hear any thoughts from you guys. (A while back when I changed the spark plug it did not look black.)
  2. newtodirt

    how to get cam chain off crankshaft sprocket

    Thanks ... I managed to pull the exhaust slider forward a bit, got the chain off behind the sprocket, then twisted the chain to push the slider back a bit and then it came out. This may not be the way but it came out The slider stayed put so the new chain was easy to fit on and then a squeezed the slider onto the chain. Tomorrow will be the fiddling part of getting the timing set on the cams.
  3. Doing the cam chain replacement for the first time ... removed the cam caps, the exhaust cam shaft is off (valves need shimming), fly wheel is off and the intake side guide is unbolted to the side but I cannot get the chain of the crankshaft sprocket. The exhaust side guide is preventing the chain to come off. How do you remove the chain? I also bought new guides thinking I could replacement while I am at. Can I replace the guides with only the bottom and top opened up? TIA!
  4. I am in the process of servicing the rear suspension of my 03 wr250, I have only had it a year but suspect it has not been serviced properly ... string cheese is still there and not much grease anywhere. With the help of the material on this forum things are going okay (I think!) but I have some queries ... - I don't plan to remove the dust seals, they all look in good shape, will just clean them and the insides of the linkages. Ideally I would like to take everything out, clean etc but I could damage the dust seals and it is probably OTT cleaning. - The bolt for the relay arm (the one in the swingarm itself) is tough to get out, before I hammer away with a bigger hammer, is there something I have overlooked? - The bearing assembly / package for the main swingarm linkage to the frame does not have the same arrangements of pins and cheese what should I do there, just clean out and grease? Thanks in advance!
  5. newtodirt

    WR250F sealed battery or not?

    I killed my battery by leaving the ignition on and decided to experiment with a 1.2 ah SLA battery for $10 before getting a full spec replacement. So far it has always been able to turnover the motor whenever I needed to. As a beginner I have my fair share of hot starting! I tend to kick start whenever I can and if it is awkward / or I am tired I use the button. Nor I have I had to top up the battery with a charger in between rides. At $10 it is worth trying to see if it works for your riding requirements.
  6. newtodirt

    MSR Plug wrench

    I got my WR without any tools so I thought I'd order a plug wrench online. I went for the MSR wrench from the rockymountain catalog, the picture had one deep socket type and one flat type. I selected the "water cooled" option thinking it would be the deep socket one but received the flat type?? Am I missing something here? Best go to the dealership and get the OEM wrench ...
  7. newtodirt

    Shimmed valves ... whats next?

    Thanks for the info, so I have some life left before having to replace the valves I did an hour of searching and surfing the forum and there is lots of great info out there on the subject. Here's a quick summary of what I gathered that maybe useful quick read for others, more specifics and detail you would need to do the search. Note I am not experienced / knowledgeable in this area and am just describing the advice & points mentioned by others on this forum ... OEM shims from Yamaha go in 0.05 mm increments but CR250F shims are the same and Honda has them in 0.02 mm increments. That should help when working within the 10% from new allowance. When the time comes for a valve replacement you need to take the head off, four bolts, remember the right and left side are different lenghts, middle intake valve is different to outer valves. Best to replace all five valves, springs, cotter retainer, seals. They are not too expensive individually (I have not added it all up though). The Yamaha is very reliable in this area so doing the full job buys you lots more riding before having to do anything again. Similarly the OEM parts are good so no real need for anything different when replacing the parts. Another aspect of the Yamaha design is that there is little wear on the valve guides. So unless you have broken a valve or have markings or uneven valve stems it is very unlikely you need the guides replaced. Whilst replacing the valve train parts is straightforward (except the valve guide) it is best to have a professional check the head and re-face the seats with the new valves. The head with new parts can be sent out to specialist who can do this for you, $200-250. Your local dealer also sends out, so they can advise the place they use. Whilst the head is off there is the opportunity to do other maintainenace. Check the piston, replace the rings, look at the bore etc. With a little more effort it is worth replacing the cam timing chain. This will require the removal of the stator and flywheel. The lower cam sprocket is known to wear, whilst the replacement cost of the left part of the crank (sprocket and left crank are one piece) is not too expensive it is a fairly big job. So it is good to change the timing chain on a regular basis. Flywheel puller for WR is not a common tool (i.e. not the one that works on most bikes) because of making "space" for the starter arrangements. But it is not an expensive tool. You can also consider changing to YZ timing of the cams if you prefer. What a great forum! It is comforting to know I have more ride time before embarking on this but also now doing the topend maintenance seems less daunting!
  8. I purchased a 2003 wrf250 this year, no maintenance record. Before I started riding I checked the valve clearances and they were all within spec, though one intake was just at the limit of 0.10mm. I have done some 20hrs of light riding (i.e. not racing or high rpm) and now find that all three of the intakes valves needed adjusting. One of the shims were 1.88 so I presume this bike is has the original factory shims, others were 1.90 and 1.85. I have shimmed the valves to within spec now. So after that long intro, my question is what should I expect next? What maintenance / top end work would be needed? I plan to check the valves again in 10hrs and if they are out of spec I read in one of the posts that I should not continue shimming ... I am not sure what is the next step involves? Is it easy for me to do? I can following instructions and replace parts but not machine or reface anything.
  9. newtodirt

    What's a good price for a 2006 YZ250F

    Thanks for the market info, the price did seem more like a 2007 new bike but they had also no yz250f's left in the showroom and the LE was the last one at another branch. But I would expect a big discount like you guys are suggesting for a last year's model bike.
  10. What would be a good price for a 2006 yellow anniversary edition YZ250F this time of year? Also, is the difference between the 07 and 06 big enough to go for the 07? (I am not very experienced, so I am guess I won't notice the difference.)
  11. newtodirt

    Cornering - how to?

    I just started dirt riding this year and took a lesson from a instructor at my local track. I had similar issues with cornering but one of the best tips that help me improve my corner speed was to keep a little bit of front brake on all the way to the middle of the corner. This improved the handling of the bike but also gave me the confidence to come in hotter to the corner still on the front brake, knowing I could apply more braking if I needed to. When the brake is already applied, giving a little more does not upset the bike too much. So key to smooth speed is: have the momentum of the bike carry you through the corner, keep the front brake on for the first half / apex, then get on the power. I was over braking, then going around the corner with throttle moderating. The bike was poing backwards and forwards. This approach to cornering made a big difference for me.
  12. newtodirt

    Question on Scotts filter

    I should have guessed, its been discussed several times already. Should have done the search before asking! All is good with the filter. The explanations I have seen are: - there is no need for a seal on the inside since the important seal is the one on the cover, i.e. making sure the oil from the outside of the filter does not get into the centre where the clean oil returns to the engine - the OEM has the second seal as a "spring" to ensure the seal at the cover side is always fully seated. - Scotts does not need this because it is slightly longer, better manufacturing tolerances. I did notice that the Scotts filter was a nice snug fit, more than I can remember of my last OEM replacement. So it all makes sense. As an aside, it is curious that the OEM is spending the effort to have two rings ... both the OEM and Scotts use rubber for the spring effect. One post mentioned manufacturing tolerances, I wonder though whether it is that the paper filter is less structurally rigid than the Scotts and hence with time is more suspectible to move. Already spending too much thinking about a $60 proven solution!
  13. Just want to check something ... installed a Scotts oil filter all seems okay in terms of fit, but I am a bit concerned that the Scotts filter does not have a rubber seal on the inner face of the filter unlike the paper OEM filter which as rubber on both faces. I have a 2003 WRF250.
  14. Thanks, yep thats the next route ... its just that I read somewhere it was as easy as putting the YZ spacers on which was the cheaper alternative.
  15. I got my '03 WR250 without a trip meter so I wanted to remove the hub on the front wheel. I thought I could just go with a YZ spacer (5NY-25186-00-00) and oil seal but it looks like there is more to it ... any experiences / suggestions? The oil seal is ends up being exposed plus there is still the assembly with the two tabs for driving the cable.