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Rob_in_Madison_WI

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About Rob_in_Madison_WI

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  1. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    New carb for '98 WR 400?

    My '98 sutis me fine except for one thing... It is a bear to start. I was wondering if anyone has replaced the carb with one from a later model WR to improve engine starting. I've already changed the pilot jet and needle and it runs stronger but I still would like it to start easier. My real issue is cold starts after it has sat for a while. Once warmed up it will start no problem. Many thanks!! Rob
  2. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    Carb Plate from Factory R&D

    Anyone tried this piece that supposedly reduces the amount of fuel being pumped into the motor eliminating the hesitation off idle when the throttle is wicked open? $74 is a lot of money for such a small piece but if it works it may be worth it. These folks also claim the engine pulls harder with the decreased fuel flow in the squirt. Also, any good recommendations on replacement air filters? I've been looking at the DT One. Thanks. Rob
  3. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    Secret passage?

    I was just on the Aussie site 400Thumpers and noticed a comment made on the '98 WR400 carb. The article referenced some sort of passage inside the carb that was reworked for the 99 and later models. It said it corrected a problem known with the '98 carb. Anyone know anything about this? Rob
  4. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    I have a theory on all this plug fouling...

    To answer Howard, I think it is just wet with gas when it fouls. That begs another question: do you think this stockpile of CR8E plugs I've amassed can be reused? I've always not wanted to temp fate and slapped a new plug in. Sandblasting recommended before reuse? Also, what about going to a hotter heat range? I'm too scared of making a very expensive short skirted ash tray to give that one a try. Then again, maybe I won't have to worry about our favorite topic anymore. One can hope! Rob
  5. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    Resetting the Odo

    Mark, See my post "knuckle relief" on 11/6 regarding your question. Looks like some other folks came up with the same idea. Must be either a case of "great minds think alike" or patent infringement! Rob
  6. First of all, many thanks to James and Clark for your suggestions to my WR starting/fouling woes. I have a 98 WR400 with WB E series, tapered head pipe, air box top removed, YZ timing. I was running the DTM #4, 45PJ, 2 turns, 162MJ and I was regularly fouling plugs. I have now gone to the DVP#4, 48PJ, 1.25 turns, 172MJ and it seems to run great. I still want to try a #5 clip with a larger MJ. Thanks Clark and James for your help, I'm finally enjoying my ride!!! Anyway, here is my theory... I've noticed I would foul plugs shortly after starting the engine. The last time it happened I just got all suited up and started to head out and on came the snarling and poping. My theory is these carbs shoot an unbelievable amount of fuel once the throttle is opened, and could it be this stream of fuel are heading into a cold cylinder and plug with no hope of vaporizing. I was quite impressed with the distance that stream shot when I had my carb off to do my changes. So, lately I have been going with a new procedure by starting it and letting it idle just long enough on choke until it will idle on its own with the choke off. I then let it sit and idle until the cylinder head is quite warm to the touch and only then get into the accelerator pump. Maybe we're getting a bit anxious with these "squirter" carbs (never had one before!) So far, no fouled plugs! Any thoughts???
  7. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    Knuckle Relief

    Anyone out there find it a pain to reset the trip odometer after you've racked up major miles on it? My knuckles and wrist kept telling me there must be a better way... Here's a tip that worked like a champ. Find a 3-4 inch piece of 3/4" tubing (I used a piece of thick clear plastic but garden hose may work too). Push a rubber 3/4" sanding disc mandrel in one end of the hose and attach it to a drill. Slip the other end over the knob on the odometer, pull the knob (with the hose attached to it) away from the odometer so it will adjust mileage, set the drill in reverse and spin away. I took 100 miles off in about 20 seconds. I offer this suggestion at the risk of someone smarter than I telling me to press this button or do this other thing and instantly reset the odometer. If there is such a feature, I sure haven't found it yet!
  8. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    Will the real DVP step forward??

    Thanks Moto Mike, James Dean, Boit and Hart for responding to my earlier post regarding my plug fouling issues and hard starting. From your info it seems like I should go back to at least a 168 main and a slightly leaner needle, the DVP. After reading another post I learned that the micro fiche info was incorrect so I decided to check what my dealer had on order for me. Again, I have a 98 WR with YZ cam timing, WB tapered headpipe, E series muffler W/ 8 discs, 162 main, stock needle and clip position, stock pilot, fuel screw at 1 3/4. Heres my question: The dealer has ordered a DVP needle from a 2000 YZ Yamaha part no. 5JG-14916-DP. Clark references a DVP needle with a Yamaha part no. of 5BE-14916-DP in his "high altitute jetting" article in this site. Which is correct? I read another post where someone put a DVP needle in his WR and it fouled plugs. Someone else challenged the Yamaha part no. So, gang, which is correct? As always, thanks for your help. Aside from the fouled plugs and hard starting, I love this machine and am excited (through all of your help)I am finally zeroing in on its quirks! Rob
  9. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    Persnickity WR 400

    James, Thanks for all of your suggestions. I have owned the bike since new and am sure everything in the carb is stock except for the main jet change and I have changed the mixture screw (bottom of carb next to main -- not sure of exact name) setting from 2 1/2 turns out to 1 3/4 turns. I'll look at the plug to see how it looks and make the clip change. Hey, at least the thing runs without fouling plugs. My right knee and bottom of my right foot are much happier! Rob
  10. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    Persnickity WR 400

    Boit, No, I have not seen any smoke except when I first start it. Then it smokes a bit when the choke is on. In this case the smoke is black from running on choke. Also, I am not using any oil to speak of...a good thing since there is not much to lose! I think I'll go back to the stock 168 main and try changing the clip position to the next leaner setting. Thanks! Rob
  11. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    Persnickity WR 400

    Mike, thanks for your advice. I'll look into the clip setting. I have not changed that from stock. I agree my 162 sounds lean compared to other settings I've read about here but the bike ran the best it ever has last weekend. No, I didn't make it to the Madison enduro as I promised a friend I would take his son riding on his KDX 80. He wanted to give the enduro a try but I talked him out of it as he is new to riding and I thought it would be a bit much for him. Anyway, I'll try the clip change. Thanks, Rob
  12. Rob_in_Madison_WI

    Persnickity WR 400

    Hi folks, Glad I discovered this forum. May keep me from going KTM. Here is my issue: I've had my '98 WR 400 for a few years now and have always seemed to have starting problems. Lately it seems to be fouling spark plugs right and left. I've got a WB E series pipe with a tapered head pipe, 8 discs, stock air filter, no baffle. My cam timing is set to YZ spec. My spark plugs were always wet and black. I've now gone to a 162 main jet and my mixture screw set at 1 3/4 turns and it seems to run better. I try to keep the air filter with minimum oil coating. Question: Why does this thing run so rich? Sure wish I could solve this issue cause starting it has been a nightmere on anything but a fresh plug. And we know how much fun that can be every ride! Any help would be most appreciated. Thank you very much. Rob
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