Billahjack

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Billahjack last won the day on December 15 2008

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About Billahjack

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  1. Thanks, that would be great. I was trying to find something off the shelf but i know a couple machinists. The ohlins unit has a post attached to the arm on the damper body. This post is too short for my bike where it attaches to the bearing race anchor due to the taller top clamp. I didn't think to check the thread engagement of the body attach nut to the steer stem post.
  2. How old is the bike, how many hours? One of my friends had a 2007 exc and it blew blue smoke every time he crashed. Some sort of breather tube was feeding oil into the intake. It would go away after a about 5 minutes. If its always blowing smoke then I agree with the others.
  3. I had an ohlins 2.0 steering stabilizer on my 530EXC with the stock cast triple clamps. Then i installed the KTM billet clamps. The new clamps are too tall for the post on the stabilizer to engage into the bracket on the top of the steer tube. Anyone have a suggestion? I'd hate to sell it after sinking so much money into it. Also, its a pain to install the steer tube bracket due to pressing out the top bearing race. Thanks
  4. Try kicking over a cr500 or wr426 then your 530 should feel a little easier. To be serious, sometimes i use the electric start and kick start at the same time if it doesn't have enough juice to start on battery alone.
  5. If you ride track style bikes then 505. If you ride trails type bikes then 525. Get the 525 properly desmogged and jetted or it will be a pain.
  6. I have the 08 530 EXC (well tuned), XR650R (few goodies) and the 96 WR250. It's no contest with even starts, the KTM beats. I haven't ridden a new YZ250. Racing against my buddies on various bikes, its all about the launch. Gotta thrash the clutch letting it out to the friction point while holding the brakes in 2nd until the start, then launch, leaning forward feathing the clutch. If done correctly, the launch will win the race nearly every time. How's your tire bite? I ripped every other knob off my 650r on a street drag once. It was a good launch on a cheap tire. Good luck on the next drags....sounds fun!
  7. Did anyone grab a copy of that chart from the Scottsworld link? Its inactive now. Thanks!
  8. ohh, forgot to say.... KTM needs 13L gas tank, hand guards, new blinker/light switch (so yu can put the clutch lever at the correct position), new tires if you buy a street legal on (the 6-days tires absolutely suck). That raises the cost a bit, but they are things that go on many bikes.
  9. I have the 2001 CA plated XR650R and the 2008 KTM530EXC. I rarely ride the XR650R now. The last time I rode it was when I had a flat on the KTM after 15 mins of riding around the neighborhood so I swapped to the XR to complete the ride for the day. No issues with the KTM yet and it has about 1100 miles. The 530EXC is very similar to the 450EXC. The main difference is the 530 makes torque down lower so you don't have to rev it as much. Its my opinion that the 530's will last longer because of this. BTW, the 530 is faster than my XR650R. It also wheelies way easier, bottoms less. KTM 530EXC - stock suspension, powershot accelerator pump, rejet and stock muffler mod. 14/50 sprockets. Ohlins 2.0 steering stabilizer (necessary for high speed offroad!) XR650R - ESP suspension (valves/springs), Moriwaki exhaust, HRC cam, rejet on the stock carb, side panel cutout, 14/48 sprockets, no stabilizer.
  10. Post your cam on the classifieds here! I sold my stage 2 there.
  11. I'm guessing all models are nikasil. That has been around for nearly a couple decades at Honda. I use the stock carb. I miss out on a little low end bog but I get used to just rolling on smooth versus snapping the throttle open if the motor is at low RPM's. You have a clutch too....if you really want to wind it up and spin the tire. The $600 or so for the FCR conversion isn't worth it for me yet. The accelerator pump lets you snap it open without bog....well I'm comparing my KTM to my honda in this case.
  12. I found that the bigger cam mellowed out the bottom end while increasing the power on top producing crazy wheel spin above 5-6k rpm on trails. With throttle moderation, I thought it was mellower while providing more top end and smiles.
  13. the HRC kit has 11:1 compression. You should be ok on 92 octane or higher. I'm not sure how california 91 octane works. An aftermarket exhaust system is recommended with the HRC kit as far as additional upgrade requirements. From what I have seen, servicehonda has a pretty good deal on the HRC kit. The HRC cam retains the stock auto-decompression mechanism so its not that bad to start. I have heard reports that the HRC kit is less reliable when operating the bike on or near the rev limiter for long durations (such as pinning the bike for hours on end on a Baja race). If you only hit that RPM range for brief periods, then I don't think you will see a difference in engine durability/longevity. Some people are just going a cheaper upgrade route with a 11:1 wiseco and a Hotcams stage 2. It has similar results but the hotcam loses the stock auto-decompressor. The HRC kit includes a special $40 spark plug and new timing gear drive with a thicker cam chain, new sprockets new guides and the required gaskets. It also has some stiffer clutch springs which helps for your clutch life. One note is that the HRC kit has different cam clocking meaning that you need to purchase the HRC cam and drive system or find a way to advance the HRC cam with the stock drive systme about 5 degrees to achieve the same result. The HRC kit takes care of this, but keep it in mind if you decide to just buy the HRC cam without the entire kit. The hotcam does not have these timing issues and is a drop-in with the stock cam drive system. I installed a mikuni on my bike. It had great bottom end response but had less top end power than the stock carb. I returned the carb because it was a pain to get alternate jets for tuning and I lost top end power. If you are going to go through the trouble of using a different carb, I would strongly suggest the Keihin FCR-MX series such as the 41MM or an overbored 41MM to 43mm if you run high compression with a cam and aftermarket exhaust. This carb requires adapters such as the kit from sudco. It also requires fuel tank modification using a heat gun to make clearance for the taller carb design. The adjustibility of the FCR-MX is close to that of fuel injection because you can adjust the accelerator pump/leak jet circuit in addition to the standard needle, main, slow jets of the stock carb. You can also adjust the FCR carbs on the fly without teardown with some aftermarket parts such as an idle screw modification and a leak jet/accelerator pump modification.
  14. I disconnect the link for the carb slide when removing the needle. I lift the slide, unhook the spring with a pick, small screwdriver or something similar and then slide the linkage off of the pegs. Then I remove the needle. I can do this without removing the carb, I just loosen the throttle cables and carb boot hose clamps then rotate it over to the side far enough to access all the top screws. I can do the same to remove the float bowl on the bottom. Watch the float pin at the hinge. It can slide out if you start fiddling with the float with the carb tipped sideways.
  15. 68s slow jet = 99105-MBN-0680 B53E Needle & Seat = 16012-MBN-641 note: B53D is stock.