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About mopedoutlaw

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    TT Newbie

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  1. Read my post above, you are wrong. I ordered CFC-I have the order saved-and got TT. What do you know that we don't? PolarIce knows what he is talking about, do you?
  2. Then, why did I order CFC case guards and wait forever to get them, so that you could work out the logistics of the manufacturing of TT ones? I couldn't care less what is on the side, and I would hate to think that I waited forever so that TT could be sure to sell me some of theirs instead of the CFC ones. I love TT, but this kind of makes me mad. Hell, I could of had my family's metal shop make these in a day. I thought they were in stock and ready to ship when I ordered. You only find out that they are backordered after you pay.
  3. Yeah, they do all right when its wet tarmac were talking about. I guess ill have to decide where I want to compromise. Thanks
  4. Where i live it rains alot in the winter, almost every day. I want to run knobbies but do a fair amount of street riding on wet pavement. Can anyone tell me of a good 60/40 dirt/street tire that is good when it is wet? I am considering tck-80s, eb's and just about everything else. I have ridden more on wet pavement than dry since I bought my brand new drz a month ago. Thanks for all the help with everything. This is my first bike and it has ripped from the start becuase I have had good help with jetting and every thing else on tt.
  5. Cool, let me know if you notice any difference. I am going to do it in the loop. Have a good one.
  6. I thought about it too, because yeah, the carb port is essentially "open" and breathing through the canister. It seems logical to keep this in the same state. Why not just connect the tanks vent to the carb port in a smaller loop and without the canister? Any ideas?
  7. Yeah, I know, but I did a search and some people claim that leaving it open with a breather element is better for throttle response, though I am no sure that there is any logic behind it at all. That's why I asked. Thanks
  8. I just removed my silly CA canister and tubes. I plugged the hole on the carb fitting, and cut the tube that vents from the tank and mounted it down by the swingarm. But, here are my questions: Why do some people leave the carb vacuum open with a breather filter? Is this in any way different than just capping it as far as performance goes? What about the valve thing that L's from the tank vent hose and then connects to the tube that runs to the former canister? Can I remove this? I just ran the breather after this junction. Thanks
  9. thanks again. I would say that you deserve some kind of motorcycle related humanitarian award.
  10. So, I have managed to make some sense of my jetting situation on my drz400s after burned patiently answered my left-field contributions. I have the 3x3 mod, live at sea level and the temps are 40-75 yearly, and I have the dynojet kit. This is what I am going to run: 25 pilot, 140 main, fourth clip, about 3 turns screw. How should I change this when I get the Yosh RS3 slip on? Do I bump up both the main and pilot?
  11. thanks again:)
  12. exactly what I was looking for, thanks. I now at least have some idea of how little the clip position affects the main and pilot.
  13. so if I turn it counterclockwise, it will make the main more lean?
  14. the needle position affects the amount of fuel allowed into the mixture from a certain throttle position all the way through the top end, correct? Since the dynojet needle is smaller, a person would lower the main jet from, for example, the stock 142.5 to a 140 and actually be running richer in the main jet because of the needle position, right? Also, for people jetting with the stock needle, they tend to use larger jets, say a 150 main, to achieve a setting close the same fuel mixture at close to full and full throttle as you would achieve by lowering the clip on a smaller needle and using a proportianally smaller main. Is there a way to tell this proportion, or what main I would have to use to achieve-with a stock needle psotion-the same main jetting as a dynojet needle, fourth clip and 140 main? Are there mixture settings I can achieve with a needle adjustment and smaller or larger mains that I can't achieve by staying at the fourth clip and messing around with the main? examples: MikuniBSR 36 on Drz400s bike1) stock fuel screw,stock needle and clip position, 27.5 pilot, 150 main bike2) extended screw 3 turns, dynojet needle fourth clip, 25 pilot, 140 main bike3) extended fuel screw 3 turns, dynojet needle fifth clip, stock pilot, 136 main Which bike is actually richer in the main, why, and how can you tell place a proportion to it? This may be confusing as all hell, so I apologize.
  15. Is this little screw in the airbox side of the BSR an air screw? If not, what does it do?