djchan

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About djchan

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

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  • Location
    Maine
  • Interests
    woodworking
  1. Thanks mog. Guess I'll make a wooden jig for my vice and use a long breaker bar somehow. Maybe I can save it and maybe not. The forks is good for nothing right now so if I save it - great. If not I'll sell the other fork as a single or for parts. edit: Hey mog - is that grub screw just above the axle slot on the front of the end block? If so, it's already gone. Couldn;t see anything else that loooked like a set screw or a hole for a set screw. Half the battle...
  2. Put a set in my 43mm WPs last summer and they went in very nicely. Greatly reduced stiction. Yours must be mismarked, or you have 46mm forks instaed of 47s.
  3. I have an old set of KLX300 (KYB USD) forks pulled apart for a little maintenance. I'm unable to pull the inner tube out from the upper tube as the PO damaged the outer tube in a sever getoff. The outer tube has a large ding at the lower end. So much so that the inner tube/bussings/washer simply won't com out through the bottom of the outer tube. My only alternative is to pull the axle block off the lower tube and push the inner tube/bushings/washer all the way through the upper portion of the outer tube. Then I plan to use an exhaust pipe expander to see if I can't true out the lower end of the outer tube and make it useable again. So, my question is - how do I remove that axle block from the end of the inner tube? I know it comes off because people have their tubes rechromed all the time. Is it just a friction fit? Do I need to heat the axle block and use the axle as a "breaker bar" for leverage? In case you're wondering, there has been no damage to the inner tube at all and the damage at the lower end of the outer tube only affects the fit of the dust seal. That's why I'm trying to save it. Thanks in advance
  4. Arkvard - you need to remove the fork from the triples. Turn it upside down and reveal the socket drive - IIRC 14mm. Use an airgun to remove the entire base valve from the bottom. Only way to break it loose as far as I know.
  5. For some reason I can't PM you. How much for the cylinder/piston and the header/silencer? Thanks
  6. Thanks Padgett.
  7. Here's a pic of the rest of the bike - bottom end is sitting in the cradle. So how much would Millenium or another plating company charge (rough) for the welding/replating? As you can see the bike also needs handlebars and rear fender - both lost in the piston-grenade incident. Minor issues. I'd really like to try the Showa suspenders.
  8. Here's a pic the owner was kind enough to send. The owner is very knowledgeable and recommended against sleeving as well. He already replaced the entire crank. New big-end bearings. Based on the picture above - is this cylinder weldable or does this degree of damage require an all new cylinder? Thanks again for the help.
  9. Thanks dtha70. Approx how much does this cost? I'm trying to decide if I want to take the project on. I looked on NADA and the avg retail for a 2004 RM250 is only $1500. I was a little shocked. I assumed it was valued around $2K. I don't have a lot of wiggle room here if it'll costs $500 for a new cylinder or $500 for cylinder work. Plus I still need a piston kit, so there you have $1600 AND TIME into a $1500 bike. I like to ride - not wrench. Cost of cylinder rework will dictate what I can offer for the bike. Thanks again
  10. There's a 2004 RM250 nearby that suffered a piston grenade. The owner has totally rebuilt the bottom end but lacks the $$$ for the topend. Want's $1000. I haven't seen the bike yet - I'm assuming the cylinder is in good enough condition to sleeve. Obviously, I'd need a new piston kit as well. Owner says the head is fine. My question for the collective - I see (on ebay) some sleeves for 2004 cylinders. One of the mfr's says he can install the sleeve ($90) for an extra $125. Is that a fair price or would that service be available locally for less? I've never needed a resleeve, so I have no idea. Also, what conditions would render the cylinder useless for sleeving and require an all new cylinder? Thanks in advance
  11. I'm looking to swap my 01 Suzuki Bandit 1200 for a 2007 KLX250. Big drop in HPs, but I have a newer FI'd Bandit for that. I'll likely be using it at higher elevations - say 8000' or so above sea level. For those of you who ride high elevations in, say, Colorado - how does the KLX250 work out for you? Obviously, I'll jet it for the higher e's. May add a Bill Blue 351 as well. Another question. If I'm riding in 3rd world conditions (like Mexico or South America) subject to poor gas - how does the KLX handle it? Muchas Gracias in advance.
  12. Thanks for the info. It is the 350S or dualsport model. Still, why the battery - can't the stator run all the goods? So, even running welll - you still have an issue with the hotstarts? Is it the CV carb? Does the pumper carb have the same issue? Thanks again.
  13. Thanks JHawins. I also set the float height. I don't have a measurement in front of me so I just set it to be parallel with the carb body (with the spring not compressed). When I first saw the bike - we could start it up (cold) but it had a much harder time starting when it was hot. Also, did not need to be choked for a cold start. Led me to believe it was running very rich but I never checked the plug. When I first checked the fuel screw it was maybe 3.5 turns out, so I guessed I should turn the fuel screw in to 1.5 turns. That's when it wouldn't start at all. So I cleaned te bejebus out of the carb today. And set the float height. Hopefully that'll do the trick. Does the battery need to be charged to kickstart the bike? Could a bad kickstand switch or clutch switch prevent the starting? and, BTW - why a battery on a kickstart only bike? I'm recommending that 10 pound anchor be replaced by the capacitor mod. I think the owner will like that.
  14. I'm tearing down my friends carb trying to figure out why it doesn't run. I thought it would have wildly bad jetting and the stock petcock, but... ....I don't have it in front of me but I think the petcock on the bike is the Raptor660 petcock. I don't remember a vacuum port on the back. ....The carb has the vacuum port (rt side and angled forward) IS blocked. ....The exhaust is stock. ....The jetting is 37.5/135 which may be WRONG for the 91 model. If I read this forum correctly, a 91 should be jetted 37.5/127.5 if no exhaust/airbox mods have been performed. ....Once again, the bike is not in front of me, so I don't know if the airbox has been modded or not. ....There appear to be no mods to the BST33 CV carb. In the past, I've drilled the slide air holes and shortened the spring for quicker response. Is this not performed for a DR350? My immediate questions are: Would the 135 main jet be appropriate for a totally stock 91 model or even for a modded airbox. Seems like the jump from 127.5 is way too much. Should I be modifying the slide for response? If the airbox is opened up - should the pilot jet jump from 37.5 to 40? Thanks in advance.
  15. The suggestion of the RMX brings up a good question. I've seen several references to the 96-98 conventional forks being superior to the previous generation of inverted forks. Any comments? Remember I'm looking for plush on the trails - not MX. Did Suzuki note issues with the earlier model (89-95 IIRC) inverted forks?